On 27/08/2014 22:30, JD wrote:
Spider wrote in :


Forgive me following my own post, Jake, but having looked at your pics
again, I note that some of your trees are growing with grass close to
the trunk. Trees, especially new trees, need a 3ft/1m circle of clear
soil to prevent competition from grass and weeds. The grass mulch round
some of your trees is good, but it shouldn't be making contact with the
trunk, as this can cause rotting.

thanks again. You really sem to know your stuff (despite saying you're not
an expert)!



Steady, Jake, I can't concentrate when I'm blushing! ) Thanks, though.



I'm a bit concerned about Tree No2 - the one that god snapped off at half
its height shortly after planting. That's the one that I need to grow tall
the quickest and produce shade.


Tree No2 really needs that second leader taking out. I suggest you
remove the weaker leader growing to the right. This will allow the tree
to concentrate its energy on the stronger remaining leader. Hopefully,
now that it's in its final position, it will really put its anchors down
and grow away.


After reading all you've said, I wish I hadn't done any Summer pruning
becase you imply this will inhibit growth. I didn't know that prior to
reading your advice. However what's done is done, and hopefully all will
look satisfactory as it grows in the coming years.


Don't worry about the summer pruning too much. In fact, it is probably
the guided tour of your garden that held it back most but, as you say,
what's done is done. You really need to make sure that it doesn't want
for water. If anything, water especially well outside the planting
hole. This will oblige the roots to move out into the soil in search of
water and nutrients. I'm sure you can see how this will encourage
growth and help the tree anchor itself in the ground.

I notice that only two of your trees have stakes. It would be wise with
the winter coming to put in a short stake for the third tree. Shorter
stakes are advised these days, as it allows the tree to move in the wind
and strengthen itself. The stake should be inserted (away from the
rootball) at approx 45 degrees and so that the prevailing wind pushes
the stake into the ground, rather than pulling it out. Use a buffer
between the tree and the stake so that there is no chafing when the tree
moves in the wind. Chafing means damage: damage means disease.


When I bough these saplings (from Asda) there was no indication what the
rootstock was or what the final height would be. I suppose only time will
tell.



Yes, this is a problem. I even Googled Asda fruit trees in the vain
hope that I would learn something, but nothing showing. Do you remember
what the apple types were? Knowing this should help us learn whether
they're spur or tip bearing.


I was surprised how many times Tree No.2 tolerated being moved! I moved it
twice before being happy with the exact position, and it carried on growing
without batting an eyelid!

JD



Not wishing to be negative, but suspend your surprise for a while.
Trees often *seem* to cope with immediate disruption or starving or
flooding, but a year or three down the line start to show signs of
stress .. or worse. This is why I emphasized watering and staking and
general good care above. The chances are that, with due care and
watering (even after a light shower), your tree will grow away well, but
its not out of the woods yet.
--
Spider.
On high ground in SE London
gardening on heavy clay