"Renee" wrote in message
. ..
"Renee" wrote in message
...
I posted a photo of the problem I'm having with some of my rose bushes at
http://photofan.multiply.com/photos/photo/13/1.jpg

It's going to be a couple of days before I can get a sample over to my
local nursery so I thought I'd ask here first.

Does anyone know what the problem might be? Do I need to treat it with
something?

The other day I noticed some tiny white specs on some of the leaves and
buds. I had a rose insecticide spray handy that I'd had for quite some
time, so I shook it up and used it to spray the bushes. Could old
insecticide have caused this? Could spraying in too hot Florida weather
have caused this?

I spray regularly with fungicide and it doesn't look like black spot.

Thanks in advance for your help

Renee

Thanks everyone for your replies. I should have retaken the photo in
daylight because the white stuff you saw on the leaf, Presley, was
actually the reflection from my camera flash. I feel silly for having
missed that! It was actually the brown spot that I was concerned about.

I made it to the nursery and someone looked at some samples, and though
she didn't say definitively, she thought it might be burn like you did,
Sunflower. I did not spray in the early morning as you suggest. Also, she
told me that watering roses in the heat of the day could stress them, too.
I wasn't aware of that -- if it's true(?).

I picked up some fresh spray -- Triple Action plus RTU by Fertilome -- an
insecticide, miticide, and fungicide in one. It's premixed in a spray
bottle. I like being able to just pull it out the cabinet in the morning
and be ready to go with no fuss. I plan on using that only periodically
when I see insects, and alternating that with my weekly copper fungicide
spraying if it's necessary to use it. It's still early and cool enough
right now so I'm on my way out to try the new spray and will closely watch
how my roses react to it in the coming days.

Thanks again.

Renee

Copper sprays often burn roses and are not really recommended beyond a
narrow temperature range. Fungicides, to be effective, must be applied as a
*preventative* on a regular schedule. That schedule is printed on the
bottle, as is the diltution rate. Using an all in one is overkill and
ineffective. I've yet to see any all in one that does any of the components
at all well. If you keep using the regimen you've outlines, you're going to
fry all of your foliage and end up with a huge spider mite infestation.