"Ornata" wrote
I've ordered some seeds of Musa sikkimensis. I've read that bananas
need high temperatures for successful germination (30-35 degrees C). I
don't think my rather basic heated propagators will reach this
temperature. Does anybody have any tips for getting good germination?

Very high temperatures are almost obligatory for getting a good
germination from most species of banana (Musa). Musa sikkimensis
needs at least 30C to get it going and 35C is even better. However,
you'll be glad to hear that once it is well established, it is fairly
hardy, depending upon the strain you have or the provenance of the
seeds. Here in South Devon, I have a nice clump with about 12 'trunks'
that regularly exceeds 25 feet each summer. This winter, it retained
most of its leaves and it never gets any protection. In your part of
the world, you might need to insulate the 'trunks' from November -
March. Your best bet is to soak the seeds for at least 3 days
(preferably 5) in tepid water, changing with fresh every day and then
sow 1" deep in moist perlite.

Seal the pot in a poly-bag and place in an airing cupboard, close to
the immersion heater. Inspect the seeds at least once a week and make
sure that the perlite does not become too dry. Depending upon the
freshness of the seed, germination can occur at any stage between 14 -
120 days!!! When shoots appear, gradually inure them to full light
and lower temperatures. Prick out into a mix of equal parts
sterilised multi-purpose and perlite once the first leaf starts to
unfold.

When growing strongly, pot on to a 3" pot using straight multi-purpose
and once the roots start to appear through the drainage holes, pot on
again, but this time into a 6" pot with equal parts multi-purpose and
JI no 2. After that pot on as necessary, lavish all the care, feed
and moisture you can and stand back. Bananas are lovers of heavy
feeding and when growing well, you simply cannot overwater or overfeed
them - provided temperatures and sunlight are at a maximum.

Another question: how do you overwinter your outdoor-planted bananas?
I think I've made a big mistake with my existing banana plant - an
Ensete ventricosum planted out in my south London garden. I had the
idea that this variety was root hardy, but have since read that it
isn't. I've wrapped it in fleece (which the foxes keep pulling off -
the devils) and given it a hat to keep the rain off, but I'm really
not too confident that it will survive even our mild winter.

It all depends. Its been an exceptionally mild (non) winter in many
regions (here - just one short lived frost to minus 1.5C all winter)
and Ensete ventricosum is a darned sight tougher than many writers
would have you believe. There's a fair chance that your plant will
have survived. Since it does not need the big spring heat-surges that
many Musas require to start them growing, you may be pleasantly
surprised to see new leaves peeking out within a month or so. Just
sit and wait it out. If the stump becomes totally soft, mushy and
smelly, it has died. If it remains firm - especially close to the
base, it has survived and should make a good recovery.

I read
that a good method of protection is to build an enclosure and stuff it
with straw; are there better methods?

No, really good air circulation is essential to prevent rot setting
in. Just try to keep the worst of the winter rains away from the
centre of the plant.

I've also just bought an Ensete
ventricosum 'Maurelii' (Red Abyssinian Banana) from Mulu, which I'll
plant out in April/May. I think its reddish leaves are going to look
stunning with the sunlight through them... but I'll try to give it
better winter protection.

In my experience, the variety 'Maurelii' is more cold hardy than the
plain species, so giving it the same level of protection should be
fine. Just remember, that if air temperatures remain above minus 6C
with the level of protection you are planning, forms of Ensete
ventricosum are likely to survive and increase in size. But then
that's another problem - they get absolutely massive. They need no
protection at all here in South Devon and grow like the blazes. I
gave up on a 16 footer recently, because it grew to almost the same
across - and that after only 36 months from sowing!!!

Just an afterthought, David Constantine at Koba-Koba in Somerset is
the biggest Musa suppliers in the UK and he now stocks a related
variety to 'Maurelii' known as 'Montbeliardii'. It is not quite so
darkly coloured, but makes up for this by being more slender and
infinitely more elegant. 'Maurelii' grows fat and squat, whereas
'Montbeliardii' makes a lovely and impressive spire of richly flushed
foliage. A much better plant IMO.

Any advice on banana germination or overwintering gratefully received.
Ornata

In theory, Musa ornata should be nearly as tough as Musa basjoo, but
sadly it ain't. It can reshoot from its underground rhizome, but
needs really good spring heat to persuade it to wake up properly if it
is knocked back. Ideally it needs frost free or (even better -
maintaining at no less than 3C) if it is to do really well and flower
reliably. Its a lovely species, but I've tried many forms over the
past 5 years and none are happy with prolonged exposures of low to
near zero temperatures unless they are kept moderately dry and given a
sudden surge of early heat to start them off again.

Kept in a frost free or slightly heated greenhouse, plants will
develop into nice compact clumps, topped in late summer by impressive
spikes of pink, reddish or purple bracted flowers. Musa ornata is a
very fine 'tub plant', but needs to be planted very close to a warm
sunny wall and lavishly insulated if it is to survive permanently out
of doors. The closely related Musa mannii is a bit more resilient,
but needs to be grown to a decent size before risking permanently out
of doors. 3 years old and filling a 12- 14" tub is about right.

Hope that helps.
Dave Poole
Torquay, Coastal South Devon UK
Winter min -2°C. Summer max 34°C.
Growing season: March - November