Sacha wrote in message . uk...
On 12/8/04 8:08 pm, in article , "Seb
Flyte" wrote:

Last May (2003) my daughter bought me a beautiful Acer with the above label,
about 1m high. I transferred to a big pot (40 cm diameter at the top and 40
cm high) filled with a mixture of commercial compost, homemade compost and
loam soil. I put it in a sheltered spot with no direct sunlight. Despite
regular watering and feeding its leaves shrivelled and fell by mid-August.
As you remember 2003 was our Mediterranean summer in SE England and I feared
it was dead. But thankfully it came back. This year the same problem has
re-emerged , that is leaf shrivelling in July and leaf-fall now. There is no
sign of the wonderful autumn colour mentioned in the literature and I wonder
if this is the variety is not true. The initial leaves were red, turned to
green in the centre and remained that way until starting to shrivel by end
July. I have watered really a lot and it is out of direct sunlight.
What is happening? I have had shrubs faring poorly in pots and then thriving
when planted out. This would be next thing to try. But it isn't very
scientific. I really want this plant to do well and remind me of my lovely
daughter for the rest of my natural. Any help would be gratefully accepted.


I think you've answered your own question. "I've watered really a lot". Of
all trees, these seem to be the trickiest for most people to deal with.
Water it only when it is almost bone dry, let it drain well (raise the pot
from the ground) and again, water only when nearly dried out. Keep it out
of the path of any wind and then, basically, leave it alone. I don't know
where you live or in what conditions but I would guess that you could get
away with watering it only once or twice a week and not at all in winter
unless we have a very prolonged dry spell. Wet feet and wet cold feet and
wind are its great enemies.

I think this advice is confirmed by your mention that you've had other
woody plants doing badly in pots, only to recover when planted out. It
suggests a common factor may be your technique. Sacha mentions raising
the pot to assist drainage: you can use three stones, or those pot
feet you can now get everywhere.

I'd also guess (but it's only a guess) 40 cm is too big a pot: best
way is the old rule of patiently going up one size at a time, and only
when the roots have definitely reached the outside of the old pot, so
that any water you give will immediately go to the plant, rather than
hang about going stagnant. (Some people, in this group notably Franz,
ignore this rule without ill effect; but they have a watering regime
to suit.)

Another thing is that some of the pots you get these days have
ridiculously small drainage holes. I don't know a formula, but I'd
guess a 40cm pot wants the equivalent of at least eight 10mm holes in
the bottom. (Masonry drill, from outside inwards, using the gentlest
pressure, *no hammer-action!* If you can carve out a 25-30mm hole on
purpose or by accident, it'll be better than several small holes of
equivalent area, because less likely to get blocked.)

Don't forget to put a good layer of clinker, broken pots, or stones in
the bottom before the potting compost.

Mike.