On Sun, 06 Feb 2005 15:25:42 -0800, Eric wrote:

wrote:

To the good advice already given, I'd add only water as much as
necessary. Too much water, keeping a lawn wet, promotes disease and
fungus which can kill grass. I'd start the watering so that it ends
by about 8am or so. That minimizes loss to evaporation, but allows the
lawn to dry out soon too.

For grass, IMO, the new fine blade, slower growing, tall fescues
should be very good for your area. I reseeded my lawn here in NJ with
a combo of duster tall fescue and blue grass this past fall. I grew a
test sample of duster indoors, and it grows much slower than a typica
tall fescue, like the Rebel varities, for example. I had tall fescue
previously that performed well, except during periods of peak growth,
it needed to be cut about every 4-5 days, which was a pain.

This spring, I'll see how well it comes out, but so far, it looks
pretty good. There's lots of good info on grass seed at seedland.com

Whatever i choose I'd very much like it to crowd out weeds and moss.
Here in the NW moss is a terrible problem, it will even grow on your car
if your not careful, the seams around my car door handle are green by
spring. The grass up here needs a lot of water, its grown for so long in
this wet climate it just needs it. In the summer its quite dry so if you
don't water your lawn will just role over and die (I speak from
experience) I'll check out seedlan.com
Thanks
Eric

Good day Eric, I manage many lawns here in the PNW and will tell you right
now, your not going to find a grass to compete with the moss.

Things that will help (*your mileage may vary though*) is to keep the lawn
2.5 to 3 inches long. This will help to keep the moss from recieving light
to grow. Besides that, your lawn will consume less water in our seasonal
drought in July.

No matter what many people say, moss is almost always caused by our lack
of drainage here in the pnw. Redirecting a downspout here, a french tile
there and you maybe very surprised how the lawn area will respond.

The best (imho) way to reduce moss is to aerate the lawn area once a year.
This will help to promote drainage and help to change the culture of the
lawn area so moss can't survive as well.

As far as grass seed goes, find a local cenex farmer's co-op supply. They
carry a nice tall fescue called "crew cut". Tops out at 13 inches tall and
(at least they say) roots upto 3 feet deep. No matter what, this grass
browns off the last compared to other client's lawns, so it must root
rather deeply. I've used this seed on many summer cabins out on the island
where the lawns aren't kept up. They seem to pull through with 3 mows a
year and no watering.

Good Luck.
--
Yard Works Gardening Co.
http://www.ywgc.com