On 29 Oct 2003 11:57:13 -0800, (juggler) wrote:


--Will roots continue to grow after the oak tree is taken down? Should
the stump be grinded to prevent this? Does anyone know the behavior of
oak trees in this regard? And how deep do oak-tree roots go? Is there
a concern for the landscape or foundation (the tree is terribly close
to the house) once the roots start to die?
I second the post that says keep the tree and lose the terra cotta
plumbing. The roots won't enter plastic piping unless it is installed
incorrectly (i.e., leaks). There are a few possibilities to make this
happen:
1. trench and dig out the old line and replace. This may be fairly
innocuous or it may be devastating to the tree, depending on how close
to the trunk the line passes. I'd actually avoid this option because
of the root loss that would occur, but if you can stay at least one
foot away from the trunk for every inch of trunk diameter (measure
about 4 feet above grade) you're probably okay, and this would be the
cheapest way to go.
2. Reroute the line around the root zone (again, stay a foot from the
trunk for every inch in trunk diameter). Just leave the (now defunct)
clay pipe where it is.
4. Have the trench dug by hand, and instruct the digger not to cut any
roots bigger than 2" diameter. One way to do this is with a tool
called an air spade, which can blow the dirt out of the trench while
causing virtually no root loss. You might have to call a few
companies to find one that has this tool, or you might not find anyone
in the area that has one. It's about $1000 to buy one--still cheaper
than removing the tree. Maybe you can find a company that will do the
work if you buy the tool (www.air-spade.com). To use it, someone will
have to rent an industrial air compressor (about $150/day). Note: I
am not affiliated with this company and get no commission or other
benefit from this recommendation.
4. Tunnel under the roots if you must route the line inside the
critical root zone. This is the most expensive option (well, probably
less than buying an air spade), but still far cheaper than removing
the tree. Again, the challenge may be finding someone with the
equipment. Try well diggers (water and/or oil) if no tree services
can do it.


--And would you trust a lumber company who might be willing to take
the tree down for free? I'm concerned that they don't have the
tree-sense of a licensed arborist. I've gotten estimates from $1200 to
$2100 from arborists to take the tree down. And the lumber company may
do it for free, so that's awfully tempting. Especially considering the
plumbing costs and cost to lay down a new driveway, partially.
I'll second the post that said get references before hiring a lumber
company to remove a tree. Depending on the location, removal might be
relatively simple, but trees are still unpredictable and someone
without much experience could easily see things go horribly awry in a
hurry. Also, as was already mentioned, the lumber guys will want to
drop the trunk (maybe the whole tree) in one fell (no pun intended)
swoop. Even if it goes the right direction, this will result in more
damage to your lawn than a removal by a qualified arborist piecing out
the tree with rigging. And, again seconding another post, insurance
for this type of work is very specific (and expensive). A lumber
company probably does not have it, and you'll be on the hook for any
damages that may occur.

Why a new drive? If it must be damaged to replace part of the pipe,
this may make tunneling even more viable--tunnel under the tree and
the drive and save the cost of tree removal and the cost of the new
drive.

Good luck,

Keith Babberney
ISA Certified Arborist
For more info about the International Society of Arboriculture, please visit http://www.isa-arbor.com/home.asp.
For consumer info about tree care, visit http://www.treesaregood.com/