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Travelogue
I've had quite a few emails asking for some details of the holiday we just
took, with special emphasis on the plantlife side of it, of course. ;-) So I thought I'd post some stuff on here, just in case anyone else is thinking of a US holiday on the west coast or in Hawai'i. We started with 5 nights in LA, staying in Santa Monica. Friends organised our every minute and we covered a lot! Absolute must-sees, IMO, are the Getty Gardens and Museum and the Huntington Gardens. The former is a terrific design concept, taking full advantage of its position high on top of a hill. A little railway takes you up there and the museum itself is a masterpiece of white stone, shipped from Italy and looking like a modern idea of a castle. The gardens fall away below with a cleverly designed and constructed stream running through the middle. The stream bed is paved with brick and the odd rock is placed just so, to give that satisfying water-over-stone noise. We could have argued over some of the planting but very little, to be fair. One or two things were either out of place or unhappy in shade when they needed sun, for example but the good points far outweighed such quibbles. For example, there are some very tall, metal structures with spokes radiating from the top and Bougainvilleas have been carefully trained to climb up inside the 'stem' and cascade over the top. It's a lovely idea and gives a stunning effect. There's a very large pond which has a low growing hibiscus 'maze' planted in the middle of it - a wonderful sight, even in November. Huntington Gardens is a very large and originally private, garden with a good tea room and lovely gift shop. The planting is enormously diverse, loads of orange trees near the entrance to the garden, masses of agaves and aloes and a lot of geraniums, such as palmatum and maderense. The Japanese garden is worth the visit alone. I've always felt that Japanese gardens aren't very satisfactory unless designed by a Japanese - the meaning and philosophy behind every single stone is so much part of their culture. This one was so designed and is still maintained by an old Japanese gardener who nurtures it wonderfully. Just the first glimpse of it is enough to give an immediate shot of tranquillity! I was particularly taken with Loropetalum chinense which we later saw growing in all sorts of places; trimmed to be 'tidy', they look like natural bonsai - fascinating! There is an area with many different kinds of Salvias which is really lovely - we were very jealous of their Salvia involucratas because here we nurse them through the winter and are proud of ourselves - theirs are 5 or 6 feet high and bursting with vim and vigour! The large rose garden has a great number of different roses, all labelled and in bloom even in November and there's also a palm collection. I wouldn't rate this garden highly just as a garden but the many varieties to be seen make it of great interest to the gardener or plantsman. Leaving LA, we drove up Highway 1 to San Francisco, which is a gorgeous adventure in itself. On the way, we stopped the night at Santa Barbara so that we could visit San Marcos growers where they are licensed to propagate and wholesale Ray's Nemesia 'Bluebird', so for us that was a very interesting visit with a chance to talk to a fellow nurseryman working in such totally different conditions. We went to Montecito to see the amazing and outstanding gardens at Lotusland. This once belonged to an opera singer called Madame Walska who had 5 or 6 husbands, all of them but one very rich! She wasn't very interested in flowering plants, so almost all the planting is very structural. There are simply loads of epiphytic plants, groves of eucalyptus, again, vast swathes of agaves, aloes and aeoniums. She believed in planting in really huge numbers and it has made the most staggering effect. In the flowering line, I particularly liked Callistemon viminalis and Syzygium paniculata. There was also the most lovely shrub they call 'Breath of Heaven', Coleonema album. When one brushes against it, it releases a wonderful scent. She had cleverly planted it at the entrance to a little sculpture garden, so that as people come and go they have to push past it and smell its perfume. There is a lot of water in this garden; huge ponds filled with water lilies and one has a vast rock, bridging two of its 'shores'; the rock alone cost $40,000! I fell in love with the weeping bamboo, Chusquea coronalis and the hammock and chain ferns. As one might imagine, there were small woods of various kinds of tree ferns, giving a lovely lacey 'enchanted garden' sort of feel. Madame was clearly deeply fond of cacti and they are *everywhere*. One by the front door of the house must be about 60 years old and it is one of those long thin, trailing, gangly types - it looks like it could get up and walk away any minute! We pushed on up the Highway to San Francisco where Ray was absolutely thrilled to see 'Bluebird' planted at the foot of the large stone saying "San Francisco Historical Maritime Park" down on Fisherman's Wharf where the cable cars turn around! We did the requisite and fascinating tours of the city and the Bay and on one morning took a tour that led us over the Golden Gate Bridge and up to Muir Woods to see those wonderful, soaring redwoods. The peace and beauty is beyond my power to describe and we felt it especially after being in a city for a few days. Hawai'i was a tropical feast of planting. Waikiki Beach Hilton is a sort of upmarket Club Med! They have shops selling everything from coffee beans to diamonds and they clearly don't want you to leave the place! The gardens are beautifully planted and tended and again there is a lot of water. We enjoyed the North African penguins, the swans, flamingoes and many species of ducks. I can't possibly list all that we saw but it was just astonishing to see things like Thunbergia gregii growing as a wild plant on roadsides, and the same for jade vines (unfortunately not flowering in November) Ipomoeas and again, cacti, marching across the landscape. The latter 'escaped' from the garden of our accommodation in Kaua'i, Kiahuna Plantation. When it was a private house, the owner's wife, Mrs Moir brought her cacti collection with her from USA and much of it remains. But it has certainly spread its offspring all over Kaua'i! The car parks were lined with Albizias and there was a lovely deep pink flowered tree they called the Hawaian tulip tree. I don't think we ever did get the proper name of that one. We saw loads of different kinds of Cassias and Callistemons, just out in the wild, Euryops were everywhere |
#3
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Travelogue
The message
from sacha contains these words: I've had quite a few emails asking for some details of the holiday we just took, with special emphasis on the plantlife side of it, of course. ;-) That was a real gardening treat on a grey wet winter day, Sacha, thanks a lot. Janet. |
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