Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Dung!
I have just been and got three large sacks of horse manure from the farm
(there is a plentiful and free supply!)...anyway, two of the bags it's only partially rotted - there is a little bit of fresh stuff in it. the last bag was filled with the stuff from the bottom and it had been there for decades! This bag has no visible straw, bedding, 'balls' of manure or any differing colours, it is just pure black and clean - no roots or any other visible 'impurities', with the appearance of expensive compost! I intend to spread some on the flowerbeds now while I'm digging them over and to allow the impending frost to do it's thing, my idea is to use the partially rotted manure in the beds but... My question is this; can i use some of it for my hanging baskets and other planters in May or is it too rich? - I've heard it will burn the young plants? - will it not burn the seedlings in the beds if this is the case? Is there a difference in the extremely well rotted stuff and the newer stuff? TIA -- http://www.blueyonder256k.myby.co.uk/ |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
The well rotted stuff is the stuff that you want. The 'active' ingredients
have rotted out and been decomposed to less harmful stuff by bacteria and fungi. This is what your plants want. The new dung is liable to 'burn' any plant material, and is best left to continue rotting on the compost heap - it's an excellent accelerator for a new compost heap. The black stuff sounds just right. Use it in your baskets and everywhere else. Davy M. "Phil L" wrote in message .uk... I have just been and got three large sacks of horse manure from the farm (there is a plentiful and free supply!)...anyway, two of the bags it's only partially rotted - there is a little bit of fresh stuff in it. the last bag was filled with the stuff from the bottom and it had been there for decades! This bag has no visible straw, bedding, 'balls' of manure or any differing colours, it is just pure black and clean - no roots or any other visible 'impurities', with the appearance of expensive compost! I intend to spread some on the flowerbeds now while I'm digging them over and to allow the impending frost to do it's thing, my idea is to use the partially rotted manure in the beds but... My question is this; can i use some of it for my hanging baskets and other planters in May or is it too rich? - I've heard it will burn the young plants? - will it not burn the seedlings in the beds if this is the case? Is there a difference in the extremely well rotted stuff and the newer stuff? TIA -- http://www.blueyonder256k.myby.co.uk/ |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Davy Murray wrote:
:: The well rotted stuff is the stuff that you want. The 'active' :: ingredients have rotted out and been decomposed to less harmful :: stuff by bacteria and fungi. This is what your plants want. The :: new dung is liable to 'burn' any plant material, and is best left :: to continue rotting on the compost heap - it's an excellent :: accelerator for a new compost heap. The black stuff sounds just :: right. Use it in your baskets and everywhere else. :: :: Davy M. Hmm, I do have a compost heap of sorts but from what I can glean on here it's a 'cold' heap? It gets lawn trimmings and that's about it, all other fruit/veg 'waste' is recycled by my rodents! I suppose I could pile it up there and go back for some more of the good stuff? As I said, it's a free supply and the farmer in question doesn't use it on her feilds (why?) and hasn't done for many years - I was in up to my knees earlier trying to get the 'black gold'...it sure holds the moisture! -- http://www.blueyonder256k.myby.co.uk/ |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
In article ,
travena wrote: There are Manure Degrader on the Market, which breaks down horse or cow manure in 30 days, this is done with highly concentrated microorganismen. You will need only 10 grams of this stuff ot accelerate 1000 litre of dung. The normal rotting process is appr. 18 months for manure and will not be good for the plant until it is totaly decomposed. If you need more info please contact me, The words "bullshit" and "crap" spring to mind, and perhaps not only referring to the raw materials. Putting it politely, your statements are somewhat inaccurate. Regards, Nick Maclaren. |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Dear Nick
This material is used in industry farming and is designed to this job. MANURE DEGRADER is a powdered blend of selectively adapted organisms blended with crude enzymes and emulsifiers specifically designed to liquefy, digest and deodourise agricultural wastes. Features ∑ Digests cellulosic fibers, proteins, fats and residual carbohydrates in animal wastes. ∑ Improves consistency of waste for pumping. ∑ Retards odour generation in animal waste. ∑ Maximizes fertilizer value of animal waste material. Regards Josef Quote:
|
#7
|
|||
|
|||
"travena" wrote in message ... There are Manure Degrader on the Market, which breaks down horse or cow manure in 30 days, this is done with highly concentrated microorganismen. You will need only 10 grams of this stuff ot accelerate 1000 litre of dung. Why is there an upper limit to the amount of dung your micro-organisms will tackle? And since they will probably multiply like rabbits while doing their job, why does one need 10 gms as a starter? [snip] Franz |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
the will multiply, but go to easier food source, dung or manure is not that easy to break.
in 1 gram of soil you have appr. 4000 different organismen, we just put the most efficient species in one gram overpopulating this 1.000.000 times, MANURE DEGRADER is a powdered blend of selectively adapted organisms blended with crude enzymes and emulsifiers specifically designed to liquefy, digest and deodourise agricultural wastes. Features ∑ Digests cellulosic fibers, proteins, fats and residual carbohydrates in animal wastes. ∑ Improves consistency of waste for pumping. ∑ Retards odour generation in animal waste. ∑ Maximizes fertilizer value of animal waste material. Josef Quote:
|
#9
|
|||
|
|||
"travena" wrote in message ... the will multiply, but go to easier food source, But if all the food source is kept tidily in the compost heap, what is this eassier food you mention? dung or manure is not that easy to break. They rot a damn sight quicker than leaves or sawdust, for example. in 1 gram of soil you have appr. 4000 different organismen, we just put the most efficient species in one gram overpopulating this 1.000.000 times, What is the procedure by which these more effient organisms are separated out from the rest? I would have thought that if you just mixed a kilogram or so of ordinary soil into the compost heap, the required organisms would multiply in no time flat on their own. MANURE DEGRADER is a powdered blend of selectively adapted organisms blended with crude enzymes and emulsifiers specifically designed to liquefy, digest and deodourise agricultural wastes. What does this powdering process consist of? How do the organisms in fact survive a powdering process? Features ∑ Digests cellulosic fibers, proteins, fats and residual carbohydrates in animal wastes. ∑ Improves consistency of waste for pumping. ∑ Retards odour generation in animal waste. ∑ Maximizes fertilizer value of animal waste material. -- Franz "A first-rate laboratory is one in which mediocre scientists can produce outstanding work" P.M.S. Blackett |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Franz Heymann wrote:
Why is there an upper limit to the amount of dung your micro-organisms will tackle? It's the old logistic equation. As they work, they too will excrete/change the local chemical balance until they are starved/poisioned out of activity. Of course, if you take 'seed' amounts during the early part of the process you can infect new piles of manure and get better value for money. Like taking cuttings. Keep feeding and mixing, that's the trick. There may be other effects, like a carefully engineered life cycle, designed to keep the cash flowing to the vendor! And since they will probably multiply like rabbits while doing their job, why does one need 10 gms as a starter? I don't know, but my best guess is that they are supplied packed out to 10g with some sort of filler (like water?) to keep them alive and to make it easier to handle and subdivide if required. I'd be amazed if it was 10g of pure bugs. |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
The organismen, which are used for this kind of job are specialy selected and in powder form.
After they get into water they will come back to life and very hungry, at current this is the highest concentration you can get on the market frøm the enzyme and or Bacteria producers. Microorganismen widly used in washing liquids oil cleaning and so on. The success and time is a number game, more organismen less time. I think you can find some more info now on this side www.travena.com Josef Quote:
|
#12
|
|||
|
|||
wrote in message ups.com... Franz Heymann wrote: Why is there an upper limit to the amount of dung your micro-organisms will tackle? It's the old logistic equation. As they work, they too will excrete/change the local chemical balance until they are starved/poisioned out of activity. But not if ypou maintain the balance by continuously supplying ne rottable material. Of course, if you take 'seed' amounts during the early part of the process you can infect new piles of manure and get better value for money. Like taking cuttings. Keep feeding and mixing, that's the trick. I bet the vendor will say that does not work. There may be other effects, like a carefully engineered life cycle, designed to keep the cash flowing to the vendor! That's more to the point. And since they will probably multiply like rabbits while doing their job, why does one need 10 gms as a starter? I don't know, but my best guess is that they are supplied packed out to 10g with some sort of filler (like water?) to keep them alive and to make it easier to handle and subdivide if required. I'd be amazed if it was 10g of pure bugs. Wow! Some thought! {:-)) -- Franz "A first-rate laboratory is one in which mediocre scientists can produce outstanding work" P.M.S. Blackett |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
wrote in message ups.com... Franz Heymann wrote: Why is there an upper limit to the amount of dung your micro-organisms will tackle? It's the old logistic equation. As they work, they too will excrete/change the local chemical balance until they are starved/poisioned out of activity. Not if you maintain the balance by continuing to feed the heap with new rottable material. Of course, if you take 'seed' amounts during the early part of the process you can infect new piles of manure and get better value for money. Like taking cuttings. Keep feeding and mixing, that's the trick. There may be other effects, like a carefully engineered life cycle, designed to keep the cash flowing to the vendor! Now you're talking. And since they will probably multiply like rabbits while doing their job, why does one need 10 gms as a starter? I don't know, but my best guess is that they are supplied packed out to 10g with some sort of filler (like water?) to keep them alive and to make it easier to handle and subdivide if required. I'd be amazed if it was 10g of pure bugs. Wow. The mind boggles at the thought. {:-)) |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
there are Manure Degrader, which helps to release the nutritiuns to the plant much quicker,
normaly you need up to 18 months to decompose dung or manure. with the help of microorganismen you can achieve this in 30 days, this is done on a natural way, if you need more info pls contact me. Josef Quote:
|
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
How best to use horse dung to grow veggies? | Edible Gardening |