GardenBanter.co.uk - View Single Post

19-09-2005, 06:59 AM

In article , says...

"George Pontis" wrote in message
t...
In article , says...

For calibration, I just tried this experiment on an aquarium that has a
CO2 flow
rate of 2-3 bubbles per second. I left the CO2 flowing normally into the
aquarium
with the cylinder valve closed. Over several minutes there was no
observable
change in the primary pressure. I think you would see a big drop in one
minute
with the leakage that you are experiencing.

George

The above suggestion was very helpful.

With the solenoid open and the valve closed, the gauges lost pressure almost
immediately. The leak is happening where the bubble counter screws on to the
needle valve. I can't tighten the BC any further, so I need another
solution. Will Loctite solve my problem or is there a better solution?

Glad to hear that you have reduced the problem to some leaks.

I am a little surprised that you would find a significant leak at the bubble
counter, which is after the needle valve on my Milwaukee system. Anything after
the needle valve, I would expect that it would be throttled back. Could it
possibly be between the regulator output and needle valve input ?

Oh well. If the leak is at a metal to metal fitting then I would not hesitate to
use a commercial pipe thread sealer. Around here, the Home Depot sells tubes of
RectorSeal, which I think would work well. The ideal amount is quite small and you
are supposed to try to avoid the first few threads so the material does not get
into the working fluid, CO2 in this case.

If the leak is where the plastic cylinder meets the metal fitting, then I would
try some silicone grease. It is sold for lubricating faucets and sliding valves.
Be sure that it says silicone and not some generic grease. This stuff is also
useful for lubricating o-rings, and getting hoses to fit over barb fittings that
are a little too big.

George