"Tumbleweed" wrote in message
...

"Dave Poole" wrote in message
...
Nick Maclaren wrote:

Don't hold your breath. I have got one to germinate, but damned
if I can repeat the effect.

Here's the easy way:

1) Eat dates yourself or feed the fleshy parts to pet dog, parrot,
pot-bellied pig, capuchin monkey, significant other or any other
omnivore/fructivore.

2) Carefully scrape of any flesh that remains and then gently scrub
the seed clean with a scouring pad (Jif are good). If possible, add
10ml. of common, unscented. household bleach (must be 'straight'
sodium hypochlorite - no additives) to 500ml. water and soak prepared
seeds in this for 30 mins. This is not essential, but it helps to get
rd of any remaining bacteria.

3) Soak the seeds for 10 days in a container of warm water, kept warm
by placing on/close to a radiator. Water temperature can be quite
warm - up to 38C. Change water daily to prevent bacterial build up.

4) Place soaked seeds in a plastic bag of barely moist perlite, seal
tightly and place bag in airing cupboard or any other very warm spot.
Ideal temps are 35 -38C, falling to 20 - 25C periodically. Room
temperature in a moderately warm house will do, but be prepared to
wait a long time.

5) Carefully inspect seeds every 5 - 7 days. You are looking for a
white root-like growth emerging from the side of the seed opposite
the 'crease'. This usually starts to appear as a tiny 'pimple' after
20 -30 days. When it grows to 5mm. or so long, you can go to stage 6.
***Great care is needed - the slightest damage to the tip of this
'growth', will result in the death of the seedling.

6) Handling them extremely carefully, sow the germinated seeds
horizontally in small pots, just below the surface of a
heat-sterilised (microwaved) then cooled mixture of 2 parts perlite :
1 part multi-purpose. Do not use John Innes or 'any old
compost/soil'. Water well and drain thoroughly.

7) Place pot of seeds in a plastic bag, seal and return to airing
cupboard or a warm spot, heated prop tray, mat etc.

8) When shoots appear above compost, bring out into the light, but
keep the bag sealed for a week. Open bag and 'harden' seedlings to
the lower humidity and temperatures.

9) Allow the seedlings to continue growing for several months
maintaining temperatures above 21C and keep in bright, filtered light,
The first leaves are strap-like (adult 'fronds do not appear for the
first 18-36 months), each new leaf becoming wider than its
predecessor. The 'straps' can grow to 45 cms. long and 4 cms wide.

10) When the second seedling leaves have grown to full length
(usually about 20 - 25 cms.) carefully tip the seedlings out of the
pot, gently shaking the old compost away from the roots. Pot
individually into 8 - 10cm. diameter pots using equal parts perlite/
multi-purpose. When the third leaf is part-way grown, commence
feeding every month with a general purpose liquid feed.

It sounds complicated, but in practice it is very simple and once past
the first leaf stage, growing them is more or less plain sailing.
Don't keep them sopping wet, don't let them get bone dry, keep in a
bright spot and don't subject them to very low temperatures.

At the second potting, you can introduce a loam based compost - 2
parts multi-purpose: 1 part John Innes No 2 ; I part perlite and if
you can get hold of those deep pots used by nurseries for climbers
such as Clematis (garden centres usually have plenty knocking around)
so much the better. Within a few years, the leaves will change to
the adult 'fronds' and you'll have your very own, fully fledged date
palm.



Blimey, how do they ever grow in the wild?

--
Tumbleweed

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Easier to buy them from the Cash and Carry :-))