View Single Post
  #4   Report Post  
Old 13-02-2005, 05:13 AM
NetMax
 
Posts: n/a
Default

"Bill Stock" wrote in message
...

"NetMax" wrote in message
...
"Bill Stock" wrote in message
...
I'm looking for some info on drip irrigation parts. I'll be setting
up a continuous water change system down the road (tank needs moved
first), so I'm doing a bit of research. I've seen that some people
use a pressure regulator valve and others use a "drip irrigation
controller". I gather the drip irrigation controller is more precise
and more expensive. Perhaps someone can give me the details of their
setup and the pros and cons of the two methods. Also where to buy
parts, HD for a water pressure valve?

My plan is two use a water pressure regulator, water filter with GAC
cartridges, siphon overflow and a solenoid with float switch for
backup. BTW, should the pressure regulator go before or after the
water filter? I may also have to add an auto doser for dechlor, but
I'll have to do some testing first.

TIA



Use activated carbon to de-chlor. For chloramines, carbon still
works, but Centaur carbon would be the recommended choice (there are
many carbon grades available). You want about 2.5gpm or slower for
carbon to de-chlor. Position the carbon filter downstream of other
filters as carbon will exhaust itself on other contaminants as well.


LOL, I only need about 10 gpd, so GAC s/b good. Although the GF do like
their fresh water.


Oops on 2.5gpm. I was just copying notes from when I was last
researching this. At the time I had the water changer running 10 minutes
4 times a day on 4 banks (one at a time), and I was hitting 5gpm, so I
had to throttle the entire system down (or increase my carbon bed to 2
sq.ft.), but I was doing 27 tanks at a time. If you are doing less
tanks, or are using a low pressure continous drip, then that spec is not
applicable to you. For home use, I prefer the continuous drip with a
reserve capacity (before overflow) of about 24 to 36 hours. As long as
I'm home once a day, I'll catch a non-critical failure (usually a clog in
the siphons). Of course you can install overflow cut-offs, but it's nice
to have system redundancy.

Also on the GAC, get a chlorine tester. There is no accurate method of
predicting the usable life expectancy of carbon as the
chlorine/chloramine and other contaminents can vary significantly, even
by season in the same location. We generally counted on 12 months of
life, but chlorine tests showed we got more than that (of course this
varies by your water, type of carbon and cc's of carbon used).
--
www.NetMax.tk


Research automatic lawn sprinkler systems for a bevy of applicable
components (controllers, valves etc).


Thanks NetMax, helpful as always. Some of the irrigation stuff is quite
cheap compared to aquarium products.

--
www.NetMax.tk