"Elaine T" wrote in message
...
Sandy Birrell wrote:
Gill Passman wrote:

"Elaine T" wrote in message
. com...

I'm setting up a 15gal tall replacement for my 5 gallon tank.
It's a very tall Oceanic Eclipse tank (20"x10"x20" high) and I
thought an asymmetric V shape with two pieces of plant-covered
bogwood would make a beautiful Amano style setup. I've found two
pieces of long, 3" wood but they're rather heavy and difficult to
prop in place to make the V. I'm afraid they'll fall and break
the glass.

My first thought was to silicone them to the glass, but they'll be
hard to clean around. Burying the ends in the substrate might
work, but I'm not sure enough to risk the glass trying it. I
would use rocks at the base of the wood in a bigger tank but I
don't want to lose any more substrate room, because I want heavy
plantings. My favorite thought so far is to support the wood with
a plexiglass rod, concealed in plantings. I could drill into the
high end of the wood and set a vertical rod in the wood that would
sit on the bottom of the tank and support the wood to keep it from
sliding down. Does this sound workable?

Has anyone tried to arrange bogwood propped at sharp angles
against tank glass? How did you do it? I'm open to all ideas
because I'm not sure I like any of mine.

--
Elaine T __
http://eethomp.com/fish.html '__
rec.aquaria.* FAQ http://faq.thekrib.com

Congrats on the new tank :-)

I've got two very large pieces of bogwood in one of the tanks. I
just put it in - it hasn't moved (unless I've moved it during
cleaning) for 9 months. It does rest against the glass in places -
mainly because of it's size.

Gill


Get a piece of perspex or glass cut to slightly smaller than the
internal dimensions of your tank, silicone the pirces of wood to this
and place it in the tank then cover with your substrate, that should
hold them.

That sounds MUCH easier. Thanks!

--
Elaine T __
http://eethomp.com/fish.html '__


Using a hacksaw, cut off the ends so they are flat against the base of
the tank, and at the desired angle. Then take an inert material (slate,
plastic etc) and drill slightly oversize holes through, and then drill
smaller holes through the wood. Purchase some stainless steel wood
screws to fit. Slate bases are better for dealing with very buoyant
driftwood, otherwise plastic will suffice, if you can pile enough gravel
and rocks on it (sand doesn't usually work as it gets sucked under).

You can also simply screw pieces to themselves (use the tank cover to
hold them down, sometimes looking like tree roots reaching down by not
touching the bottom). Use your discretion as the buoyancy might push the
cover upwards. I've also used driftwood on slate bases like this, with
the slate ty-rapped to the cover.

I often took pieces off their slate bases and re-attached them sideways
(to make tiers). Sometimes I could use the same base (or that piece of
wood) to anchor other pieces.

In regards to the distance between the wood tip and the glass, avoid a
slight gap (fish swim into it and get wedged). No gap and you often have
some growth/detritus/algae/fungus accumulation where it contacts the
glass, so use your discretion if you think this is manageable or not. If
leaving a gap, try to leave double the width of the widest fish. hth
--
www.NetMax.tk