Thank you Reka and Kenni!
Joanna

"Kenni Judd" wrote in message
...
"Leggy" growths are taller than the norm for the same plant grown
properly,
and usually also "soft" or "weak," and thinner than they should be. If
they
bloom in this condition, they will be top-heavy, but not all top-heavy
plants are unhealthy, soft or leggy [heck, almost all our dens are
top-heavy!].

We don't have much issue with insufficient light for the temps around
here,
but over-feeding will do the same thing -- instead of standing up
straight,
the soft leggy growths want to lean over sideways. The bright side is
that
usually they are soft enough to stand up and stake, but that's still extra
work [ring stakes won't do, since the soft growths will just bend over
it --
you actually have to stake each individual growth] and not really the best
thing for the plant.

Good growing, Kenni
"J Fortuna" wrote in message
news:eLv8d.5247$1g5.727@trnddc07...
Ray,
What exactly does 'leggy' mean. I know I've heard the term used before,
but
I don't know for sure what is meant by it? Is it the same as top-heavy?
And
come to think of it, I am not entirely sure about top heavy either
(aside
from that it tends to topple, but are all toppling plants top-heavy?) I
have
this mental image of a 'leggy' plant that attempts to stand on long leg
like
roots holding its wait on two very long roots, like legs. :-)
Joanna

"Ray" wrote in message
...
snip
If, on the other hand, the temperature is raised when there is no
solar
flux
to speak of - gray, cloudy days - one will tend to end up with leggy,
"soft"
plants that might not be able to even stand up properly (in extreme
cases).

My advice is to set your heating for maintaining a decent minimum
temperature, and let it go at that. It's better for the plants and
less
expensive, too!

--

Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies, Books, Artwork, and Lots of Free Info!
.
"Steve" wrote in message
...
Keith,
I've been following this thread and I have an opinion, even though I
don't
have a greenhouse.
Since you already have your heater system set up for day and night
temperatures, I think you should aim for a comfortable 10 degree (f)
difference between day and night. If you want to keep the night
temperatures no lower than 59f, then set the day temp for 69f. Now,
I
don't think it would be necessary, or even desirable to keep the
temperature that warm all day (unless it is up there due to
sunshine).
I
would set that timer to be on from 11 AM to 3 PM.
I would either do away with the timer for the 59 degree setting or,
if
it
is easier, set it for the 20 hours of the day that remain.
Hopefully, you will have many days where greenhouse warms beyond 69
degrees before 11 AM and the higher temperature thermostat will not
even
have to kick in.

Steve (wishing for zone 8 but more like 3)

kenty ;-) wrote:
I have a electric heater run through a thermostat controller &
probe
which
is very accurate,I have two of this set-up one for day & one for
night,both
on timers so one set-up takes over from the other,it is
automatically
done.I
just have to initially set the parameters I want,the night is set
to
59f/15c
and day has been at 71f/22c,but today was really sunny in the after
noon
so
the temp got in the 80`s.After input I have received off you guys I
am
going
to lower the day temp to 66f/19c?What do you think.I live in Robin
Hood
country,that being Nottingham,England,UK.It can get quite cold
here(zone
8)but really not that bad!My greenhouse is only a measly 10x8,but
we
all
have to start somewhere.