"Eric Schreiber" eric at ericschreiber dot com wrote in message ...
wrote:

Nope, so go for it. When you get another species algae, you cannot use
EM against, then what? You kill one and do not correct the problem,
another will come in.

You're making an unfounded assumption about my plans. Perhaps not an
unreasonable one, but I assure you I don't plan to just continuously
treat with EM.

I know
I try to help folks grow plants, not kill algae.
Then they don't have to kill algae.
It's deceptively simple.

You have not tried this but you wanted to suggest otherwise based on
acendotal support rather than practical controlled methodology.

Forgive me, but from where I'm sitting (e.g. some random guy reading
Usenet comments from some other random guy) all suggestions are
anecdotal. Even yours, since I don't know you from Adam. While I
suppose Usenet might be considered 'peer reviewed', I think you'll
agree that it lacks scientific rigor.

Yep, big Bertha's spam and the trolls are far from rigor

What I would suggest to you is that you put together a detailed
document describing your method step by step, its benefits (and
drawbacks, if any), and the methodology you used to arrive at it. Then
put it on a web site so that people will have a better opportunity to
review and understand it. If you don't have a site of your own, I'd be
happy to put it up on mine, though it would be far better off on one of
the 'major players' sites, like Netmax's or Chucks.

It's up in many places, perhaps not this particular issue, but it's
been well argued on the APD, AQ, APC which is more rigorous than many
any other list.

I've spoken on plants with Amano so I'm no Adam.
I know my weeds and algae.

I tend to repeat rather than leave links.

I'm not asking for you to believe me really, only to try it and see
for yourself that it works, or if not, why it didn't.

As I mentioned before, I intend to try your approach should the
anti-bacterial method fail.

I doubt it will, my point is to add KNO3 after treatment or even
during treatment and thereafter to improve plant growth.

Algae/BGA's are used as bioindicators in my field and are
environmental target organisms for pollution and other water quality
indices.

They also can tell me what the nutrient patterns are in someone's tank
without seeing the tank. Freaks people out

If you want to suggest my experimenting on BGA is flawed, incorrect, I
overlooked something or questionable etc without supporting your
contention, you will get flack

I don't have a lab at my disposal, so like many hobbyists I rely on
internet research for things to try. A Google search turned up lots of
people stating that blackout doesn't work, that's all. No mention of
your method (which goes well beyond simple blackout) was made or
implied.

I tend not to let an issue(not personality) go till I have it figured
out. I understand a person just searching the web for info. I have a
ton of experience, education and it's my profession(Weeds and algae
for the State of CA) and have met hundreds, perhaps 1000's of folks in
your shoes.
I hate seeing folks suffer and there are many myths about plants.

Question - you've mention 'the plants' several times. You are referring
to higher plants, not algae, correct?

Yes, embryophytes if you want a precise term.

As in 'planted tank'? If so, I
think I mentioned that the tank where I have this problem is not
planted (except that I tossed in some Najas in an attempt to rob the
BGA of nutrients). Any specific suggestions for long-term prevention of
BGA in a non-planted tank?

Easy, chelated copper will kill all algae and many
parasites/Oomycota(ich etc).
Less light, more cleaning.

I did 50% weekly water changes for my FW fish only tanks religiously.
Never got it.
You can increase aeration/current also.

I found I could culture Pithora, a beautiful bright green hair algae
that will grow on wood and rocks under intense light and
aeration/current.
This makes good fish food and also prevents other species from
establishing.

Try water sprite also, it's a much better "competitor" since it
floats, has access to CO2/light, blocks the light better(plant's main
competitive advantage over algae) and grows like mad.
That plus some current/water changes etc works well.

Water sprite is generally easier to sell and get a fair price for vs
Najas.

Don't worry, I ain't this crotchety in person

Most of us aren't. Oddly, I'm told that I am. Years of practice.

"Well rippened"

Regards,
Tom Barr