If I remember correctly leaf tip burning in maples has something to do with
the circulation of fluids in the leaf and that the tips of the leaves have
these very tiny vessels. That, depending on the type of water you use,
particles can get trapped in those tiny vessels. Part of this also has to
do with sun and wind making the transpiration rate change. I use about a
tablespoon of gypsum per 6" pot and have had good results. The gypsum is
supposed to unbind the particles. I grow Koto Hime maples in full sun and
have no leaf burn.
Kitsune Miko
Somewhere in NORCAL
At 04:47 PM 6/17/03 +0100, kevin bailey wrote:
Hi Keith,
It would help if we knew where you are. If you are just getting into
summer as we are, some sun and wind damage is almost inevitable with
maples that are in an exposed position. Remember that the Japanese
Maples are an under-story tree in the wild. If you do defoliate them in
early summer they usually react with a new crop of smaller leaves this
season. These take a few weeks to develop. This is often done to get
smaller leaves for showing and to help in achieving better ramification
( twigginess).
Hope this helps
Kev Bailey
Hello,
I have a maple that appeared to be in good health until
last week.
The leaves are deteriorating at the tips. I've snipped
some and left the branches. I soak it 3 times a week for
5 minutes. It has decent early AM sun.
If I snip all the leaves and leave the branches, will
the leaves reappear next spring?
Any suggestions? Thanks!
KA
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