"Spider" wrote in message
...
On 23/08/2014 12:21, JD wrote:
Earlier this year, I planted three apple saplings which are now 4 to
5.5ft
tall. I've followed the usual advice and started pruning them to
establish
what I think is a sensible branch structure - except that I'm not sure
what
I should be doing about their vertical leader ( on trees 1 & 3). I have
posted photos he

http://tinyurl.com/oz7v6b9

I'd like to end up with a reasonably attractivem natural-looking healthy
shape. I'm not concerned about obtaining maximum fruit production, as
thes
trees are primarily for providing shade to sit under, and blocking out
unsightly items from view in Summer. I'd like each tree to end up about
10
or ll feet tall.

Trees No 1 & 3 are growing upwards more than outwards. Should I nip the
vertical leaders off? If so, at what height? (Tree no.2 doesn't have such
a
tall, narrow form, because it got accidentally snapped of at half it's
height shortly after I planted it.

Any advice on pruning these three trees would be appreciated.

Many thanks,

Jake D




I'm not an expert on pruning apple trees (although I prune my Crab apple
and have pruned a friend's apple tree) but, since you've received no
advice thus far, I will attempt to fill in a few blanks for you (and
Ophelia now).

The rootstock on which an apple grows (that is, on to which it's been
grafted) rules the size and height of the tree so, in a sense, you have
already made that decision. However, pruning at the right time will
certainly help you control the size to some extent, although the tree's
vigour may try to argue with you.

In my case, I was thinking that if I took out the top, it might bush out
more below? There are a lot of new shoots coming from lower down in the
trunks on both the plum and the apple. I also have cotoneaster, climbing
hydrangea and holly that are sprouting quite thickly in the lower trunks. I
haven't seen this before! Could I possibly have done something right or are
they from outer space and they are coming to get me??


It is well worth knowing that pruning in summer controls growth; pruning
in winter encourages growth.

I Didn't Know That!!


Before you prune anything, you need to know whether your trees are 'tip
bearing' or 'spur bearing', ie where the fruit appears on the branches. It
is easier to prune spur bearing trees. If you prune without knowing, you
may be removing fruiting wood - almost certainly if it is a tip bearer.
Now this is the educated intuitive part (perhaps someone will let me/us
know if I go wrong):
Because you are growing for shade as much as fruit, in your position I
would let it grow on this year, allowing the leader in each tree to make
more height so that you can walk and sit under it later. (If you were
growing purely for fruit, I would advice shaping the tree now to keep the
fruit at a convenient height for picking). As for the lower branches,
it's better to leave them because they will help thicken up and strengthen
the trunk. If they're in the way, then just shorten them back a little.
Much later, when you have more height and a good crown on the tree, you
will be able to 'raise the crown' (remove some lower branches) of the tree
to allow you to walk beneath.

Where you have a double leader due to earlier breakage, select the
strongest leader and cut out the other. If need be, you can straighten
the selected leader by tying it to a strong stake until the wood has
hardened into the correct position, which may take a year or two. (Leaving
two leaders, incidentally, can cause the tree to split and tear at the
basal 'V' and seriously damage the tree.
For now, this is all I would do.

When you do start pruning, you first need to cut out the three 'Ds': dead,
dying and diseased growth. Then any crossing growth, that is, any
inward-growing branches which spoil the shape of the tree and also
increase the possibilty of fungal disease due to restricting air movement.
Also cut out any branch which rubs on another and may cause wounding,
which will subsequently let in disease.

The other useful thing you could do is drop heavy hints for a good pruning
guide for Christmas. I recommend the RHS Pruning & Training guide by
Christopher Brickell & David Joyce. It's a Dorling Kindersley publication,
ISBN 1-4053-0073-6.

Hope that helps a bit.

Phew that helps a LOT thank you very much and I shall certainly treat myself
to that pruning guide!

Thank you for the wonderful response. I am very grateful for the time and
trouble you have taken.

Book ordered))

Ophelia





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