I like the idea of the LEDs. The 20w halogens must be completely
submerged to cool them. Would you mind sharing your design. You can do
it by email if you would prefer. Now that I think of it the one made
for auto backup lights would be ready made. Just need a housing of
lexan, maybe.
I forgot where I was and assumed all outdoor wiring would be done
to code and include a GFI device. Thanks for picking up on that.
wrote in message
news
The "pond / water" rated transformers cost quite a bit more because
they are isolation transformers. This insures, in the event of a
failure of the transformer, that the primary voltage (i.e. 120 VAC)
can not short to the secondary output. The isolation transformer is
a
really a good idea for safety. If you choose to go with the cheaper
transformer (on which you will see a warning not to use it for
submersible lights) make sure that the outlet feeding it is GFCI
protected, and if you are connecting multiple lights make sure that
any wire splicing is done well away from the water.

I built my own 12 volt DC, 5 Amp power supply for about $20 last
year.
I bought the isolation transformer from a surplus electronics supply
house. I also made my own submersible lights using super-bright
LEDs.




On Fri, 11 Jul 2003 17:48:31 -0700, "stricks760"

wrote:

Hi Again - sorry for beating everyone to death with questions . . .

If I get a normal landscape lighting timer (12 VDC) at e.g Home
Depot, can I
run pond lights with it (assuming wattage works out, etc.)

The pond stores charge a fortune for what is (I think) a fairly
run-of-the-mill landscape lighting timer. I would obviously get
real
pondlights.

Thanks again!