"jerry" g.miller@NOSPAMgmailDOTcom wrote in message ...
Yes, we've done two courses of contact pesticide (not diazinon, which is no
longer available) -- one liquid, one granular.


"Srgnt Billko" wrote in message
...

"jerry" g.miller@NOSPAMgmailDOTcom wrote in message
...
I live in southern Pennsylvania. Grubs destroyed most of my back lawn,
leaving about 3,000 sq ft in need of replacement. I got started on the
restoration myself, removing the dead turf and killing the nasty varmints
... but the job is too big for me to finish.

A contractor is proposing to do the following:

-- till the (now bare) damaged areas
-- grade
-- dethatch/rake the surrounding balance of the back lawn
-- seed the regraded section
-- overseed the dethatched area
-- return in spring to apply an early-season course of Merit to prevent a
recurrence of the grubs.

Cost quoted for all of the above is $600, and he'd do it next week. He
says
there's no need to wait for spring, plenty of good grass-growing weather
this fall.

Is this a 1) a reasonable plan, and 2) a reasonable cost?

I've had no luck in getting additional contractors to quote on the job
...
they're all too busy.


Should we assume you have already treated the area with diazinon - or are
you against using chemicals ? I used it in southern NYS and it worked for
me - but there are just a couple times a year when it works good.





Unless you have an erosion control issue, I'd wait until spring. If
you have to do it now, there is a significant chance you will need to
overseed again in the spring. The prime time to have done this was a
month ago. You need temps above 50 for the grass to germinate and
grow. If you're lucky and the weather holds up for awhile, you might
make it, but I don't think it's worth taking the chance. Another
issue is what type of grass you intend to use. Rye grass germinates
the fastest in about 5 days, fescue next at about 8 days, blue grass
can take 2-3 weeks and that's just to start growing.

I wouldn't bother removing dead turf and tilling the damaged areas
either. This only needs to be done if your going to add soil
ammendments like more topsoil or humus and in that case, the whole
area should be done. Otherwise it's a lot of work for little benefit.
I would just mow it short, rake any large amounts of debris and use a
slice seeder and overseed the whole lawn. The remaining dead grass in
those areas provides an excellent mulch material to help get the new
grass going.