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Old 26-03-2005, 06:00 PM
Marty Haber
 
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Well said, Billy. I just had an interesting pot story develop. In removing
a drum, unglazed pot from the ground, the upper part separated cleanly from
the bottom, leaving two cleanly divided parts. In didn't crack, just
separated. It was probably made as slabs but wasn't fired correctly.
Anyway, the tree wasn't damaged, because the two parts held together while
in the ground.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Billy M. Rhodes"
To:
Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2005 7:14 AM
Subject: [IBC] Bonsai Pot Selection


For review and comment by the group:

Bonsai Pot Selection
Mechanics, Quality and Price
Some Random Thoughts on the purchase of Bonsai Pots

First and foremost Bonsai pot selection is a matter of art and design.
The size, shape, color, design etc., of the pot is an artistic decision.
But, this little essay is about the rest of it. In my experience, all
in
Florida where pots freezing is not usually a factor and with a preference
for
unglazed pottery, there is a wide range in pot quality based upon the
mechanics of the pot's manufacture.
Of course a Bonsai pot must have drainage holes and two are better than
one, because it makes wiring the tree in the pot easier. Larger pots
should
have additional drainage holes and, at least, four smaller holes for tie
down
wires.
First, the pot should sit flat. Put the pot on an even surface, does it
rock back and forth, because one foot is a little too high? Sometimes this
can
be easily corrected by carefully removing a bit of clay from one foot.
Sometimes another pot from the same box and of the same design will be OK.
Second the bottom of the pot should be flat inside, or with a slight
dip
toward the drain holes. A pot with a bowed or bulging center should be
avoided
because it will not drain well. (A pot with a center bulge might be OK for
a
species that isn't as fussy about drainage such as Ficus, especially if
the
price is right.)
Likewise a pot with holes over the legs should be avoided for the same
reasons.
Look at the drain holes. Are their edges smooth or do they have ridges
of
clay around them? Again this will affect drainage.
Look at the evenness of shape. Is the oval even or lopsided? Look at other
shapes the same way. Is the circular pot round? Are the sides even on a
rectangular or square pot?
Inside rims and lips that allow soil and roots to get under them make
repotting more difficult. Ideally the sides of Bonsai pot should taper out
slightly
to make it easier to remove the tree from the pot.
A difficult quality to assess is the porosity of the clay. Plan terra
cotta
flower pots tend to be very porous and allow fertilizer and other water
borne
salts to leach to the outside of the pot resulting in a white, chalky
reside on
the outside of the pot. Sometimes Bonsai pots will also be too porous with
the same result. I have purchased what I though looked like high fired,
hard
pots only to be disappointed by the appearance of the salts on the surface
after
only a few months. These deposits can sometimes be temporarily removed for
display but getting them out of etched or other outside pot surface
designs can
be very difficult.
Porosity will also affect winter hardiness of the pot. If a pot holds
moisture, it will break when that moisture freezes.
Whether the inside finish of a pot is smooth or rough probably doesn't
matter.
All of these factors and more speak to the quality of the pot. The higher
quality pot will be more expensive. The better pot might be as much as
four times
the price of a lesser quality pot.

Billy on the Florida Space Coast

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-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --

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************************************************** ******************************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Edmund Castillo++++
************************************************** ******************************
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ:
http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++