On 28/06/2015 21:01, AL_n wrote:
Spider wrote in news:cv7j85Ft7q2U1
@mid.individual.net:
Hi Alan,
re Q1: You appear to have an apple on very dwarfing rootstock, so
you're never going to have a truly tall tree, so I hope that's not the
plan. If you want to shape the tree, the best thing you can do at the
moment is to accept the strong and (more-or-less) central stem as your
leader (the main trunk, as it were). Without piercing the rootstock,
put in a tall stake in line with that leader, then tie in the stem to
help straighten it up. Don't forget the ties are there - I've seen
many
trees critically damaged because a tie wasn't loosened in time!
You may also, if you wish, trim back the lower side branches *but do
not
remove them*; just tip them back a little. If you know the varietal
name of your apple, then check whether it is tip or spur bearing, as
this will inform the way you prune it forever. If you cut a tip-
bearing
tree back too hard, you will remove all the fruiting wood for that
year,
so it's quite important. Spur-bearers are easier to prune and the
chances are this is what you have. Worth checking though.
re Q2: I'm not sure what the lesions are on your apple leaves, but the
tree does look generally healthy, so I wouldn't worry too much. Just
keep an eye on it. In autumn, all the leaves will fall anyway so, if
you
have any doubts about disease or pests then make sure you remove all
the
fallen leaves promptly to prevent reinfection of the tree.
It may just be that your tree is stressed with the droughty weather
we're (*I'm*!) having, so give it plenty of water.
I confess I'm frantically busy at the moment, but will try and learn
what that leaf problem is - not least because I have a crab apple which
may suffer similar problems in the future.
It would help your tree hugely if you could clear the grass away from
the base of the tree. A 3ft/1mtr circle of clear ground around the base
of the trunk is recommended. The grass and weeds are currently
competing for water and food, so are substantially adding to the stress
of your tree.
Hope this helps.
--
Spider.
On high ground in SE London
gardening on heavy clay
Spider, my dear! Nice to know you are still around! (You've given me some
good advice in the past! In the absence of a reply to my post (until now)
I went ahead and used my own jusdgement and pruned off the lower branches
(completely). Now I read your post which advises otherwise! I'm not
concerned with fruit this year, I just want to encourage the tree to grow
taller rather than wide. Unfortunately, I seem to have lost the original
packaging. The sapling was from Asda. I do recall it's an orange cox
pippin. I think you are probably right that it is a dwarf, but if I can
get it to grow four metres tall, that's all I need. It seems to grow
about 6" to a foot each year so far. I need it for shade rather than for
fruit. I'm hoping that having removed the lower branches, all the
growing-power coming from the roots will be diverted into the leader.
(Not sure if that's how it works, but that's what I was banking on!)
Many thanks for your other suggestions. You are very helpful as always.
-Al (also gardening on heavy clay, but not in S.E. London any more...)!
Hi Alan,
What a lovely warm greeting and kind remarks, thank you! I must crawl
out of my web more often:~).
It's a pity you lopped the side branches off, but not the end of the
world. Lower branches (whether wanted or not) help to build up the
girth of the tree, which is desireable, especially if you're hoping to
increase the height. The leaves thereon help to feed the tree, of
course. Nevermind, you can hardly glue them back on!
I've read your exchange with David and agree to a large extent.
Naturally, if you want shade, you wouldn't normally select a
particularly dwarf form, but it seems implicit that this was an impulse
buy (we've all done that!). A small tree with a wide crown would offer
you better shade than a taller tree, of course, but you expressly
preferred 'taller'. Not hard to see why, though;~). If you were to
replace it (or plant another tree), I can highly recommend Crataegus x
persimilis 'Prunifolia', otherwise known as the cherry-leaved hawthorn:
http://www.bluebellnursery.com/catal...rataegus/C/857
It is a strikingly beautiful tree with late spring blossom, summer
shade, autumn leaf colour and persistent red berries ... and long thorns!
At some point your tree will offer you some shade, but it will be
sitting under - rather than standing under - shade, and in truth not too
much of it. It may help if both the trees you pictured are planted
close together, giving you a larger sitting-in-shade area.
For your information, Cox's Orange Pippin is a spur-bearer, which makes
pruning rather easier, but I think you should ease off the pruning for now!
I note you're no longer in SE London. I wonder where you are, just in
case it informs your gardening .. or our understanding of it.
Do let us know what you decide to do.
Best wishes,
--
Spider.
On high ground in SE London
gardening on heavy clay