Thanks for the feedback. I was able to do the research, and it seems that
"properly cooked" doesn't quite do it for commercial or home composters.
Seems there's a set-aside time also required. It's that resting period I'm
trying to determine.
Clopyralid damage is seen in use from home composted materials, largely from
those who add material from lawns serviced by commercial firms. In addition,
I was quite surprised to see that Washington State Agriculture warned about
the use of straw and manure on sensitive crops (peas, beans and tomatoes) --
exactly where I was seeing cupping.
Can never rest when it comes to staying current on horticultural practices.
There's always something new. And things are always so simple.

"Pam" wrote in message
...
There are a couple of extremely persistant herbicides
that do not breakdown properly through the composting process (clopyralid
primarily, and another whose names escapes me), but these are used mostly
in
agricultural situations and such a flap has been raised about them
recently that
most commercial compost has been tested to make sure they are not present.
They
tend to affect plants in only certain families, anyway (largely edible
crops)
and any woody ornamentals are pretty much immune.

Just make sure your compost is properly "cooked" - that will adequately
remove
any lingering effects of pesticides as well as neutralize most disease
pathogens.

pam - gardengal