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Old 23-11-2004, 02:50 AM
Warren
 
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wrote:
Well, I'm in southern Connecticut, and I planted Rebel Elite.


That's a brand name, and what's sold under that brand name could change
from year to year, or even geographic market to geographic market. There
should be a lable on the back of the bag that tells you what the mix in
that bag is.

In general, the first grass you see sprouting will be the annual
varieties. The perenial varieties will usually take longer. Grass seed
companies have an incentive to market mixes with lots of fast
germinating annual varieties. People want instant gratification. Once
the annual grass germinates, if the perenial grass doesn't germinate,
most people will blame themselves for not caring for the lawn.

Get your recomondations for the best mix of seed from your county
extension office. Not brand names. The mix. Then go out and find a brand
that has the closest mix to what you want. Keep in mind that the best
mix may be different in various places on your lawn, but you also need
to have some commonality in what you use, too. You don't want a
dark-blue lawn, with a sharp line where the mix changes to a
yellow-green mix. The compromises you make may not be the same as what
any specific brand name has made in their mix.

It's my first time planting a new lawn, so I'm completely working in
the dark here. There were about 3 tufts of grass left when we bought
the place, so I was over-eager to get rolling on it.

I see a few sprouts now, but i'm not hopeful.
It's a tiny little yard, at this point I'lm thinking sod :]


Well, with sod you bypass the germination issues you have with seeding,
but if you're laying sod over soil that won't support grass, or in an
area that is otherwise unsuited for grass, the eventual result will be
the same.

Some of the ideas behind (early) fall seeding a
-Soil temperature is often warmer than in spring
-Mother Nature will assist with the watering
-The turf has time to establish a hearty root system before the
summer heat

If you wait too long, the soil won't be warm enough for germination. If
you don't have germination, the game is over.

Also, if you over-fertilize, you'll reduce germination, and essentially
compost the seed. If you do fertilize, make sure you use a fertilizer
that has a low nitrogen level (the first of the three numbers).
Time-released granules would be best, too. Personally, I don't fertilize
when over-seeding in early fall. (I do use a "winterizer" fertilizer in
late fall, but only at about 1/2 the manufacturer's recommended
application rate.)

As for your "hay", hopefully it is not full of seed. I never can
remember the difference between hay and straw, but hopefully you got the
right thing -- the one without seed in it. Assuming it doesn't have any
seed in it. leave it in place for the winter. It'll help prevent
erosion, and will add some organic material to the soil as it breaks
down.

When spring comes, watch to see if you get any germination as the soil
warms up. That's going to be quite late in spring. The air temperature
will be warm long before the soil warms up enough for germination. If
you jump the gun in spring, you won't see anything happen even if you
completely re-seed.

And of course the downside is that once the soil gets warm enough,
Mother Nature isn't as inclined to help with the watering. But if you
hit the window right, you can have a reasonably established lawn by the
time the real heat comes in summer. Either way, I'd make plans to
over-seed again in *early* fall next year.

--
Warren H.

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