A lurker here who reads the digest. This gives a good perspective of the
threads as you can compare the different responses for an overall view.
In this thread (which I've tagged to the original message), everyone seems
to be missing the point. Vladimir's problem is the classical potbound plant
issue of roots that go horizontal for a short way and then dive to the
bottom of the pot. His seedlings do this after 3cm (or just over 1 inch for
us on the archaic imperial system). If I read his message right, he has
tried to disguise this flaw by planting them over a rock (not a slab
planting but a "root over rock" planting). He doesn't like the look. So
he still has a root problem.
Now he wants a suggestion on how to correct his problem. He grows tropicals
out of zone, in Russia. Not conducive to ground growing. Although Russia
is a huge country, I don't believe it has tropical areas. He'll probably
have to keep his plants in pots so they can be protected during the winter.
My first reaction, like many on the list, was "cuttings". He may not have
the growing time to do this before he'll have to put his plant under the
lights again for next winter (where they'll probably sulk rather than grow).
Also, one response made reference to this plant not reacting well to the
cutting process, making a cutting of this thickness problematic. So, how
can he get better rootage on his figs?
Here's my suggestion.
1. find the biggest shallow "pot" possible, a bulb pot, a cut down nursery
pot or perhaps a wood box/tray.
2. cut one of the 4 roots off at a downward facing angle just before it
takes the vertical turn and treat that root with rooting hormone.
3. plant in a coarse growing material, perlite, fine gravel, etc. with some
organic mix added.
4. keep the plant watered as if the root was not cut, that is, just do the
standard watering, monitored with the Persiano Pick.
5. next summer, perhaps about now or a little later, repot the plant and if
the cut root has issued fine roots, then proceed by cutting two more roots
and repeating the process. The new roots can be spread if they appear to be
strong enough. If no new roots have grown then he'll know this doesn't work
for him and/or this type of fig and try something else.
6. assuming everything has gone well, two years from now the last root can
be treated and nebari development can begin in earnest.
Now I try to stay with native (read "in zone") material, so I'm no expert.
So if anyone has a better idea, improvements or corrections, I'm sure both
Vladimir and I will be happy to hear them.
Have fun - jay
Jay Beckenbach - Melrose, FL - Zone 8b/9a -
-----Original Message-----
From: Vladimir ]
Sent: Monday, June 28, 2004 8:19 AM
Subject: Nebary on fig -- how to?
Hello,
I train some 1 y.o. figs (ficus carica) grown from seeds. Those figs are
about 2-3 cm (about 1 inch) thick, during the year they were repotted twice
and cutted -- they grows very fast. I did nothing with roots.
Yesterday I tried to develop nebary: I removed the soil from first fig's
root and planned to place roots star-like, develope plain root system, etc.
However, I found 4 finger-thick roots growed horisontally for 3 cm and then
grows stright down. How to place such roots horisontally -- I can't imagine.
I placed the tree on a rock, but I don't delighted by result.
What shall I do? Gridle my trees or try to wire roots?
Thank you,
Vladimir.
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