supporting new fruit trees
 

This weekend I bought and planted four short fruit trees. The trunks are at
the moment about 75 cms long before branching starts. Should'nt the stakes
just be a bit longer than the trunk? (I am worried about damaging the
branches as they chafe against the stake.)
The tree-seller (reputable) tried to sell me 2 meter stakes but I didn't
feel that was right.
What's the best thing to do?
Robert

supporting new fruit trees
 

This weekend I bought and planted four short fruit trees. The trunks are at
the moment about 75 cms long before branching starts. Should'nt the stakes
just be a bit longer than the trunk? (I am worried about damaging the
branches as they chafe against the stake.)
The tree-seller (reputable) tried to sell me 2 meter stakes but I didn't
feel that was right.
What's the best thing to do?
Robert


It's not clear from what you've said exactly how large/tall the trees are, but
I'll try to give you some general advice that will suit most, if not all
circumstances/situations.

It's best to stake trees using a stake driven in at about 45 degrees so that it
avoids the tree roots. The tree trunk should then be tied to the stake in such
a way as to avoid chaffing. This can be done by wraping the tie round the
stake, then crossing the tie over before securing the tie around the trunk. In
essence you're creating a figure of eight with the stake in one circle of the
eight, and the tree trunk in the other. The crossing point of the tie acts as
a buffer between the tree and stake.

Another method is to use two or more stakes, though from what I can guess this
probably isn't suitable for your trees, but applies to larger ones. The stakes
are driven into the ground some way from the tree's root-ball so as to avoid
any damage. Ties are then attached to the tree, usually with rubber (or a
similar material) used to prevent the tie from cutting into the tree trunk.
Imagine a strong wire cable with a loop going around the trunk but with the
loop surrounded by a short length of rubber/plastic hosepipe and you have the
right idea.

The main problem with staking trees is that the trees actually grow weaker with
staking. They 'come to rely on the stakes for support' (though not in any
emotional sense you understand). Basically, tree trunks become stronger
through flexing in the wind. If you're going to stake trees, it's best to
stake them in such a way that the tie you use to secure them to the stake(s)
allows some movement so that the tree will grow a strong trunk. It will save a
whole load of heartache later on. Old stockings/tights are a good material to
use, and the way most women seem to go through them there should be a good
supply around somewhere just waiting to be used.

I hope this is helpful and that I haven't made any stupid mistakes, left
anything obvious out, or have made too many (if any) spelling mistakes. Best
of luck with the trees!

Dave.

supporting new fruit trees
 

On Mon, 25 Nov 2002 20:40:36 +0000, DaveDay34 wrote:

This weekend I bought and planted four short fruit trees. The trunks are at
the moment about 75 cms long before branching starts. Should'nt the stakes
just be a bit longer than the trunk? (I am worried about damaging the
branches as they chafe against the stake.)
The tree-seller (reputable) tried to sell me 2 meter stakes but I didn't
feel that was right.
What's the best thing to do?
Robert


It's not clear from what you've said exactly how large/tall the trees are, but
I'll try to give you some general advice that will suit most, if not all
circumstances/situations.

Robert,

Further to Dave's excellent general advice, I'd just like to add if you
have bought fruit trees on dwarfing or very dwarfing root stock, they will
need a traditional vertical stake. The height of this stake should be the
height of the main stem, to or just a smidge below / above the place where
all the branches start coming out. If the branches are widely spaced around
the trunk, you may be able to get a longer stake in.

Don't forget you need to bury approx 1 - 2 ft / 1/3rd of its general
length of the stake so as to give it good support so it can support the
tree!

BTW, it is nearly always easiest to dig the hole, knock the stake in, and
*then* plant the tree - it saves breaking roots and disturbing the tree
later.

Don't forget to water your trees in well, and keep doing so while they
establish (though don't let them freeze!) - and water generously next
spring and summer.

HTH, Sarah
(NB - I planted new fruit trees last autumn)

supporting new fruit trees
 

Thank you Dave and Sarah, you seem to confirm my misgivings: that a long
stake, although often spoken about and shown in books, is not what is
needed.
The reason for the stake I thought was to keep the roots undisturbed while
the tree "takes"; what it should not do is damage the branches (this was my
concern).
Thus short, sturdy, deep in the ground and carefully banded to the tree's
trunk.
I planted the trees exactly as Sarah recommended - very easy, even on your
own.
BTW The trees are dwarf, about 85 cms trunks and a bit over 2 meters overall
in height.

Robert

"Sarah Dale" wrote in message
o.uk...
On Mon, 25 Nov 2002 20:40:36 +0000, DaveDay34 wrote:

This weekend I bought and planted four short fruit trees. The trunks
are at
the moment about 75 cms long before branching starts. Should'nt the
stakes
just be a bit longer than the trunk? (I am worried about damaging the
branches as they chafe against the stake.)
The tree-seller (reputable) tried to sell me 2 meter stakes but I didn't
feel that was right.
What's the best thing to do?
Robert


It's not clear from what you've said exactly how large/tall the trees
are, but
I'll try to give you some general advice that will suit most, if not all
circumstances/situations.

Robert,

Further to Dave's excellent general advice, I'd just like to add if you
have bought fruit trees on dwarfing or very dwarfing root stock, they will
need a traditional vertical stake. The height of this stake should be the
height of the main stem, to or just a smidge below / above the place where
all the branches start coming out. If the branches are widely spaced
around
the trunk, you may be able to get a longer stake in.

Don't forget you need to bury approx 1 - 2 ft / 1/3rd of its general
length of the stake so as to give it good support so it can support the
tree!

BTW, it is nearly always easiest to dig the hole, knock the stake in, and
*then* plant the tree - it saves breaking roots and disturbing the tree
later.

Don't forget to water your trees in well, and keep doing so while they
establish (though don't let them freeze!) - and water generously next
spring and summer.

HTH, Sarah
(NB - I planted new fruit trees last autumn)

supporting new fruit trees
 

In message , Robert Simpson
writes
Thank you Dave and Sarah, you seem to confirm my misgivings: that a long
stake, although often spoken about and shown in books, is not what is
needed.

Indeed, commonsense indicates that any length of stake above the point
where the tree is or will be tied to serves no purpose at all anyway.
--
Chris French and Helen Johnson, Leeds
urg Suppliers and References FAQ:
http://www.familyfrench.co.uk/garden/urgfaq/index.html