Hmmmmm......

If the cement buffers it at its present level....and has been doing that for
several years (since it was made)....then the ph will not be why the plants
are yellowing this year! Less pressure on forcing the change.

I will add some tomato fertilizer and see what that does.

Jim

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"Go Fig" wrote in message
...
In article , Hal
wrote:

On Mon, 26 Jul 2004 06:27:45 -0500, "Jim and Phyllis Hurley"
wrote:

GH 75
KH 300
ph 9
Nitrates 0

Looks to me that the ph needs to come down and that that may be
contributing
to the problems of the WH.

How do we lower the ph effectively in a cement pond? It is in fact
higher
than usual, generally, we have been in the 8 range.

pH Down - -
Muriatic acid (31% HCl) a doses of approximately 2 fluid ounces per
1000 gallons per day until the pH is about 8.5. I would not lower the
pH below 8.5 without also testing KH (alkalinity).

It will come down, but go right back up w/out acid.

At KH of 300 and knowing its a cement pond... this pH ain't going
anywhere unless its set up to a controller and a dosing pump.

You could also paint it with a 2 part epoxy paint.

Withstanding that, I leave it alone.


jay
Mon Jul 26, 2004




Acid directly
consumes KH. If KH is lowered below ~100 mg/l, pH will become
unstable, and the pH measurements become meaningless.

Regards, Hal
http://members.cox.net/hrclark1/Index.html