Maybe you can provide some details about tank such the lighting, what kind
of CO2 system, the daily CO2 levels, your dosing regimen and the amount
and
type of plants, and we can advise you on what you can do to help the
plants.

Here are some specs:

- Tank 100G
- Intake/Return pairs on each end of tank through bottom.
- Filters: Eheim 2226 and Eheim 2227 Wet/Dry.
2226 is for heating, CO2, and mechanical filtration.
2227 is for bio treatment, nitrogen cycle.
- Ebo Jager 250W Heater in Lifeguard A92-19 Heater Module.under cabinet.
- DIY CO2 injected into Heater module on 2226 return, 100% diffusion.
- (2) PowerCompact 65W 6700K lights.
- Test Kits: LaMotte, Salifert, Seachem.
- Flourite mixed into gravel with some tetra sticks.
- I have used Seachem Flourish, Potasium, Iron adders, and Vitragro, etc.
- About 16 fish right now, 5 very large angels. Pleco, 4-SAEs, 4-Octa, some
corys, etc.
- Plants, more than I can name. the swords got so big I finally had to get
rid of half of them. Crypts, some large ferns, apogeton, Valliseria, java
moss, lotus, some bush type plants I can't remember.

Temp: 80F
pH: 6.8
Ammon: 0 PPM
Nitrites: 0 PPM
Nitrates: 15PPM
Phos: 0.5 PPM
GH: 6 deg
Iron: 0.1 PPM
CO2: 25PPM

Like I said this new tank is only 6 weeks old, and I am still working on
getting the iron back up. The tank is weak right now on Nitrate and Iron.

I keep my CO2 fairly high. But if it slips for some reason,
I get an almost immediate algae outbreak, even if the CO2
is still above 20 ppm.

Yeh of course, that's because your nutients are so high.

I've been running tanks for 20 years. I know most of the things that can go
wrong, why, and how to fix them. But BBA is different. Years ago even in
tanks where the water was garbage, out of wack, I had green algae but never
any BBA. After I got BBA 5 years ago, it makes no difference how good or
bad the water is. The BBA is always there regardless. That's why I've
given up on water control for BBA.

Thanks, Chris.