We used to take near-ripe cuttings with 3 or 4 good leaves, just below
a leaf node (if you get my meaning). These were 'wounded' (removing
a thin sliver of bark) opposite the lowermost leaf bud and inserted in
deep trays of 50:50 moss peat during September. They were kept
lightly moist and in a cool humid environment (a poly-tent inside a
greenhouse kept to a winter minimum of 4C). A commercial rooting
hormone was used to speed up rooting and help prevent fungal problems.
Generally there was a 70% or higher 'take' with young plants ready for
potting during late spring.

Leaf bud cuttings can be taken when available material is very
limited. These are best taken at the end of the growing season, when
the new wood has had a chance to ripen somewhat. Using a very sharp,
sterilised knife (I've always found disposable scalpels best) careful
cut about 5mm. below the bud, up and into the stem to 5mm. past the
bud. This way you get a leaf and bud with a decent sliver of the stem
attached. Treat as above, although very gentle base heat will give
slightly better results. The risk of failure through fungal infection
is higher with this method, so a good drench of fungicide is advised.

I've had about 50%+ 'take' using this method, but it produces slightly
weaker plants that need an extra season for growing on. If you need
to build up stock quickly, its a good method, but if not, go for the
more conventional cuttings.

Dave Poole
Torquay, Coastal South Devon UK
Winter min -2°C. Summer max 34°C.
Growing season: March - November
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