Your lawn may not need aeration, unless it is compacted. Do a pH test
and add lime if needed at least the rate of 500 lbs per acre. Wait
two weeks, mow low, and distribute quality seed and starter
fertilizer. The starter fertilizer is important; it feeds the young
seedlings without burn. If you don't apply the starter, your grass
will get a weak start. Put some extra seed down in the bare spots.
Lightly rake the seeds into the lawn so that the seed touches the
soil. If you can see seed on the soil, cover with a thin layer of
straw (not hay!) to keep it moist and deter birds from eating the
seed. This is the BEST(!) time of year to lay down seed. You don't
need Scott's products--the grass does not "know" brands. For lawns,
the secret is knowing what to apply and when.

On Sun, 07 Sep 2003 08:01:16 -0700, Tom Jaszewski
wrote:

On 7 Sep 2003 07:36:18 -0700, (Seymour)
wrote:

I live in southern New Jersey. My lawn is just awful, bare spots,
crabgrass, uneven ground, hard ground, black and red ants. I've spent
the last 2 years trying to improve it by fertilizing, seeding, weed
and feed, Scott's lawn soil. It seems the more I try, the worse it
gets. The crab grass halter I put down in the spring didn't do
anything.
I'm thinking of borrowing my father's Rototiller and diggin the whole
thing up and overseeding it. Anybody agree? I would think that this
is a good time to do it.
Please advise.
If you continue to "nuke" your lawn with all that crap from Scotts
you'll end up going full circle eventually ending up with the same
problems.

Rent a core aerator aerate the hell out of the lawn...at least 4
passes in diferent direction. Find a source of ACT aerated compost tea
and VAM and innoculate the soil. reseed and topdress with1/4-1/2 inch
of QUALITY compost. Halty soils and turf will outcompete weeds! Use a
mulching mower let the grass grow to the maximum height on your
mulching mower. Use organic fertilizers!

Be kind to the soil and see Scotts for what it is, marketing hype and
poison!