01-05-2003, 09:08 PM
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[IBC] Oaks for bonsai (was: [IBC] (newbie) burr-oak.. will it bud back?
Jim Lewis squeezed out:
Craig.
Ok.. I'm learning slowly.. What I hear you saying is that if
the
specimens have been stunted they often will produce a
desireably small
leaf.
If this is the case and I've heard you correctly you needn't
post
back..
Cheers! Ian.
Well, yes and no.
First, what I wrote and Craig responded to is that oaks are NOT A
TREE FOR A BEGINNER (emphasis added).
Second, almost all eastern and central North American oaks with
deeply lobed leaves (White, overcup, mossycup, post, almost all
of the red oaks -- scarlet (sometimes has small leaves), pin,
jack, nuttal, black, Spanish, turkey, blackjack, etc.) have
leaves that are too large for anything but the very largest
bonsai even after being reduced by "stunting" or life in a pot.
This isn't necessarily true for oaks with toothed, wavy, or
smooth edges (tho some of them are pretty large, too) or many of
the oaks that grow in the arid southwestern North America.
Oaks that should make very nice bonsai include Q. prinoides
(dwarf oak) which Craig should know, Q. imbricata (shingle oak),
Q. laurifolia (Laurel oak, which grows down here, Q. phellos
(willow oak), Q. incana (sand oak), Q. virginiana (live oak -
whose leaves often are too large), and a large number of western,
dry-land oaks [the coast live oak, Q. agrifolia), AZ white oak,
Q. arizonica, canyon live oak (Q. chrysolepis), blue oak (Q.
douglassi), Calif. scrub oak (Q. dumosa -- with VERY small
leaves!), and many, many more from the far west].
NONE of them dig easily. All sprout quite well from acorns, but
you are unlikely to get the oak's typical ruggedness from an
acorn-grown oak.
Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Our life is
frittered away by detail . . . . Simplify! Simplify. -- Henry
David Thoreau - Walden
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Jim.
I heard you loud and clear.
Cheers! Ian.
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