Thanks, folks, for your insightful advice!

I think I'll try Weed B Gone on a dense patch of Ground Ivy and keep the
baby away from that area. Then I'll see how effective it is and proceed
from there...

Thanks again!

Dave


In Chet Hayes wrote:
Since you're concerned about chemicals, I would not use the Scotts
fertilizer/weed killer which goes over the entire lawn. For a
reasonable size lawn, you can use a 2 gal tank sprayer with a weed
killer like Weed B Gone and just spot treat the weeds. Once you have
a good lawn, it's hard for weeds to get established and occasional
spot treatment is all you need. That will minimize the amount of
herbicide.




wrote in message news:20030714233414.
...
Dave K wrote:
1) Are there any NATURAL ways to rid my lawn of Ground Ivy and
other broadleaf weeds? We have babies and we don't want to use
chemicals.

Put on gloves and knee pads and get at it, cause if you don't
hurry, it'll be on the roof! You couldn't kill it with chemicals
anyway, even if you wanted to, without killing everything else
around it.

Tom J

Ground ivy isn't hard to kill with any 3-way herbicide. The
problem is killing the shit in beds or neighbors's yards. It will
vine back.

We hit them every 6 to 8 weeks as needed.

What chemical do you use? And do you do the whole lawn or just
local?

2-4D, dicamba, and mcpp for the most part, we only treat as needed.

Also, do you think the Scotts 4-step process would be sufficient
weed prevention?

The only prevention is the pre-e crabgrass control, and the
fertilizer helps turf density..less room for weeds.

I'm pretty sure things were a lot more under control when I
was using Scotts, but I'd like to hear what you guys think...

Dave

They make a decent product, liquid weed control works a lot
better than the dry. If you continue to have vining weed
problems such as ground ivy, try some liquid weed b gone
from Ortho. It sticks to the weeds -much- better.

Some of those 'hard to kills' have a wax cuticle, so the weed
and feed powder falls off.