orange tree in self watering pot
 

Hi, we have a small orange tree about 16" (inches) high above the soil
level in a pot 8" high and 8" in diameter. it's about three years old.

it stands just inside some french widows in a south facing location.
recently many leaves have gone brown and dry at the tips for about 0.25
inches long on the leaf and then there is a part of the leaf next to that
has turned yellow. the yellow part is also about 0.25 inches in length.

the pot is of the self-watering kind. that is it has a reservoir of water
below a grill. above the grill is the soil. so the plant is watered by the
water evaporating on to the soil above.

i have put some soluable photogen feed into the water recently, but only
after the leaves started drying and turning yellow.

does this sound simply like a short of feed problem please? or might it be
something else.

The message
from "jw 111" contains these words:

Hi, we have a small orange tree about 16" (inches) high above the soil
level in a pot 8" high and 8" in diameter. it's about three years old.

it stands just inside some french widows in a south facing location.
recently many leaves have gone brown and dry at the tips for about 0.25
inches long on the leaf and then there is a part of the leaf next to that
has turned yellow. the yellow part is also about 0.25 inches in length.

the pot is of the self-watering kind. that is it has a reservoir of water
below a grill. above the grill is the soil. so the plant is watered by the
water evaporating on to the soil above.

Not ideal. The roots will grow through and into the water, and citrus
trees don't like that. Why they do it is anyone's guess.

The best method seems to be to water it well and allow it almost to dry
out, then water it again.

i have put some soluable photogen feed into the water recently, but only
after the leaves started drying and turning yellow.

? Phostrogen? That won't evaporate with the water, it'll just remain in
the reservoir. I'd make sure there are worms in the soil and work a
handful of bonemeal or hoof and horn into the surface, letting the worms
gradually take it down.

does this sound simply like a short of feed problem please? or might it be
something else.

Something else. Though what, I wouldn't like to say.

--
Rusty
Emus to: horrid dot squeak snailything zetnet point co full-stop uk
http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/hi-fi/

On Wed, 6 Jul 2005 21:50:53 +0100, Jaques d'Alltrades
wrote:

The message
from "jw 111" contains these words:

Hi, we have a small orange tree about 16" (inches) high above the soil
level in a pot 8" high and 8" in diameter. it's about three years old.

it stands just inside some french widows in a south facing location.
recently many leaves have gone brown and dry at the tips for about 0.25
inches long on the leaf and then there is a part of the leaf next to that
has turned yellow. the yellow part is also about 0.25 inches in length.

the pot is of the self-watering kind. that is it has a reservoir of water
below a grill. above the grill is the soil. so the plant is watered by the
water evaporating on to the soil above.

Not ideal. The roots will grow through and into the water, and citrus
trees don't like that. Why they do it is anyone's guess.

The best method seems to be to water it well and allow it almost to dry
out, then water it again.

i have put some soluable photogen feed into the water recently, but only
after the leaves started drying and turning yellow.

? Phostrogen? That won't evaporate with the water, it'll just remain in
the reservoir. I'd make sure there are worms in the soil and work a
handful of bonemeal or hoof and horn into the surface, letting the worms
gradually take it down.

does this sound simply like a short of feed problem please? or might it be
something else.

Something else. Though what, I wouldn't like to say.

Why don't you repot it, in ericaceous compost, in a different pot, and
put it outside for the summer. Put it in semi-shade to start with
until it recovers. Rusty's advice is good.

Pam in Bristol

"Pam Moore" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 6 Jul 2005 21:50:53 +0100, Jaques d'Alltrades
wrote:

The message
from "jw 111" contains these words:

Hi, we have a small orange tree about 16" (inches) high above the soil
level in a pot 8" high and 8" in diameter. it's about three years old.

it stands just inside some french widows in a south facing location.
recently many leaves have gone brown and dry at the tips for about 0.25
inches long on the leaf and then there is a part of the leaf next to
that
has turned yellow. the yellow part is also about 0.25 inches in length.

the pot is of the self-watering kind. that is it has a reservoir of
water
below a grill. above the grill is the soil. so the plant is watered by
the
water evaporating on to the soil above.

Not ideal. The roots will grow through and into the water, and citrus
trees don't like that. Why they do it is anyone's guess.

The best method seems to be to water it well and allow it almost to dry
out, then water it again.

i have put some soluable photogen feed into the water recently, but only
after the leaves started drying and turning yellow.

? Phostrogen? That won't evaporate with the water, it'll just remain in
the reservoir. I'd make sure there are worms in the soil and work a
handful of bonemeal or hoof and horn into the surface, letting the worms
gradually take it down.

does this sound simply like a short of feed problem please? or might it
be
something else.

Something else. Though what, I wouldn't like to say.

Why don't you repot it, in ericaceous compost, in a different pot, and
put it outside for the summer. Put it in semi-shade to start with
until it recovers. Rusty's advice is good.

Pam in Bristol

thanks to all. could you explain to a novice; does bonemeal or hoof and
horn have all the foods
necessary? why would these be better than phostogen?

many thanks john west

The message
from "jw 111" contains these words:

thanks to all. could you explain to a novice; does bonemeal or hoof and
horn have all the foods
necessary? why would these be better than phostogen?

Yes - it has phosphates and releases them slowly, so one dose of
bonemeal or hoof and horn will last for years. There will be enough
nitrogen in it too.

I suspect that there is too much nitrogen in Phostrogen. With too much
nitrogen you'll get lots of soft green growth which may weaken the tree
in the long run.

--
Rusty
Emus to: horrid dot squeak snailything zetnet point co full-stop uk
http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/hi-fi/

The message
from Dave Poole contains these words:

Rusty wrote:
necessary? why would these be better than phostogen?

Yes - it has phosphates and releases them slowly, so one dose of
bonemeal or hoof and horn will last for years. There will be enough
nitrogen in it too.

Well erm ... All Citrus species. do need rather high levels of
nitrogen and slightly lower levels of potash and phosphates. I've had
them growing out of doors in large containers here and their needs
were satisfied with applications of Chempak no 2 every 3 - 4 weeks
from March through to the end of June plus an annual dose of Epsom
Salts ( Magnesium sulphate) in spring. This results in free growing,
floriferous and productive plants.

My lemon trees are doing rather well on a drainage 'rubble' of chicken
and rabbit bones in the bottom of the pots. Like most pip-grown trees
they vary in height, but the tallest of them are about four feet, which
isn't bad for two-year-old seedlings.

True, the shortest is about nine inches...

I've one satsuma - the only pip from a net full of oranges, planted at
the same time, and around a foot high, but 'shrubby', whereas the tall
lemons have a main stem with branches off.

Thanks for the feeding pointers: I'll adjust the régime accordingly.

Now, I suppose I'll have to look around for a disused church to convert
so I can keep them somewhere lofty in the winter...
..
I suspect that there is too much nitrogen in Phostrogen. With too much
nitrogen you'll get lots of soft green growth which may weaken the tree
in the long run.

That's the theory Rusty and probably true if the plants are
'overdosed' throughout the year. However in reality, high nitrogen
feeds in spring and early summer really do give excellent results -
provided of course, the plants are in good health to start with. A
recently re-potted Citrus will not need feeding for the first couple
of months. I should add that if an ericaceous mix is used for
compost, additional horticultural sand or grit needs to be added to
ensure better drainage and good aeration to the rather thick roots.

My favourite mix is 2 parts JI no3 to one part ericaceous to which
about 10% by volume sharp sand or grit is added. Its not quite as
good as that clinker & loam in which imported plants are often potted,
but it seems to give good results over a long period.

I'd be tempted to use bonemeal instead of the grit, or at least, along
with it. many years ago I could have bought a small stone-crushing
machine for the price of its scrap value, but couldn't see much use for
it. I'd like one, now.

--
Rusty
Emus to: horrid dot squeak snailything zetnet point co full-stop uk
http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/hi-fi/