Gerry,
Sorry I don't have a good link to a web site but teh RHS
http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile...plepruning.asp

I can say that the RHS Encyclopedia of Gardening and the RHS book
called Fruit by Harry Baker have good sections on fruit pruning, are
much better and more helpful.

A couple of important things about pruning are often overlooked, or
rather not mentioned.
1. Why are you pruning
2. What is the effect of the pruning cut (rarely explained)
3. What kind of apple tree have you got and how it fruits.
4. Recognise your buds. What a fruit bud looks like and what a growth
bud looks like
suitable link
http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile..._fruit_bud.asp

As far as 3 goes, what kind of tree you are pruning? Most apples are
spur bearers, that is to say they produce the apples on little side
branches spurs. A few are tip beares, such as Crawley Beauty, that
produce fruit at the very tip of the branch. Then there are partial
tip beares - ones that do both. Tip bearers are not suitable for
cordons, as all the summer pruning removes the fruit buds.

Generally, winter pruning is to encourage growth and summer pruning to
promote fruiting. However winter pruning can encourage fruiting.
Nothing is cast in stone when it comes to rules and plant behaviour

Pruning looks to encourage fruiting, maintaining / creating air
movement through the crown or it can be to produce growth, as in
renewal pruning.
If you follow the regular advise for winter pruning, removed dead
diseased, dying, crossing branches and reducing last years leader
growth by 1/3rd you won't go far wrong.
Just remeber that if you have a tip bearer, reducing last years growth
by 1/3rd, removed fruit buds, so will loose fruit! So don't.
Clifford
Bawtry, Doncaster, South Yorkshire

You need