TreeBay wrote:
Hi Theo,
Maybe I can help you out with the layering part of your question:
One common layering mistake with trees like elm and maple is to not
remove the living tissue down to bare wood. If you haven't done it
before, you might stop when you hit the white, pulpy portion, but you
really need to go deeper.
I see this might be the problem in fact I
cleaned it up and carved again deeper this morning
I hope is deep enough!
Another reason that layers can fail is that the thickness of the peeled
section is to narrow, and the tree self-grafts or closes over the
wound. The peeled section should be approximately as wide as the
thickness of the trunk or branch being layered at the point you are
layering it.
it was ok the peeled part only a strip of new bark was forming
from teh upper part trying to join the underneath part
The final thing I would suggest is not disturbing the layer too much to
check on it. That can tear the root initials as they develop and set
you back.
It was done in early april
I checked 3 months later yesetrday .. as normally might already have
been good to be separated and did not work
Today I carved deeper put hormons and spagnum and garden seedsling
soli so it will be more mosits and can stay over one year in this
location
If you're following all those steps, the layer should work for you if
you give it enough time, and you're in a growing season in the northern
hemisphere, of course.
I am will keep so until next year and we sill see next spring
teh bottle I put around for layering is 10 inches long and 3 width
probably will do
thanks again
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