We grow them in the ground here in Zone 8. But we also keep some in pots for
winter blooming. After years of playing with the timing we've hit on a
fairly good pattern. Grow them with lots of water and fertilizer until mid
to late August. The number of bloom stems is directly related to the number
and size of bulb scales added and therefore also to the number and good
growth of leaves. We then dry them off completely until most foliage is
dead. Then we clean them and divide if necessary (roots can live more than 1
year- remove only dead ones), dip in insecticide for possible insects; treat
cut areas with powdered sulfur; dry some more; repot in barely most soil and
don't water (you can mist some to prevent further dehydration if that seems
to be a problem) until the tops start up. Some of ours are already sending
up bloom stems and others have some new green growth tips. Most of ours go
through multiple bloom periods this way without any further treatments. I
know some people do what we do and then refrigerate to delay the bloom stem
until the holiday season. Ours usually send up a second bloom stem around
the holiday season, so why bother with the refigerator? Plus they have a
lush green growth with the bloom instead of a naked stem.
Dwarfs will flower when about 1-1 1/2 inches across but we've rarely had a
full sized flower from a bulb less than 2 1/2 - 3" across (4-5" is better
for full sized blooms). Hope this helps you.
Gary

"llama mama" wrote in message
. ..
my amaryllis have been outside for the summer, but show no sign of dying
back yet. how do i get them ready to rest so i get blooms again?
oh, and at what age can i expect a bulblet to be big enough to bloom?
should i pot it seperately when i repot the parent? (it's 2 years old &
quarter sized)
lee