and in wisconsin you can get milorganite. perfect for the lawn. Ingrid

Kay Lancaster wrote:

On Fri, 31 Mar 2006 18:42:26 -0600, d wrote:
Hi all,

We moved into a new home last November and the builder sodded the front
for us around October. With Spring fast approaching in Wisconsin, I'm
wondering how frequently I will need to water now 4-5 month old sod.

Go out and try to lift some of the sod. If it doesn't lift easily, cut
a plug and see how far the roots have reached into the soil. If it's not
much more than an inch into your soil, I'd figure on applying an average
of an inch a water a week all summer. (that's exclusive of rain... so
if you get half an inch of rain in a week, put half an inch of water on
with sprinklers). If roots are 2-3" down, skipping a week now and then
won't be too tough on it most likely, but you don't want it to go dormant.

If the sod lifts easily, I'd figure on babying it all summer long, and
well into next fall.

Remember to water deeply, soaking the root zone and down a bit further,
instead of just moistening the top bit of soil.

Same goes for fertilizing--how soon is too soon?

Did you have a soil test done before sodding? If so, I'd look at those
recommendations, and follow them up -- though I'd throttle way back on the
nitrogen. If you didn't do a soils test, I'd be inclined to give it
a very light feeding of something like 10-10-10 or 10-15-15 now, and
watch the response. I'd save the high N stuff till next year. This year,
you're looking for good roots, not grass blades leaping upwards in height.
I prefer multiple light feedings of commercial fertilizer to occasional
heavy fertilizations. With organic fertilizers, that's less of an issue.

My personal rule for fertilizer applications: 1/4 as much at a time,
2-3x more often than recommended... has always worked well for me.

Mulch the clippings back onto the lawn, and mow often with a sharp blade.
Mark a couple of lines on a wooden stake: one at 3.5" and one at 4" above
soil level. Set the mower blade to 3". When the grass is up to the 3.5"
mark, you should mow. At 4", you must mow -- do it religiously this year.
If the blades of the grass start looking chewed at the tip instead of cut,
sharpen the blade again.

Kay, who's either going to have to drive a mower over 2 acres of
last-fall-seeded-grass on heavy, wet clay soil soon, or rent a sheep...
or trim it by hand.



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