Concrete fence
 

The timber fence at the bottom of my garden backs onto a public footpath and
is on its last legs now due to being kicked and pulled apart by passing
swines.

The best solution I can think of that's cheap and vandal-proof and will
provide instant privacy is a concrete fence. It'll only need to be about
20' x 6', and I can grow loads of big shrubs in front to disguise it.

Two questions:

a) I've seen concrete posts/gravelboards at Wickes and other places. But
where can I get the concrete panels?
b) Should this be a reasonably simple DIY job?

Cheers all.

(p.s. just email me if you'd like a gmail invite)

a) I've seen concrete posts/gravelboards at Wickes and other places. But
where can I get the concrete panels?
b) Should this be a reasonably simple DIY job?

Should be a concrete manufacturer somewhere near you. The one here makes the
posts and panels on site. Often have 'seconds' which just means that a bit
of a corner is missing. They make a good sturdy fence. If you didn't have
the vandalism problem, concrete panels at ground level with timber fence
panels resting on top between the slotted concrete posts, looks nicer.
DaveK.

In article ,
"davek" writes:
|
| a) I've seen concrete posts/gravelboards at Wickes and other places. But
| where can I get the concrete panels?
| b) Should this be a reasonably simple DIY job?
|
| Should be a concrete manufacturer somewhere near you. The one here makes the
| posts and panels on site. Often have 'seconds' which just means that a bit
| of a corner is missing. They make a good sturdy fence. If you didn't have
| the vandalism problem, concrete panels at ground level with timber fence
| panels resting on top between the slotted concrete posts, looks nicer.

Watch out for the weight, though. Concrete panels need to be thick
enough to have some strength and concrete weighs about 2300 Kg/m^3.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

"Nick Maclaren" wrote in message
...

In article ,
"davek" writes:
|
| a) I've seen concrete posts/gravelboards at Wickes and other places.
But
| where can I get the concrete panels?
| b) Should this be a reasonably simple DIY job?
|
| Should be a concrete manufacturer somewhere near you. The one here
makes the
| posts and panels on site. Often have 'seconds' which just means that a
bit
| of a corner is missing. They make a good sturdy fence. If you didn't
have
| the vandalism problem, concrete panels at ground level with timber
fence
| panels resting on top between the slotted concrete posts, looks nicer.

Watch out for the weight, though. Concrete panels need to be thick
enough to have some strength and concrete weighs about 2300 Kg/m^3.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

Ones I have seen are a series of T&G concrete planks that slide down slots
in the posts, it would still take a couple of strong bodies to lift them
into situ but at least they wont rot or get broken by people kicking them
(likely to cost a lot more though)
--
Charlie, gardening in Cornwall.
http://www.roselandhouse.co.uk
Holders of National Plant Collection of Clematis viticella (cvs)

concrete gravel boards are used for the fence panels,but I have never seen
them 6 foot high before!
The weight could be a problem on a long run,you can put loads of concrete
around the posts but if the ground around that is soft, the weight/wind will
gradually work the ground loose.I have seen this happen with concrete posts
& close board fence which runs along the boundary of a allotment .The fence
is very ,very long & it has only been in for about 1 year.You can see that
long sections have started to lean over already.
--
Thanks Keith,England,UK.
"Nick Maclaren" wrote in message
...

In article ,
"davek" writes:
|
| a) I've seen concrete posts/gravelboards at Wickes and other places.
But
| where can I get the concrete panels?
| b) Should this be a reasonably simple DIY job?
|
| Should be a concrete manufacturer somewhere near you. The one here
makes the
| posts and panels on site. Often have 'seconds' which just means that a
bit
| of a corner is missing. They make a good sturdy fence. If you didn't
have
| the vandalism problem, concrete panels at ground level with timber
fence
| panels resting on top between the slotted concrete posts, looks nicer.

Watch out for the weight, though. Concrete panels need to be thick
enough to have some strength and concrete weighs about 2300 Kg/m^3.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

In article ,
"keith ;-\)" writes:
| concrete gravel boards are used for the fence panels,but I have never seen
| them 6 foot high before!

I have, but I have no idea how thick they were.

| The weight could be a problem on a long run,you can put loads of concrete
| around the posts but if the ground around that is soft, the weight/wind will
| gradually work the ground loose.I have seen this happen with concrete posts
| & close board fence which runs along the boundary of a allotment .The fence
| is very ,very long & it has only been in for about 1 year.You can see that
| long sections have started to lean over already.

Putting loads of concrete around shallowly embedded posts is a
cowboy's trick - it is cheap but doesn't work. The solution is
to embed them deeper.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

On 18 Jan 2005 18:05:17 GMT, (Nick Maclaren) wrote:


Putting loads of concrete around shallowly embedded posts is a
cowboy's trick - it is cheap but doesn't work. The solution is
to embed them deeper.

Yes, if they're deep enough in suitable ground and the soil is rammed
properly a bit at a time as you fill the hole you don't need concrete
at all. I had a tilt-over antenna tower 18 metres high with heavy
antennas on top and that was mounted on a ground post with 1.8 metres
buried in our boulder clay subsoil - it never moved in the several
years it was installed here despite gales that destroyed the antennas
on several occasions..

=================================================

Rod

Weed my email address to reply.
http://website.lineone.net/~rodcraddock/index.html

"Nick Maclaren" wrote in message
...

In article ,
"keith ;-\)" writes:
| concrete gravel boards are used for the fence panels,but I have never
seen
| them 6 foot high before!

I have, but I have no idea how thick they were.

I assumed the gravelboards were just intended for going along the bottom of
timber fences. The ones from Wickes are 6' long and 6" high and, at 10 quid
each, it'd be 120 quid per 6' square section. I've since found these guys
on the web (http://www.rocfencing.co.uk/concrete.htm) and they look like
really good value. Could do a 6' square section for under 20 quid, although
the weight is a bit scary at 250-400 kilos.

| The weight could be a problem on a long run,you can put loads of
concrete
| around the posts but if the ground around that is soft, the weight/wind
will
| gradually work the ground loose.I have seen this happen with concrete
posts
| & close board fence which runs along the boundary of a allotment .The
fence
| is very ,very long & it has only been in for about 1 year.You can see
that
| long sections have started to lean over already.

Putting loads of concrete around shallowly embedded posts is a
cowboy's trick - it is cheap but doesn't work. The solution is
to embed them deeper.

2 feet underground for an 8 foot post, right? Or, considering we're talking
about heavy concrete, would it be better to go to 2 and a half?

cheers guys,
G.A.

Glen Able wrote:
"Nick Maclaren" wrote in message
...

In article ,
"keith ;-\)" writes:
concrete gravel boards are used for the fence panels,but I have
never seen them 6 foot high before!

I have, but I have no idea how thick they were.

I assumed the gravelboards were just intended for going along the
bottom of timber fences. The ones from Wickes are 6' long and 6"
high and, at 10 quid each, it'd be 120 quid per 6' square section.
I've since found these guys on the web
(http://www.rocfencing.co.uk/concrete.htm) and they look like
really
good value. Could do a 6' square section for under 20 quid,
although
the weight is a bit scary at 250-400 kilos.

The weight could be a problem on a long run,you can put loads of
concrete around the posts but if the ground around that is soft,
the weight/wind will gradually work the ground loose.I have seen
this happen with concrete posts & close board fence which runs
along the boundary of a allotment .The fence is very ,very long
&
it has only been in for about 1 year.You can see that long
sections have started to lean over already.

Putting loads of concrete around shallowly embedded posts is a
cowboy's trick - it is cheap but doesn't work. The solution is
to embed them deeper.

2 feet underground for an 8 foot post, right? Or, considering
we're
talking about heavy concrete, would it be better to go to 2 and a
half?

Depending on the subsoil, I'd intuitively go for three foot. A fence
is pretty well a straight line, so unlike a house there wouldn't be
any part of the structure supporting at right angles. A block wall
with buttresses might turn out to be cheaper in the long run. If the
*******s don't kick it down before the mortar's gone off.

Why don't we consider a strained wire netting fence on concrete posts
for the outside, with anything you fancy which costs little and looks
nice on the safe side? I'm a supporter of public footpaths on
principle, but this is the real world, so it would hardly be your
fault if half a dozen Himalayan Giant brambles unkindly chose to
establish themselves and grow into a homicidal tip-rooting thicket on
the public side. After all, you only planted them to cover up the
ugliness of the netting fence, and give passers-by a few tasty
charitable berries in due season. If the Council wanted to come along
with a bit of weedkiller, well, you'd still have a kick-proof fence;
and there'd be seeds in the ground by then anyhow.

Mike.

"Mike Lyle" wrote in message
...

Depending on the subsoil, I'd intuitively go for three foot. A fence
is pretty well a straight line, so unlike a house there wouldn't be
any part of the structure supporting at right angles. A block wall
with buttresses might turn out to be cheaper in the long run. If the
*******s don't kick it down before the mortar's gone off.

Why don't we consider a strained wire netting fence on concrete posts
for the outside, with anything you fancy which costs little and looks
nice on the safe side? I'm a supporter of public footpaths on
principle, but this is the real world, so it would hardly be your
fault if half a dozen Himalayan Giant brambles unkindly chose to
establish themselves and grow into a homicidal tip-rooting thicket on
the public side. After all, you only planted them to cover up the
ugliness of the netting fence, and give passers-by a few tasty
charitable berries in due season. If the Council wanted to come along
with a bit of weedkiller, well, you'd still have a kick-proof fence;
and there'd be seeds in the ground by then anyhow.

Mike.

I like your thinking :) It's interesting to look at the 30-or-so houses
that back onto the footpath to see what my neighbours have done. There's a
couple of breeze block walls, some chain link fences and a few good laurel
or privet hedges, with added spiky surprises. A few innovative types have
used enormous sheets (up to 8' high) of some kind of hardboard.

Perhaps an actual wall is the best option after all. I really want the
instant privacy from wandering toerags and something that's pretty permanent
so I can plant a nice thick mass in front of it and not have to worry about
having to leave access for repairs.

Could anyone give me a rough clue of how much I'd have to pay for a 20' x 6'
invincible block wall. (Don't forget to add 30% near-Oxford tax :)

cheers again,
G.A.

In article ,
Glen Able wrote:

Putting loads of concrete around shallowly embedded posts is a
cowboy's trick - it is cheap but doesn't work. The solution is
to embed them deeper.

2 feet underground for an 8 foot post, right? Or, considering we're talking
about heavy concrete, would it be better to go to 2 and a half?

More like 3-4'. No, I am not joking.

In my light soil, I tend to use 1/3 of the height - this allows me
to dig around the posts without running the risk of bringing them
down. But that is only wire and netting for creepers. Concrete,
which will catch the wind as well as be ruddy heavy, needs a LOT
more support. Remember that, if it falls over and kills someone,
you could be facing a large legal bill.

Your idea of getting a suitable block wall built sounds better to
me - ask for a few quotes from smallish, but permanent, builders.
Ignore anyone with only a mobile telephone and less than 5 years'
worth of recommendations from people you know.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

Who mentioned putting concrete around shallow dug holes?

--
Thanks Keith,England,UK.
"Nick Maclaren" wrote in message
...

In article ,
"keith ;-\)" writes:
| concrete gravel boards are used for the fence panels,but I have never
seen
| them 6 foot high before!

I have, but I have no idea how thick they were.

| The weight could be a problem on a long run,you can put loads of
concrete
| around the posts but if the ground around that is soft, the weight/wind
will
| gradually work the ground loose.I have seen this happen with concrete
posts
| & close board fence which runs along the boundary of a allotment .The
fence
| is very ,very long & it has only been in for about 1 year.You can see
that
| long sections have started to lean over already.

Putting loads of concrete around shallowly embedded posts is a
cowboy's trick - it is cheap but doesn't work. The solution is
to embed them deeper.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

"Charlie Pridham" wrote in message
...

"Nick Maclaren" wrote in message
...

In article ,
"davek" writes:
|
| a) I've seen concrete posts/gravelboards at Wickes and other
places.
But
| where can I get the concrete panels?
| b) Should this be a reasonably simple DIY job?
|
| Should be a concrete manufacturer somewhere near you. The one here
makes the
| posts and panels on site. Often have 'seconds' which just means that
a
bit
| of a corner is missing. They make a good sturdy fence. If you didn't
have
| the vandalism problem, concrete panels at ground level with timber
fence
| panels resting on top between the slotted concrete posts, looks
nicer.

Watch out for the weight, though. Concrete panels need to be thick
enough to have some strength and concrete weighs about 2300 Kg/m^3.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

Ones I have seen are a series of T&G concrete planks that slide down
slots
in the posts, it would still take a couple of strong bodies to lift them
into situ but at least they wont rot or get broken by people kicking them
(likely to cost a lot more though)

I have seen a person who used to suffer frequent vandalisation damage to
timber panels in his fence (which had grooved concrete posts) simply replace
the timber fence sections with concrete 'gravel boards' slotted in, one
above the other, to the required height. That must have been about four or
five years ago, and no damage has been evident in that time, so it works OK.

You can do it

Get 9' slotted posts and hire an auger to keep the hole as narrow as
possible concrete all the way down and ensure the bottom gravel boards
are supported across their full length by a shallow trench of concrete
as the weight will be considerable.

Gravel boards are availble everywhere 12" wide by 6' long expect to pay
around £8 each

One problem you will then probably have, white concrete will be ideal
for Graffitti, I once had a similar problem

So I bought a couple of acres and a bungalow in the country,
I don't need fences at all now!

Glen Able wrote:
The timber fence at the bottom of my garden backs onto a public footpath and
is on its last legs now due to being kicked and pulled apart by passing
swines.

The best solution I can think of that's cheap and vandal-proof and will
provide instant privacy is a concrete fence. It'll only need to be about
20' x 6', and I can grow loads of big shrubs in front to disguise it.

Two questions:

a) I've seen concrete posts/gravelboards at Wickes and other places. But
where can I get the concrete panels?
b) Should this be a reasonably simple DIY job?

Cheers all.

(p.s. just email me if you'd like a gmail invite)

"Keith" wrote in message
...
You can do it

Your encouragement is much appreciated :)

Get 9' slotted posts and hire an auger to keep the hole as narrow as
possible concrete all the way down and ensure the bottom gravel boards
are supported across their full length by a shallow trench of concrete
as the weight will be considerable.

Yes, I'm currently contemplating 9' posts with about 3' 4" underground.
Is a concrete trench the best thing to support the boards? I'd worry that
the weight wouldn't be distributed evenly - would a trench packed with
rubble be better?

Gravel boards are availble everywhere 12" wide by 6' long expect to pay
around £8 each

Is it feasible to cut these, so I can cover the 20' properly?



thanks Keith!
G.A.