On 27/08/2014 20:47, Ophelia wrote:


"Spider" wrote in message
...

apple
http://tinypic.com/m/i6kxms/3

The new shoots and branches are well below the fruiting top and there is
a big gap between both.



It is very sparse, isn't it?! Not just few branches, but few leaves,
too. I'm slightly concerned that the tree appears to be right by
paving slabs or perhaps steps, with grass growing fairly close to it.

Yes, it is near slabs and the grass is rather overgrown!!! I haven't
been here for a long time Since we have been back though I have been
running the water hose on that area for quite a long time.

The
first may prevent water, and therefore nutrients, reaching the tree.
The second is certainly taking nutrients and water from the tree.
Even if the growth were better balanced, you could expect to get
'bitter pit' in your apples. This occurs when the tree cannot take up
enough calcium. Usually, the calcium is in the soil, but shortage of
water prevents the tree from taking advantage of it in the dissolved
form it needs. If you've had bitter pit in your apples, you will know
about it, because it renders them inedible.

I understand! Luckily the few apples we have atm taste good! Not too
many but we are enjoying them. I am not sure what has happened in
previous years because we haven't been here. Could any falls have
provided some kind of food ... or is that just daft?



As to pruning, you certainly need to cut back that leader in winter.
There is a significant lower branch crossing and potentially rubbing
the main trunk, or so it appears.

Yes! You are right! I guess I will learn from my new book which are
the ones to leave? I can remember trying to prune it before in years
past and was afraid of cutting out too much, but yes, I did leave some
crossed branches

You will need to cut this back as far as
the rising upright branch with which it makes a 'V' shape. You will
also need to take out the much smaller branch on the right which is
growing towards the trunk. It appears that the tree has not been well
pruned before, as I'm seeing dead or dying stubs left from old pruning
cuts, and even a tear in the bark higher up where a branch has been
pulled away, rather than cut. All these should be cut out or back to
clean wood, if possible.

Oh my. Yes! I will do that! In Winter you say?


Apart from that, I would leave it alone and see how it responds. It
is a mistake to remove too much wood at once. Do your pruning in
winter when the tree is dormant. In Spring, when it starts to put on
growth, give it a feed with general purpose fertiliser. When it
starts to produce fruitlets, give it a high potash feed and keep it
well watered.

I will! We intend to stay here for some time now.


Sorry, had to do this is in a hurry. Husband Thingy serving dinner!
Hope what I've said makes sense.

I am working on it and will get it sorted) (All saved for future
reference!)

I'll look in later in case of
questions. (I may have to do the other shrubs/tree on Friday).

Thank you but I am in no hurry! I am just so thrilled that you would
take so much time and trouble to help!

Enjoy your dinner)




I'm very happy to help where I can and I'm really glad if it's helping
you. I hate all the mystery and angst surrounding pruning. Once you
know where to prune and especially *why* you're pruning, it all becomes
very common-sensical. Alas, there are gaps in my knowledge, but I am
trying to learn more. Having grown some of the trees/shrubs and gained
experience of them - including making mistakes - makes all the
difference. Of course, having The Book is a boon, as you will see.

I've got to be out most of tomorrow, so the laptop may not get switched
on till late, if at all. I'll have another session on Friday.
(By-the-way, dinner was most enjoyable, thank you - even the one I tried
to burn! It was kedgeree, one of my favourites, so I would have really
disappointed to spoil it).

Night night.
--
Spider.
On high ground in SE London
gardening on heavy clay