AndWhyNot wrote:

Hello AndWhyNot

A driven strimmer McCulloch MX310 that I am ALWAYS CONSTANTLY
A have to stop to 'adjust' the cutter feed ............ this
A replaced an electric thing that was the same ...........
A 'Just gently tap on the ground, and the self adjusting /
A self monitoring / fully automatic / fully patented
A / foolproof mechanism will ensure trouble free
A adjustment....... rubbish

Yeah, I hate those things!

A Now the bloke with the council strimmer goes on ALL DAY
A without EVER looking at his nylon cable, for months on end
A .......... where can I get one ???? (a strimmer like his I
A mean and not the council bloke)

Normal rig for a professional strimmer is:

~40cc engine.

Twin string cutter head with 3mm round string running at about 6".

The smaller engined strimmers won't have the oomph to push 3mm string
around at a length long enough to cut well.

Once you've got such a strimmer and head, technique plays a big part
in how long the string lasts. Cutting grass alone it rarely needs
twiddling, but up against fences or through 2nd year brambles and it
can need constant attention.

A What about 'brush cutters' are they any better?? 1/3 acre of
A wild at the sides garden (all open crop fields)

Brushcutters used to be simply oversized strimmers that used a metal
cutting blade, but now the term's been watered down to include
anything beyond the smallest petrol strimmers. Blades can work well on
medium sized strimmers too since the momentum is more constant and the
drag lower.

However, for cutting grass they're slower, more inclined to jam, don't
clear the cutting site like a strimmer and need to be treated with
more respect, not just to your toes but also the slightest dig into
the ground results in a blunt blade. They're very good for woody scrub
and bramble patches, though. Can even get cutting tooth ones that can
fell small trees up to about 3-4" diameter.

How often do you cut your field?

--
Simon Avery, Dartmoor, UK Ý http://www.digdilem.org/