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Old 04-06-2005, 05:19 PM
Rob Keel
 
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Default Most effective/fast acting weedkiller ...

Can someone please recommend.

Many thanks.

--
Rob Keel.
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Old 04-06-2005, 06:34 PM
Peter Stockdale
 
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"Rob Keel" wrote in message
...
Can someone please recommend.

Many thanks.

--
Rob Keel.



We need more info. to answer your question safely
In particular the situation of the weeds in relation to other plants,
animals and structures.

Regards
Pete
www.thecanalshop.com


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Old 04-06-2005, 06:36 PM
Martin Brown
 
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Rob Keel wrote:

Can someone please recommend.


These two requirements are mutually incompatible. A fast acting
weedkiller will fry off the tops without seriously damaging the roots.

You actually want a slow but effective weedkiller like glyphosate for
maximum effect with minimal application. And for specialised tasks like
paths and patios there are specific products with suggestive names.

Regards,
Martin Brown
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Old 04-06-2005, 06:36 PM
Chuck Bodgers
 
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"Rob Keel" wrote in message
...
Can someone please recommend.


Neutron bomb


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Old 04-06-2005, 06:43 PM
Rob Keel
 
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Peter Stockdale wrote:


"Rob Keel" wrote in message
...
Can someone please recommend.

Many thanks.

--
Rob Keel.



We need more info. to answer your question safely
In particular the situation of the weeds in relation to other plants,
animals and structures.

Regards
Pete
www.thecanalshop.com


Thanks Pete.

The weed is situated in my back garden. No animals, plants or
structures nearby. Just normal weed which I want to clear prior to
laying some turf.

Hope this is enough to go on. Sorry, I don't know much about gardening.

--
Rob Keel.


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Old 04-06-2005, 06:45 PM
Rob Keel
 
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Martin Brown wrote:

Rob Keel wrote:

Can someone please recommend.


These two requirements are mutually incompatible. A fast acting
weedkiller will fry off the tops without seriously damaging the roots.

You actually want a slow but effective weedkiller like glyphosate for
maximum effect with minimal application. And for specialised tasks
like paths and patios there are specific products with suggestive
names.

Regards,
Martin Brown


Thanks for the info Martin.

--
Rob Keel.
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Old 04-06-2005, 06:46 PM
Rob Keel
 
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Chuck Bodgers wrote:


"Rob Keel" wrote in message
...
Can someone please recommend.


Neutron bomb


Nice one!!! .... mmm, better not use a bomb although I wouldn't mind
bombing the next door neighbours!! )

--
Rob Keel.
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Old 04-06-2005, 07:41 PM
Alan Gould
 
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In article , Rob Keel
robkeel@[removethis] writes
Can someone please recommend.

I use a hoe!
--
Alan & Joan Gould - North Lincs.
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Old 04-06-2005, 10:25 PM
Mike Lyle
 
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Alan Gould wrote:
In article , Rob Keel
robkeel@[removethis] writes
Can someone please recommend.

I use a hoe!


Or a "swoe" if you're lucky enough to find one: they work on the back
stroke as well as the forward one, and can be got into odd corners. I
saw a really good "wire hoe" on GW last night, though I've never seen
one in everyday life: the local garage man or metal-worker would
probably make one out of an ordinary Dutch hoe for a couple of quid.

A hoe of any kind won't help much with tap-rooted weeds like
dandelions and thistles where Rob wants to put a lawn, though. The
best treatment for these is to dig them up with a fork. For best
results you need to dig over and rake down the site for a new lawn
anyway, and getting the weed roots out at the same time isn't really
any extra work. Take out any bit of plumpish root you can see. The
point is to have a slightly loose bed for your turf to get its roots
into as quickly as possible: it isn't really any different from
preparing the surface for sowing grass seed. Seed will give you a
better sward, and a lot cheaper, too; but it takes longer before you
can play on the lawn.

The lazy way is to lay turf on a bare surface without any
preparation: this can be a waste of money, as a lot of the turf may
die, so you might as well have done the work and sowed seed in the
first place. If there were no serious perennial weeds, you'd usually
get away with a really brutal raking -- plants do want to grow, in
spite of our lack of effort. But the plot we're talking about _has_
got weeds, and they have to be dealt with, or there'll be grief in a
few months' time.

If you want to go with just the brutal raking, then you could just
deal with the weeds when they pop up through your new lawn, using the
"Weed and Feed" stuff. Most lawn weeds are nice, of course: I don't
kill them. Otherwise, you'll have to kill the deep-rooted weeds
first. So back to digging, or use a weedkiller while they still have
good leaves for it to act on: that means glyphosate, Roundup, etc.
I'm not saying you're a bad person if you use them: I've occasionally
done it myself when there didn't seem to be any option in paths etc;
but the spray can't do you any good, and it's nearly always bullsh**
to suggest they save you effort.

Sorry this is so long. (And hi, MM! The car broke down, so I haven't
gone away.)

--
Mike.


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Old 04-06-2005, 10:42 PM
pammyT
 
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"Alan Gould" wrote in message
...
In article , Rob Keel
robkeel@[removethis] writes
Can someone please recommend.

I use a hoe!

Doesn't she miind ?




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Old 04-06-2005, 11:32 PM
Mike Lyle
 
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Default

pammyT wrote:
"Alan Gould" wrote in message
...
In article , Rob Keel
robkeel@[removethis] writes
Can someone please recommend.

I use a hoe!

Doesn't she miind ?


Bet she's lovin' it.

--
Mike.


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Old 05-06-2005, 11:49 AM
Duncan Heenan
 
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Default


"Rob Keel" wrote in message
...
Peter Stockdale wrote:


"Rob Keel" wrote in message
...
Can someone please recommend.

Many thanks.

--
Rob Keel.



We need more info. to answer your question safely
In particular the situation of the weeds in relation to other plants,
animals and structures.

Regards
Pete
www.thecanalshop.com


Thanks Pete.

The weed is situated in my back garden. No animals, plants or
structures nearby. Just normal weed which I want to clear prior to
laying some turf.

Hope this is enough to go on. Sorry, I don't know much about gardening.

--
Rob Keel.


To plant over the top, use Weedol. It is fast - a few days will see the
result, and designed to be neutralised by the soil and so planting or
overlaying turf a few days after application should be no problem. It's
worked for me.




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Old 05-06-2005, 06:47 PM
Rod
 
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On Sat, 4 Jun 2005 17:45:12 +0000 (UTC), "Rob Keel"
wrote:

Martin Brown wrote:

Rob Keel wrote:

Can someone please recommend.


These two requirements are mutually incompatible. A fast acting
weedkiller will fry off the tops without seriously damaging the roots.

You actually want a slow but effective weedkiller like glyphosate for
maximum effect with minimal application. And for specialised tasks
like paths and patios there are specific products with suggestive
names.

Regards,
Martin Brown


Thanks for the info Martin.


How fast? Glyphosate based weedkillers like 'Roundup' appear slow but
in fact for pre-planting/sowing cleanup you can start your soil
preparation about a week after application - provided you applied it
according to the instructions ie. when the weeds are growing well and
have plenty of foliage on them, it will have moved down into the roots
and even if the weeds don't look much damaged they are doomed and you
can do whatever you need to do to prepare your soil. Do remember turf
needs a 'seedbed' just as grass seeds do, don't shortcut this you'll
regret it if you do.
Rod

Weed my address to reply

http://website.lineone.net/~rodcraddock/index.html
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