On Fri, 29 Jul 2005 22:01:22 -0500, Melissa
wrote:

We live in the Denver area.

I got some bare root rose bushes from Jackson Perkins about a
month ago, and planted them. Most are doing ok, but a couple have
this problem where the leaves are turning a dark brownish color
and then get crackly and die.

http://dim.com/~melissa/photos/Roses...%207-29-05.JPG

I put them in 2' tall 2' wide planters made of old highway guard
rails and the planters get pretty hot, but I put in a drip water
system. I'm not sure if some of them just aren't getting enough
water or if this is a bug or disease.

I usually also put fine cedar mulch around them but haven't
gotten to it yet. I started doing some tonight. That usually
keeps out a lot of what eats them ( I also use coffee grounds )
and keeps the water in the soil more. I need to finish that over
the weekend.

Does anyone have any idea what this is?

A couple of comments.

First of all, you need to prune awayyour blooms. Right now, the rose
is struggling to get established, especially since you planted them
right in the middle of summer. By pruning the blooms, you'll transfer
energy that the plant is expending trying to support them to the root
system. The main thing is to create a good basis for the future of the
plant. The first year or two is key to the establisment of a healthy
rose bush and that key is a strong root system.

Since you've only got a month or so left of serious growing season,
give up the idea of extensive blooms. Your plant will thank you in a
year or two with a profusion of blooms. I'm not saying that you can't
have a bloom or two, but remember that you're in this for the long
haul and you got started waaaay too late this year.

Also, since you're in Denver, I'd STRONGLY suggest that you get the
bud union under ground. The bud union is that mass of woody stuff that
the stems are coming from. Here in the South, we can get away with
having the bud union above ground, in fact, we sometimes choose to
have it prety close to being above ground level because of the heat
and dampness that can enocurage fungal infection. But you don't have
to worry so much about that. I'd cover that bud union with mulch,
which shouldn't hurt it now and will protect it when your temps get
low. I know that Denver isn't as "arctic" as some people think it is,
however, you have some goood snows and lots of prolonged stretches of
below freezing temps in the winter, so you'll need to protect your bud
union. If it gets hit with ice and snow, you can kiss it goodbye. I
think that all you need to do is put enough mulch to cover it with an
inch of material. Also, that dead stem on the left needs to go. Get a
good sharp offset pruner and lop it off about 1/4 inch from the bud
union.

Also, you have canker starting. On those canes that show a blackening
of the stem, make sure that you prune them back at least a couple of
inches. Prune above an active or inactive bud. If you don't know what
to look for, look for a healthy cane growing out of the cane, *or* a
swelling of the cane. Make sure you cut at an angle and not straight
across. Cut about 1/4 inch above such a bud or stem. The stem in the
middle that's growing at about 45 degrees might not be able to be
saved. However, you might try cutting it below that stem that's coming
out on the right. I don't think you've got enough cane to save that
branch, so let it go.

Good luck to you. Stop fertilizing it now and when winter comes, you
might want to give it 3 or 4 inches more of mulch. You can mound it up
a bit. This will protect it from cold wind, ice and snow. Just leave
the pruned canes exposed. They won't mind so much. Don't leave more
than a foot of cane though. In fact, I'd almost recommend pruning them
back to about 8 inches.

Hope this helps...