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Old 01-04-2005, 03:16 AM
Anita Hawkins
 
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Hi Adam aka Scooter

I have to disagree (respectfully, of course!) with Marty on this - Am.
red maples (Acer rubrum) are NOT a waste of time! Probably less ideal
than Japanese maples (A. palmatum), yes, due to a somewhat larger
leaf, and longer petioles (leafstalks) which don't pull leaves in as
close to the branches as the A. p. And, since it hasn't been
bonsai-cultured for centuries, its responses to training are likely to
be less predictable than the A. p.'s. Just think of making it a
medium-size tree, not a tiny one (tho go for tiny if that's what
really appeals to you). Or, take a hint from the Japanese, and plan on
optimizing the design to exhibit it with either flowers or barely-open
spring leaves.

But A. rubrum has some major pluses: easily collectable in most of the
Eastern US, and cheap if buying nursery stock. It's a tolerant plant
in general, not disease prone or delicate. Craig has a number in pots
and they seem to do very well, good roots in culture. Stunning fall
color, of course, and around this time of year in the Mid-Atlantic
orange-to-red-to-nearly violet flower clusters. One advantage of
bonsai is you can admire such tiny tree flowers at close range, rather
than trying to spy them at highway speeds, towering 50 feet above you.

Our own Jim Lewis has written an excellent article hosted at our
friend Brent's excellent website,
http://www.evergreengardenworks.com/redmaple.htm

It certainly sprouts back from bare trunks (in answer to your question
about "trunk chopping," the bonsai term for whacking down a 6 ft tree
to begin bonsai training). Bring a bowsaw so you can do it at the
store - it's such fun to watch their jaws drop and so much easier
to fit into your vehicle... but, ummm... pay for it first

You won't have to thread graft unless you really want to put a branch
in a particular place exactly.

Oh, and when choosing which tree, look mostly at the base of the
trunk: does it spread out to a bit of a flare at the base, or is it
one-sided or awkward? Is the lower 12-18 inches of trunk shapely
(straight or curved depending on your planned style), hopefully with a
little taper? Any heavy lower branches you can use to make a new
trunk, or that would make an ugly scar if removed? If still unsure
between 2 or more trees, look also at the leaves (if they're out) or
branching: choose te one with smaller leaves, or with finer/more
delicate/ denser twigging.

Best of luck,
Anita
Northern Harford County, Maryland, USA, zone 6/
Lower Hudson Valley, New York, USA, zone 5

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