x-suspended algae. It is important to remember that the green algae you see is
x-not bad. It is only a visual nuisance. The green, fuzzy algae on the sides
x-of the pond is good algae and helps to balance the pond.
x-
x-
x-
x-Some people claim that a high algae content in the water actually improves
x-the color of fish. Your best remedy is to add plants of all aquatic types.
x-Plants such as water lilies which have spreading pads shade the water
x-depriving the algae of sunlight it needs to survive. Underwater plants and
x-floating plants with free roots absorb nutrients directly from the water.
x-Various bog and veggie plants filter some of the excess nutrients that feed
x-the algae. Since algae is the simplest plant form in your pond it will not
x-be able to compete with these higher order plants for nutrients and will
x-die.
x-
x-
x-
x-If the bottom of your pond is covered with submerged plants you will rarely
x-have green water. Determine the maximum number of fish your pond can support
x-and aim for several fewer than that. Do not change your water unless you
x-know contaminants have entered your pond. To change your water is to begin
x-again with a new algal problem. Your pond must be established in order to
x-fight the algae. The best advice is to be patient!
x-
x-
x-
x-Finally, all ponds naturally get green from time to time. Spring time is a
x-good example. Before the plants fill out the fish are beginning to resume
x-their active life styles and the sun is heating up. Algae are delighted by
x-this, and begin to grow and blossom. There is some degree of algae in your
x-pond even when it seems clear. You can never totally eliminate your algae.
x-
x-
x-
x-Algae require three major conditions - Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Light.
x-Eliminating any one of those prevents the growth of algae. Green water is
x-particularly annoying as it prevents you from seeing into the pond.
x-Phosphorus is probably the most difficult element to deal with, as it is
x-often present in your water supply. You need the light if you have plants,
x-though shade from outside the pond might be possible if you only have fish.
x-In a planted pond, lilies and floating plants like water lettuce and water
x-hyacinth will eventually block light from the algae.
x-
x-
x-
x-Many algae will preferentially get their nitrogen requirement from ammonia
x-(fish waste). The best solution to the presence of ammonia is a working
x-biological filter. However, filters usually only convert ammonia to nitrite
x-to nitrate. Algae will use nitrates too, but other plants will compete for
x-it.
x-
x-
x-
x-Other great tips to reduce the algae:
x-
x- 1.. Install bottom drains and skimmers for ease of removing sludge and
x-debris.
x- 2.. Net the pond during the fall to keep leaves out of the pond.
x- 3.. Trim dead growth from the plants and remove floating tropicals if you
x-live in colder climates.
x- 4.. Lower your number of fish and do not overfeed the fish.
x- 5.. Add many plants of any type. Marginal plants such as reeds, cattails,
x-iris, pickerel weed and arrowhead are good. Try floaters such as water
x-hyacinth and water lettuce. Place underwater plants such as anacharis, which
x-uses the nutrients that the algae prefer.
x- 6.. Provide plenty of shade. Lilies, floating plants (water hyacinth and
x-water lettuce), and artificial shade (shade cloth, umbrella, arch or trellis
x-planted with vines) will prevent the sun from finding the algae.
x- 7.. Clean the debris from the bottom of the pond. Some people use snails
x-to chew on the debris. This leaves less decaying matter for the algae to
x-take up.
x- 8.. Reduce or stop fertilizing your plants. Fertilizer may also promote
x-algal growth.
x- 9.. Plant in fine gravel and top with larger rocks if you have koi.
x- 10.. Use mechanical filtration to remove fish waste. This could be a
x-settling chamber in your filter or the first row of brushes in your filter
x-media.
x- 11.. Construct a veggie filter with a surface area ten to twenty percent
x-of the surface area of your pond. Plant marginal plants. Pump the pond water
x-through the filter at a turnover rate of one-half to one-fourth of the total
x-pond volume per hour. Veggie filters use many of the nutrients and provides
x-a good place for bacteria to grow. Build it with a bottom drain (or two) for
x-ease of cleaning. This may prevent backups and leaks over the edge. A veggie
x-filter can also be as simple as floating water hyacinth at the top of your
x-stock tank filter.
x- 12.. Purchase a sludge-eating product (concentrated bacteria culture).
x- 13.. Many people use an Ultra-Violet clarifier to destroy floating algae.
x-This is good if you are very sure that you have zero ammonia. This will cost
x-more than most pond products and you will need to change the bulb every
x-year.
x- 14.. Add a bale of barley straw to your pond for string algae. Barley
x-straw has been shown to kill it and corn meal will take it out of suspension
x-and it will sink to the bottom of the pond. However, in both cases you're
x-adding even more organic matter to the pond, and you need to remove it when
x-it has done its job.
x- 15.. Chemically, 5 parts per billion of Copper Sulphate will destroy
x-algae.
x- 16.. A phosphate remover usually found near the aquatic plant fertilizers
x-in hardware stores and garden centers is an option. Measure the amount
x-suitable for your pond size, place it in a mesh bag, and soak it in a pail
x-before placing it in the filter. It needs to soak because it gives off heat
x-when it first becomes moist.
x- 17.. Most of all, be patient.
x-
x-
x-18: Are there laws concerning the building of a pond?
x-
x-You will have to check your local by-laws for liability issues and to know
x-how deep your pond can be without a fence and locking-gate surround it. Some
x-cities consider ponds greater then a certain depth to be small pools and
x-must meet the legal requirements for a pool Always be aware, however, that
x-young children have a fascination with water and even the shallowest ponds
x-can prove deadly if you do not supervise children at all times.
x-
x-
x-
x-19: How do chlorine and chloramine affect the pond?
x-
x-Chlorine and sometimes chloramine are added to many water supplies. This
x-does not apply to natural fed water from springs or wells, just water
x-treated and supplied by water companies.
x-
x-Water companies provide water for humans to consume, and not for fish and
x-plants to reside. These chemicals are added as part of the water
x-purification process. An amount of the water supplied to our homes is
x-recycled, filtered (in a similar way to our ponds' filtering), and treated
x-with chemicals to make it safe to drink. Depending on where you live,
x-different things maybe done to your water before it comes out of the tap or
x-faucet.
x-
x-
x-
x-Water can come from natural springs, reservoirs, underground aquafers, or a
x-mixture. This can go through a treatment plant (which is like a giant pond
x-filter), through carbon to remove impurities, and many other treatments. To
x-ensure there is no bad bacteria in the water we drink, chemicals called
x-chlorine and chloramine are normally added.
x-
x-
x-
x-This is normally added at the pumping station, and as it travels through the
x-pipes it becomes more dilute. If your house is near the pumping station, you
x-will receive a higher level than somebody at the end of the pipe.
x-
x-
x-
x-Both these chemicals can and do harm fish, plants and all aquatic life. They
x-also kill filter bacteria. There are ways of removing these from the water,
x-and depending on how much you value your fish, there are several ways of
x-making the water safe.
x-
x-
x-
x-By spraying the water in as fine of a mist as possible when filling up your
x-pond, most of the chlorine will be driven off. Chloramine can only be
x-removed by chemicals, or absorbtion. There are many treatments you can buy
x-which neutralise these chemicals. They are added at the same time you top
x-your water off.
x-
x-
x-
x-The only problem is that other chemicals maybe added to your tap water
x-infrequently. Old copper and iron pipes in houses can also leach harmful
x-deposits and these treatments will not protect you. It is possible to get
x-filters which filter tap water and make it safe for ponds. These normally
x-consist of a activated carbon filter, which absorbs more than 90% of all
x-harmful chemicals. If you cannot obtain a proper tap water filter for ponds,
x-some of the household tap water filters have carbon filters. These will
x-provide similar protection. These carbon filters have cartridges which
x-absorb many other chemicals and require replacing after a set time. They are
x-not too expensive to buy particularly if you often smell chlorine in your
x-water (smells like a swimming pool), or have old copper or iron pipes.
x-
x-
x-
x-Symptoms of Chlorine/Chloramine poisoning are as follows:
x-
x-
x-
x-1) Fish are healthy and lively prior to addition of new water.
x-
x-2) Within a few hours, fish stay on bottom of pond, and clamp fins.
x-
x-3) Symptoms after 24 hours include sunken eyes in severe cases.
x-
x-Unless the water is treated immediately when it goes in, treatment is very
x-difficult once the fish have been exposed to chlorine and chloramine for
x-many hours. These chemicals will dissipate after about 48 hours and there is
x-very little you can do to help affected fish.
x-
x-
x-
x-Chlorine and chloramine levels tend to be at their highest during peak
x-demand periods. It is best to avoid topping off ponds during these periods.
x-If you smell chlorine, and do not have a tapwater filter or do not use
x-dechlorinating chemicals, do not top off your pond. Only a tapwater filter
x-will give the best protection.
x-
x-
x-
x-20: How much sun and/or shade do I need?
x-
x-Most water plants require sun at least half of the day, but preferably more.
x-Sun may increases the probability of algae, but the plants in the water will
x-compete with the algae for nutrients and generally solve this problem.
x-Sufficient plant coverage on the surface is almost a necessity for clear
x-water in most garden ponds. Try water lilies, lotus, water lettuce, and
x-hyacinth to provide shade for your pond. Other plants will tolerate shady
x-conditions. Check with pond suppliers for additional suggestions.
x-
x-
x-
x-21: Do I have to have a pump/filter?
x-
x-No, you do not necessarily need a filter. If you have no fish, a filter is
x-completely unnecessary. If you do have fish (but not many) you may not need
x-a filter. If you do not feed your fish very often you may not need a filter.
x-If you are none of the above cases, chances are you will need a filter. You
x-must have a pump to run a filter, unless of course you have a natural stream
x-flowing into and out of your pond.
x-
x-
x-
x-22: Do I need a filter?
x-
x-Filters are important in maintaining good water quality, but they are not
x-needed in all circumstances. If a pond has very few fish, and is full of
x-plants, there will be a natural balance and filters are unnecessary. If
x-though, your pond is primarily for fish, and you feed them on a regular
x-basis, a filter should be installed to maintain the water quality.
x-
x-It all depends on the size of pond and the number, size, and kind of fish.
x-If your fish load is not too excessive, the filter could be as simple as an
x-air-driven sponge filter.
x-
x-
x-
x-Keep track of you ammonia and algae levels. If your ammonia level gets too
x-high or you can no longer see your fish, you should consider building a
x-filter. With large ponds, ammonia usually is not a problem.
x-
x-
x-
x-The only way to avoid having a filter is to create a natural balance. You
x-must balance the number of fish with the size of your pond and plant the
x-pond fairly heavily to absorb waste products. In reality, most garden ponds
x-with a few goldfish, a water lily and plenty of plants do not need a filter.
x-
x-
x-
x-Human nature though, means we tend to add more fish than the pond can
x-naturally support. Very soon, the water quality deteriorates.
x-
x-
x-
x-23: Does a swimming pool filter work?
x-
x-Swimming pool filtration generally does not work well for fish ponds.
x-Swimming pool filters are not designed for the biological filtration you
x-need for a pond. They are meant to mechanically and chemically filter the
x-water. They also may not be adequate for 24 hour a day use. In general
x-swimming pool pumps are expensive to operate, because they consume a lot of
x-electricity.
x-
x-
x-
x-24: What is a vegetable (veggie) filter?
x-
x-It is a separate area where aquatic plants can be grown with the aim of
x-removing nitrate and phosphate naturally.
x-
x-Koi eat plants of all types, and so it is not practical to keep plants in
x-the same ponds as koi. The vegetable filter is a small pond or tank beside
x-the main pond, where water is passed from the pond, past the plants and back
x-to the pond. This does not have to be at a very fast speed, and providing
x-the water is clean enough, a small aquarium powerhead can be used as a pump.
x-Most aquatic plants can be kept in here, but reports show that water cress
x-and mimulus are two of the best plants for removing nitrate.
x-
x-
x-
x-Plants have one other benefit. They prefer ammonium to nitrate. This means
x-they reduce the load on a biological filter.
x-
x-
x-
x-25: What's a USDA Zone? Which zone am I in?
x-
x-USDA Zones are established by the United States Department of Agriculture.
x-They are based on how plants will fair in "zones" throughout the country.
x-Plants you buy should have labels as to which zones for which they are
x-hardy. To find which zone you are located in, visit:
x-
x-http://www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/
x-
x-
x-
x-USDA Hardiness Zone Zone Average Minimum Winter Temperature, in degrees
x-Fahrenheit:
x-
x-
x-
x-Zone 1 = -50 and below
x-
x-Zone 2 = -40 to -50
x-
x-Zone 3 = -30 to -40
x-
x-Zone 4 = -20 to -30
x-
x-Zone 5 = -10 to -20
x-
x-Zone 6 = 0 to -10
x-
x-Zone 7 = 10 to 0
x-
x-Zone 8 = 20 to 10
x-
x-Zone 9 = 30 to 20
x-
x-Zone 10 = 40 to 30
x-
x-Zone 11 = 40 and above.
x-
x-
x-
x-26: What are the red/black worms in my filter?
x-
x-They are probably midge fly larva (bloodworms). Dehydrated blood worms are
x-often sold in pet stores as fish food.
x-
x-
x-
x-27: Why did my pump burn out?
x-
x-There are two likely causes of pump burnout: overheating or electrical
x-short. There is not much you can do about an electrical short (except to
x-never allow water to get into a pump that is not meant to be submersible).
x-Protect yourself, your fish, family and pets by always plugging all pond
x-electrical equipment into a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI, or GFI).
x-These are usually replacement receptacles that you can purchase at any
x-hardware store. In many areas they are legally required for all outdoor
x-applications.
x-
x-Running the pump dry can cause overheating. No pump should ever be allowed
x-to run dry, particularly submersibles. The other leading cause of
x-overheating is blockage at the input. Many pumps come with a very small
x-screen to prevent them from inhaling leaves and other objects, but the
x-screen is often too small. Place the pump under a plant basket weighted with
x-a stone, inside a crate filled with lava rock, inside a milk crate covered
x-with window screen or wire two baskets around it like a clamshell to
x-increase the surface area of the screen.
x-
x-
x-
x-Note: Do not place your pump on the bottom of your pond. If by accident,
x-your pump begins to empty your pond, you will not empty the entire pond.
x-Instead, you will only run the pump dry instead of the pump and the pond.
x-
x-
x-
x-Some pumps will also run too hot if they are allowed to run continuously
x-against too little pressure. Some believe that pond pumps should never be
x-allowed to run at more than two thirds of their maximum capacities. This may
x-be excessive, but it's certainly true that it does no harm to restrict the
x-output flow from most pumps. If you are pumping to a waterfall, you probably
x-have sufficient back pressure in anyway.
x-
x-
x-
x-28: What type of silicone cement is safe to use on my pond?
x-
x-Avoid any kind of silicone that does not specify being safe for aquarium
x-use. Do not use white or colored silicone or anything intended for tubs and
x-tiles. These silicones have additives to prevent mildew. Some clear
x-silicones will say they are safe for aquarium use but not "for marine use
x-below the waterline." These are generally safe but are not guaranteed to be
x-structurally useful. In other words, do not use these products to hold
x-boulders in place. Sealing holes with these products should be fine.
x-
x-
x-
x-29: Why is there foam at the base of my waterfall?
x-
x-Foam in the pond is rarely caused by soap as many would guess, but by the
x-agitation of water containing dissolved organic compounds (DOC). DOC may be
x-caused by fish wastes or by decaying plant matter. First clean the bottom of
x-the pond and ensure that there is no decaying leaf mold. Skim the foam with
x-a net. If you have eliminated the source, no more foam should appear.
x-
x-If the source of the DOC is your fish, you can remove it with activated
x-carbon (sources claim from one to eight pounds of carbon per one thousand
x-gallons) placed in the filter (or in the base of the waterfall). Put the
x-carbon in a pantyhose leg so that you can easily remove it later. It should
x-be removed once the foam disappears.
x-
x-
x-
x-If you have a continuing problem with DOC, you may consider building a
x-protein skimmer.
x-
x-
x-
x-30: How often should I change my pond water?
x-
x-You should never do a full water change. When you change your entire pond's
x-volume of water you are in reality starting from ground zero. Do not do a
x-total water change unless you know your water has been contaminated with a
x-toxic chemical. Most koi breeders say that a 10% water change weekly is a
x-good promoter of koi growth. A slight water change is good for your pond
x-periodically. If you do change any of the water in your pond, USE
x-DECHLORINATOR! Tap water usually contains chlorine and chloramines which are
x-deadly to fish. Use the prescribed dosage of dechlorinator to make sure that
x-the chlorine is effectively removed from your pond.
x-
x-Some people prefer to use a carbon filter to remove the chlorine and
x-chloramines from their water.
x-
x-
x-
x-31: How do I change my pH?
x-
x-First determine if it's really necessary to change the pH. Your plants will
x-survive a wide range of pH, and fish should do well within a range of 7.0 to
x-8.5. More important than the actual value is the fluctuation of pH. Any
x-large fluctuation will stress the fish. Because plants release more carbon
x-dioxide at night during their dark cycle, the water will be more acidic
x-early in the morning. Check your pH early in the morning and then late in
x-the afternoon. If the pH changes by more than one full point you need
x-buffer. This can be accomplished by adding baking soda (sodium bicarbonate)
x-or possibly by adding limestone rocks to your waterfall.
x-
x-Fish wastes and other wastes will also slowly lower your pH and make the
x-pond more acidic. This can be controlled by cleaning out the bottom of the
x-pond periodically, and by doing regular water changes.
x-
x-
x-
x-Rainwater will usually lower your pH, and tap water will often raise it.
x-
x-
x-
x-You can reduce your pH (concentration of hydrogen ions) by adding a handful
x-of oak leaves or floating a bag of peat moss in the water. An alternative is
x-to mix a cup of vinegar with a gallon of water and sprinkle it around the
x-edges of the pond every other day until the pH is balanced.
x-
x-
x-
x-If you need to raise the pH, use baking soda. If you must lower it use
x-muriatic acid (hydrochloric Acid, HCl). Do this very slowly, and always add
x-the acid to the water and not the water to the acid. Take a 1-gallon or
x-larger pail filled with water with a 1/8" ID tube through the base. Suspend
x-it over the pond, and add 1-cup acid to the contents of the bucket. Let this
x-slowly drip into the pond. Never change pH by more than 0.2 points in a 24
x-hour period.
x-
x-
x-
x-Do not attempt to change the pH too quickly as you will kill the fish.
x-
x-
x-
x-32: What type of rocks can I use around my pond?
x-
x-Generally, stay away from brightly colored rocks, which will contain copper
x-or other metallic compounds that could be harmful to the fish. Shale will
x-leach oil into the pond and limestone may raise the pH more than you would
x-like.
x-
x-
x-
x-33: How and how often should I clean the pond?
x-
x-Pond cleaning may depend on many factors. There will be significantly less
x-detritus if you are not near deciduous trees, have a surface skimmer, or if
x-you place a net over your pond during the fall and winter.
x-
x-Frogs must be able to bury themselves in the muck in the bottom of the pond
x-so do not keep the bottom extremely clean if you plan to keep them.
x-
x-
x-
x-If you do not have frogs, clean the bottom of the pond in the late fall and
x-also early spring. If you do have frogs, clean the pond as soon as the frogs
x-become active in the spring.
x-
x-
x-
x-You can use a strong net to scoop the muck from the bottom, a common pool
x-skimmer net for the sides and bottom, or a Shop-Vac for a vacuum of the
x-entire surface. In a concrete pond, a rake is an option. Many people build
x-their own vacuum system.
x-
x-
x-
x-34: I just cleaned my pond and my water turned brown. What's wrong?
x-
x-More than likely, nothing is wrong. When you messed with the filter
x-apparatus and adjusted plants and moved rocks you stirred dirt into the
x-water and moved the algae on the walls. More than likely within a few days
x-the dirt will settle to the bottom and your water will resume its former
x-clarity.
x-
x-
x-
x-35: I haven't cleaned the pond in months and the water is brown. What's
x-wrong?
x-
x-You may need to get in there and do some cleaning. Your house will be dusty
x-if you don't clean it periodically. The same is true of your pond. It is an
x-unnatural environment.
x-
x-Sometimes the water clarity will change and this is natural. Check how your
x-water looks on days with different types of weather. Sometimes the pond will
x-look brown, sometimes clear, and sometimes green. Remember that this is a
x-living system and will change. It may be a more serious problem, however. It
x-may mean your dog has been swimming in it or your fish have been rooting in
x-the lily pots. If your fish decide to stir up the muck in the bottom the
x-water will become unclear as well. If the water smells sour or foul, you may
x-have a more serious problem. Test your water quality or have your pet store
x-do it for you. Act accordingly once your find out if something is out of
x-balance.
x-
x-
x-
x-36: Will salt reduce the ice on my frozen pond?
x-
x-Salt does not melt snow or ice. Instead, salt keeps melted snow from
x-freezing again, even when it's well below 32 degrees...
x-
x-The addition of the salt changes the equilibrium (be the water solid,
x-liquid, or gas). Before the salt was added, the water was freezing and the
x-ice was melting at the same temperature of 32 ºF (0 ºC). But the salt
x-destroyed equilibrium, so that the water will not freeze at 32 ºF (0 ºC)
x-(the freezing point may be -5.8 ºF (-21 ºC)), but the ice continues to melt
x-at 32 ºF (0 ºC). Without equilibrium, the ice melts but the water does not
x-freeze: "melting" wins.
x-
x-
x-
x-Please note that at a certain temperature (usually sub-zero degrees
x-Fahrenheit), the salt won't even work. The temperature is so low that the
x-freezing point will not decrease any more. Thus it is useless to even try to
x-create a hole in your pond when the temps get down in the negative numbers.
x-If this is the case, find your nearest de-icer.
x-
x-
x-
x-Please note that adding salt will definitely change your equilibrium. Make
x-sure that an addition of salt will not harm your plants and/or fish. Adding
x-salt is not recommended as highly for reducing ice as heaters, de-icers, air
x-stones, etc.
x-
x-
x-
x-36b: What is "porg"?
x-
x-The term "porg" is a play-off of the Star Trek Next Generation series. In
x-the series the evil Borg were half-living creatures, half robots, flying
x-around the universe assimilating new species into their collective. Their
x-favorite line, delivered in cold robotic voices, was "Resistance is futile,
x-you will be assimilated."
x-
x-
x-
x-We rec.ponders feel the same way about ponding. Watch out you are about to
x-be assimilated into the Porg collective! All your money and spare time will
x-be sent to the depths of the pond collective. We will be here to help with
x-the details.
x-
x-We are _Borg_! Resistance is futile, you WILL be assimilated!
x-
x-We are _Porg_! Resistance is futile, you WILL be Pond-Elated!
x-
x-
x-
x-P = Pond
x-
x-O = Oriented
x-
x-R = Recreation
x-
x-G = Group
x-
x-
x-
x-37: Where do I find pond plants?
x-
x-The best way to obtain plants for your pond is to purchase them from a
x-reputable garden center, pond supply store, or mail order source.
x-Nursery-grown plants are usually of high quality grown from known stock;
x-there is less chance of introducing unwanted plants or pests into your pond,
x-and they transplant better than plants collected from the wild.
x-
x-Here are other tips to finding cheap, quality pond plants:
x-
x- 1.. A lot of ponders will give away or trade extra plants. Post where you
x-are to rec.ponds and maybe a nearby ponder will respond.
x- 2.. Try asking local watergardeners you know (ex: clubs, neighbors, etc.)
x-to give you a start of what they already have.
x- 3.. Visit your local grocery store and see if they have any (ex:
x-watercress and Chinese water chestnuts). Sometimes grocery stores carry
x-suitable pond plants in the produce section.
x- 4.. Try natural ponds and see if they have any pond plants (ex: lilies).
x-Be careful with invasive plants, however. Many "pond plants" have
x-overcrowded and dammed natural waterways and caused tremendous taxdollars to
x-eradicate. They may take over your pond. Check to make sure the plants are
x-legal in your state. Collecting native plants from natural streams and
x-waterways may be restricted or prohibited. Check with the Department of
x-Natural Resources or the appropriate regulatory agency for your area before
x-taking plants from natural waterways. If you do obtain permission, do not
x-place the plants directly into your pond. Isolate them for several weeks in
x-water that is treated for parasites with a plant-safe product. Observe them
x-closely for signs of parasites or insects.
x-
x-
x-5. If all else fails go to the web, try E-bay, or check out your local
x-hardware stores with garden departments (i.e.: Lowes, Home Depot, etc.) for
x-plants. At Gardenweb.com, you can trade plants that you have (water or
x-terrestrial) for pond plants.
x-
x-
x-
x-6. You can trade plants at websites such as Gardenweb.com for water plants.
x-Trade seeds for veggie gardens, coreopsis from the yard, cuttings from
x-honeysuckle, cuttings from rose bushes, etc.
x-
x-
x-
x-Notes:
x-
x-
x-
x-Plants such as water hyacinths obtained from others' ponds may also contain
x-tiny fish and snail eggs that will grow and mature in your pond. If you have
x-excess pond plants, add them to your compost heap or give/sell them to
x-others. Do not attempt to put extra fish and plants in natural waterways as
x-this act is probably illegal, and invasive plants and animals can destroy
x-the local ecosystem
x-
x-
x-
x-38: Are non-native plants safe for my pond?
x-
x-Many non-native plants threaten the local waterways when they are released
x-into natural waterways such as lakes, streams, or creeks. Water hyacinths,
x-anacharis, cabomba, and other exotics have proven to be extremely invasive
x-in southern waters, making them impassable and eliminating other native
x-plants. Do not introduce plants from your pond into a local waterway without
x-first checking with your Department of Natural Resources or the equivalent
x-regulatory agency.
x-
x-
x-
x-39: How should I pot my plants?
x-
x-Unless you have a natural pond or plan to cover your pond with an earth
x-bottom, plants should be placed into containers for easy relocation or
x-removal. Containers also keep invasive, fast-growing plants from taking over
x-the pond.
x-
x-Pond plants are usually planted in soil, although many find equal or better
x-results using a soil-less material such as crushed rock,gravel, or a stone
x-that anchors the plant. You should avoid the use of soil mixes containing
x-vermiculite, perlite, or any other additives that will float out of the
x-mixture. Do your potting in the shade and ensure that the plant does not dry
x-out during the process. Roots and tubers are often fragile and should be
x-handled with care to avoid damage.
x-
x-
x-
x-Pots generally should be large enough to accommodate later growth. Pots with
x-no drainage hole are ideal. If you use one with drain holes, cover them
x-(large gravel works well) so that soil will not fall out into the pond. Fill
x-the pot partially up with soil and then position the plant in the pot,
x-fanning out its roots over the soil. Add more soil to within 2 inches of the
x-top of the pot. Put about a 1 inch layer of gravel over the top to deter
x-fish (like koi) from rooting and to keep the soil from clouding the water as
x-you place the plant into the pond. Be sure the growing tip or crown of the
x-plant remains above the surface of the soil and gravel layer. Lower the pot
x-slowly into the pond. After it is barely submerged, hold it at that level
x-until the contents are saturated (the bubbles will stop). Slowly lower it to
x-its final location.
x-
x-
x-
x-40: How much light do plants need when moved indoors for the winter?
x-
x-All plants need light for photosynthesis, the creation of food energy
x-essential to maintaining life processes and growth. In northern latitudes,
x-we change from long hours of daylight in spring and summer to much shorter
x-days in fall and winter. Due to the sun's angle, winter light is less
x-intense; weather is often cloudier, too. Thus take that in to account for
x-your natural light. In my opinion, you should never give more light to the
x-plant than it receives in its natural surroundings.
x-
x-By changing the cycle of day/night for a plant, you may inadvertently cause
x-a plant to flower too early or not at all. During any dark cycle you should
x-never try to interrupt the darkness (the daily photoperiod) as this causes
x-the plants stress and confusion as to what season they are actually growing.
x-
x-
x-
x-Here's one sure-bet way to determine if your amount of light needs to be
x-adjusted:
x-
x-
x-
x-When a plant receives too much light, it will usually develop areas that
x-look burned or bleached on the leaves, especially on the sunniest side. If a
x-plant is receiving too little light, it will lean toward the light source,
x-growth will be lanky and pale. Adjust accordingly to the plant's behavior.
x-
x-
x-
x-41: Should I fertilize my water plants?
x-
x-Some pond plants are heavy feeders and will need regular fertilization
x-during the growing season, while others will need no nutrients beyond what
x-they get from your pond's water. More specifically, water lilies, lotus, and
x-marginals will usually need supplemental fertilizer, while oxygenators and
x-floating plants will generally get what they need from the pond,
x-particularly if you have fish. There are fertilizers made specially for pond
x-plants, and some people also report good results using fertilizer for
x-terrestrial potted plants. Fertilizer comes in liquid, granular, and solid
x-form, the latter consisting of tablets or spikes. Granular is handy for
x-adding to potting mixtures. Tablets or spikes are easy to use for periodic
x-fertilization; they can be pushed down into pots without removing them from
x-the pond. Don't fertilize your plants when they become dormant during the
x-winter.
x-
x-42: How many plants should I have and what kind?
x-
x-Surface coverage of 50-80% (less for larger or shadier ponds, more for
x-smaller or sunnier ones) helps keep algae growth in check and keeps water
x-temperature lower in locations with hot summers. Use water lilies, lotus,
x-floating plants, and marginals with floating leaves to accomplish this. One
x-water lily or lotus will take up 1 square yard or more of pond surface. One
x-bunch of oxygenators for each 1-2 sq. ft. of pond surface is recommended to
x-help keep water clean. Additional marginals are added for contrast and
x-interest.
x-
x-
x-
x-43: Will my plants survive the winter?
x-
x-Pond plants vary in the amount of cold they can endure. Zone information, if
x-known, is given in the plant descriptions. These are the standard USDA
x-hardiness zones. If you live in a cold climate, plants that aren't hardy
x-will need to be wintered inside, or else treated as annuals and replenished
x-with new stock when the weather warms.
x-
x-44: When is it safe to put plants in the pond?
x-
x-Hardy plants (hardy lilies, lotus, floating heart, hornwort, etc.) usually
x-can survive the winter on the bottom of the pond. Plants such as water iris
x-and most reeds and rushes can be left on the margin of the pond all winter.
x-
x-Tropical plants such as water hyacinth, water lettuce and umbrella palm can
x-be placed in the pond once the threat of frost has passed. These plants
x-typically do better once the temperatures remain above freezing (32 ºF).
x-Tropical lilies should not be placed in the water until the temperature
x-remains constantly above 20 ºC (70 ºF).
x-
x-
x-
x-45: What do I do about pond plant pests?
x-
x-Never use an insecticide or any other product that is not specified to be
x-safe for aquatic life if you have fish, snails, or other pond inhabitants.
x-Many pests can be eradicated or at least controlled by either squirting with
x-a stream of water or shaking the leaves underwater to knock the bugs into
x-the water. If you have fish, they will help out by eating the bugs.
x-
x-For aphid/whiteflies/spider mite control, Lilypons Water Gardens (see
x-sources) suggests mixing one tablespoon of dishwashing detergent with one
x-cup of cooking oil. Mix 2 1/2 teaspoons of this mix to one cup of water;
x-spray on water lilies every 10 days. The detergent emulsifies the oil so it
x-does not leave a film on top of your pond. Lilypons has successfully tested
x-the technique on water lilies with aphid infestations.
x-
x-
x-
x-Another way to deal with some pests is to use a bacteria, bacillus
x-thurengiensis or Bt, that comes a dust, spray, or in the form of floating
x-pellets. Strains of Bt that attack many common pests, including caterpillars
x-and mosquito larvae, are available.
x-
x-
x-
x-46: Can I just toss my extra plants into the nearby lake or stream?
x-
x-No! Absolutely under no condition throw your extra plants into natural
x-waterways. This may be illegal. In the warm nation of Uganda in the spring
x-of 1996, the port was shut down because the beautiful water hyacinth had
x-completely blocked it off. It was so thick that ships could not move through
x-it. When they brought in a special ship to cut through the weeds the engine
x-blew out within a week. This has caused a terrible problem for their
x-national economy. The plants are thick enough to stand on. It has also
x-become a problem in Florida and southern Louisiana at times. It is
x-controlled by a bacterial agent, but this is a slow process. Water lilies
x-can do the same kind of damage, filling lakes and closing off waterways.
x-Water plants can be very aggressive. Be careful and responsible. If you don't
x-know anyone who needs your divisions, add them to your compost heap. If you
x-are dividing them you can see that you will not have a shortage of them in
x-the future.
x-
x-
x-
x-47: Can I over-winter my tropical plants?
x-
x-Umbrella palm can be kept as a houseplant. Tropical lilies can be stored,
x-bare-root, in an aquarium. Water hyacinth or water lettuce are purely
x-annuals for most, however a number of people have had some success keeping
x-water hyacinth heavily fertilized and in front of bright windows. Others
x-have found success growing their water lettuce and water hyacinth in a
x-greenhouse.
x-
x-
x-
x-48: What pH do my plants prefer?
x-
x-Most pond plants will do well in a range around neutral, say 6.2 to 7.4.
x-Plants will themselves tend to pull the pH towards neutral. If your water
x-tests too acid (low pH number) or too alkaline (high pH number), there are
x-formulations sold specially for pond use that will either raise or lower the
x-pH.
x-
x-
x-
x-49: What are water lilies (nymphaea)?
x-
x-Probably the most popular pond plant. Hybridization has produced hundreds of
x-cultivars; sizes range from dwarf to the giant Victoria lilies whose leaves
x-can exceed 30" in diameter. Water lilies have round leaves ("pads") in solid
x-green or variegated with hues of red/pink/bronze that float on the water's
x-surface. Blooms open during the day and close at night, except for blooms on
x-the night-blooming tropicals which do the opposite. Blooms last up to 5 days
x-and generally appear from May or June through October, although the season
x-can vary quite a bit depending on your weather. Flower colors range from
x-pinks, reds, oranges, yellows, whites, and for tropicals, lavender and blue.
x-Some cultivars sport multi-colored blossoms.
x-
x-All water lilies need plenty of sun for best results (though blooms may slow
x-during extremely hot weather), and in turn help screen the pond to limit
x-algae growth. Water lilies do best in large containers in somewhat shallow,
x-still water. Use supports in deeper ponds to elevate pots to the correct
x-height (plastic milk crates or flat rocks work well). Spent blossoms and
x-leaves should be removed, cutting the stem as close to the crown of the
x-plant as practical. Water lilies are heavy feeders which need to be
x-fertilized regularly during the growing season.
x-
x-
x-
x-Water lilies are divided into hardy and tropical, depending on whether they
x-will winter over in cold climates or not. The characteristics described
x-below hold true in general, however due to hybridization there are some
x-"crossover" traits to be found.
x-
x-
x-
x-50: What about hardy water lilies?
x-
x-Hardies are cold-hardy to zone 3 as long as the tuber is kept below the ice
x-line. Hardy lily blooms float on the surface of the water. For best results,
x-place the top of pot 12-24" below the water's surface. The plants will
x-become dormant after a killing frost. If you expect ice to contact the
x-tuber, remove the plant from the pond and store in a dark, cool, moist
x-location until weather warms in the spring.
x-
x-
x-
x-51: How do I over-winter my lilies?
x-
x-If you can not leave your hardy lily below the ice in your winter pond,
x-remove the dead leaves and either bring the whole container indoors for cold
x-storage under 10 ºC (50 ºF) or wash all the soil media from the tuber and
x-trim the roots to approximately three inches. You can keep the bare tuber in
x-water in a container in your refrigerator.
x-
x-Bring your tropical lily indoors and wash all the soil media from the roots.
x-Leave it in a well-lit, heated, aquarium. Do not remove the leaves. Keep the
x-temperature of the water over 70 ºF.
x-
x-
x-
x-52: What about tropical water lilies?
x-
x-Tropical lilies are in general larger, showier, and more free-blooming than
x-the hardies. Blooms are held above the water's surface. The top of pot is
x-ideally 6" (dwarf types) - 18" below the water's surface. Tropicals' leaves
x-are somewhat thin and fragile, making them more susceptible to damage from
x-fish. Tropicals will not survive a heavy frost, and are treated as annuals
x-in colder climates, perennial in warmer climates (zones 10-11). If frost is
x-expected, plants can be temporarily protected overnight with a covering of
x-plastic or canvas.
x-
x-
x-
x-53: How do I plant/repot my lilies?
x-
x-Divide and repot water lilies every 1-4 years, or when leaves and blooms
x-appear stunted and/or sparse. If you purchase your lily mail-order, it will
x-come "bare root" and you'll have to pot it up initially.
x-
x-There are two basic growth habits - a horizontal tuber which grows across
x-the surface of the pot (hardy), and a tuber that grows vertically or nearly
x-so (tropical). Both types will produce offshoots which can be cut or broken
x-off from the main tuber and potted separately.
x-
x-
x-
x-Use a container that holds about 8 quarts of soil for a single dwarf lily,
x-16 - 20 quarts for a single tropical lily, and up to 30 quarts for a single
x-hardy lily, which needs extra room due to its horizontal growth habit.
x-Containers that are wider than they are deep are preferred. More than one
x-lily can be planted in a container as long as a large enough size is used.
x-Use garden soil mixed with fertilizer at the rate of one teaspoon per gallon
x-of soil and with well-composted manure at the rate of one part to four parts
x-soil. Manure that is not aged sufficiently will add unwanted nutrients to
x-your pond which could encourage algae growth.
x-
x-
x-
x-If repotting, remove the plant and root mass from the pot and gently hose
x-off tubers and roots. The crown (where the leaves attach to the tuber)
x-should always be placed above the soil and gravel surface, not buried. If
x-the lily is one which grows horizontally, plant the tuber as far to one side
x-of the pot as possible, with the growing crown towards the center of the
x-pot; if it grows vertically, place it in the center of the pot. If possible,
x-place newly planted lilies in shallow water until they become established.
x-Then lower them to their final position.
x-
x-
x-
x-54: What is lotus (nelumbo)?
x-
x-Although hardy to zone 4, lotus will perform better in warm climates where
x-it gets a longer growing season. Lotus prefer full sun, with the top of pot
x-2-12" below the water's surface. Sizes range from dwarf to plants with large
x-leaves up to 2' across. Blossoms and most leaves are held several inches to
x-several feet above the surface on prickly stems, while other leaves float on
x-the surface like a water lily. The leaves have a velvety rather than shiny
x-appearance and are extremely water repellent. Since they tend to be slightly
x-cupped, rain drops will collect on them in large jewel-like droplets. Blooms
x-open during the day, close at night, and last about three days. Lotus take
x-awhile to get established; don't expect blooms the first year, although
x-there are exceptions! Colors range from white, cream, yellow, pink, to red.
x-After the petals fall, the central seed pod can be cut and used in dried
x-arrangements. Lotus are tough plants that are less susceptible than water
x-lilies to koi damage.
x-
x-
x-
x-55: How do I plant/repot my lotus?
x-
x-Planting/Repotting Lotus grow from runners consisting of long slender tubers
x-attached end-to-end. These runners can get quite long and can be divided
x-during repotting for additional plants. Lotus need large containers (18
x-quarts for small, 20-48 quarts for large), and a round shape is best to keep
x-the growing tuber from bunching up in one corner of the pot.
x-
x-Use a good rich garden soil with no manure mixed in. Granular fertilizer at
x-the rate of one tablespoon per gallon of soil is recommended. Position the
x-tuber horizontally, with the end away from the growing tip buried shallowly
x-and the growing tip above the surface.
x-
x-
x-
x-56: What are floating water plants?
x-
x-These plants can help reduce the algae in your pond by limiting the amount
x-of sun reaching the water and absorbing nutrients from the water. Some of
x-them reproduce rapidly; it's best to limit their use to small ponds as you
x-may end up having to dip out excess stock.
x-
x-
x-
x-57: What is water hyacinth (eichornia crassipes)?
x-
x-Shiny green leaves grow from a bulbous stem which provides flotation for the
x-whole plant. Dangling roots provide a favorite spawning and snacking
x-material. Showy clusters of flowers are pale lavender with yellow centers.
x-Water hyacinth needs warm weather and lots of sunlight for best effect. It
x-can be extremely invasive in natural waterways and may be illegal to use in
x-some areas. Water hyacinths propagate by sending out runners which develop
x-new plants. It is an excellent plant for extracting nutrients from the
x-water. Water hyacinth is not hardy.
x-
x-
x-
x-58: What is duckweed (lemma)?
x-
x-Duckweek can look like a green carpet totally covering the water's surface;
x-upon close inspection, the carpet is made up of tiny floating plants, each
x-with rootlets extending down from a cluster of tiny leaves. Reproduces very
x-rapidly. Many fish like to eat duckweed. To provide a salad for your fish
x-without a maintenance headache in your pond, keep your duckweed in a
x-separate container and introduce into your pond only as much as your fish
x-will readily consume.
x-
x-
x-
x-59: What is water lettuce (pistia stratiotes)?
x-
x-Water lettuce is an attractive floater with velvety pale green leaves which,
x-as its name implies, look somewhat like a head of leaf lettuce. It is a
x-somewhat finicky plant which does best in shallow, still water, warm
x-temperatures, and broken sun. Roots provide good spawning ground. Water
x-lettuce is not hardy.
x-
x-
x-
x-60: What are marginal (or bog) plants?
x-
x-Marginal (bog) plants, so called because they grow at the margins of bodies
x-of water, provide the water garden with great variety in texture, size, and
x-form. Included in this group are plants which rise above the water as well
x-as plants that rest on its surface. Marginals should be placed in water 1-6"
x-over the top of the pot. Tall marginals need large containers in order to
x-keep them from becoming top-heavy and tipping in wind. They all absorb
x-nutrients; iris and reeds are so good at this that they are sometimes used
x-in filtration troughs or beds in lieu of more traditional forms of
x-filtration.
x-
x-
x-
x-61: What is water poppy (nymphoides)?
x-
x-Water poppy has round glossy 2" leaves with yellow poppy-like flowers. Along
x-with the golden club, the spawning plant of choice for my koi. Hardy to zone
x-9.
x-
x-
x-
x-62: What is parrot's feather (myriophyllum prosperpinacoides)?
x-
x-Parrot's feather has feathery light-green foliage which lifts up out of the
x-water on arching stems. It spreads readily. It is hardy to zone 6.
x-
x-
x-
x-63: What is golden club (orontium aqauticum)?
x-
x-Golden club has some leaves above the water; some float at its surface. It
x-produces an unusual bloom stalk colored bright yellow, hence its name. It is
x-hardy to zone 6.
x-
x-
x-
x-64: What is iris (iridaceae)?
x-
x-Iris has strap-like foliage and flowers ranging from white to yellow to deep
x-purple. It grows in clumps that can be divided often. Iris has excellent
x-water cleaning properties and grows 3'-4' tall. Some forms are hardy to zone
x-4.
x-
x-
x-
x-65: What is arrowhead/duck potato (Sagittaria)?
x-
x-Arrowhead has spade-shaped leaves with a graceful flower stalk of multiple
x-white blooms. Various forms range from 3'-5' in height. Sagittaria's edible
x-tubers give rise to one of its common names, Duck Potato. Some forms hardy
x-to zone 5.
x-
x-
x-
x-66: What is pickerel weed (pontederia cordata)?
x-
x-Pickerel weed has narrow leaves with a purple (or white, variant) flower
x-stalk. Pickerel weed is 2-3' in height and forms clumps which can be divided
x-often. Long blooming season. It is hardy to zone 3.
x-
x-
x-
x-67: What is cattail (typha)?
x-
x-Cattails have tall, strap-like leaves with the familiar brown bloom stalk.
x-Cattail can be invasive if not kept containerized. There are various sizes
x-from dwarf (3') to full size (7'). They are hardy to zone 2 or 3.
x-
x-
x-
x-68: What is papyrus (cyperus)?
x-
x-Papyrus comes in a variety of sizes from giant (6-10') to dwarf (30"). All
x-forms have spiky growth with a bushy head at the end of each stalk. Forms
x-tight clumps that can be divided frequently. It is hardy to zone 9.
x-
x-
x-
x-69: What is marsh marigold (caltha palustris)?
x-
x-Marsh marigold has single or double flowers in various shades of yellow with
x-green, glossy foliage. Marsh marigold ranges in size from diminutive forms
x-6" tall to 3' or more. Prefers cooler climates and partial shade, especially
x-during summer.
x-
x-
x-
x-70: What are oxygenators?
x-
x-Oxygenators are submerged plants which, in the presence of sunlight, absorb
x-nutrients and carbon dioxide and produce oxygen. Be aware, however, that at
x-night they give off carbon dioxide. If you have fish it's important to
x-provide a form of oxygenation, such as a waterfall or fountain, that runs
x-all night.
x-
x-Oxygenators can usually be placed directly into the pond without the benefit
x-of soil; simply weight a plant or rootless stems with special lead plant
x-weights or strips cut from an empty toothpaste tube and drop them in. Most
x-can also be planted in soil. Oxygenators provide excellent protection for
x-newly hatched fish. Many oxygenators have somewhat fragile stems and leaves
x-which need protection from koi. The entire plant can be contained in a bag
x-of loose mesh, such as leaf netting, to help protect it.
x-
x-
x-
x-Examples include anacharis (elodea canadensis), hornwort (ceratophyllum),
x-and cabomba/fanwort (cabomba caroliniana).
x-
x-
x-
x-71: What is anacharis (elodea canadensis)?
x-
x-Although one of the most popular oxygenators, this plant can be invasive
x-both in your pond and in your local waterways. Small whorls of leaves grow
x-on long, flexible stems. Excess anacharis makes good fertilizer or can be
x-added to your compost heap. Hardy to zone 5.
x-
x-
x-
x-72: What is hornwort (ceratophyllum)?
x-
x-Hornwort has bristly, dark, feathery foliage. Hornwort is unique in that it
x-has no roots and can simply be dropped into the pond. Produces small red and
x-yellow flowers in the summer. It is hardy to zone 4.
x-
x-
x-
x-73: What is cabomba/fanwort (cabomba caroliniana)?
x-
x-Cabomba has fan shaped feathery foliage. Produces small white flowers which
x-appear at the surface of the water. Extremely invasive in local waterways.
x-Hardy to zone 6.
x-
x-
x-
x-74: What is the nitrogen cycle?
x-
x-Everything we place in a pond produces toxic waste products from its own
x-metabolism. Nature's way of dealing with this problem is to provide bacteria
x-that convert these compounds to relatively harmless nitrogen compounds. This
x-conversion process is known as the "nitrogen cycle." A understanding of the
x-nitrogen cycle is essential to maintain good water quality in artificial
x-aquatic habitats.
x-
x-A major source of new nitrogen is the fish food that we feed our fish. One
x-of the primary components of fish food is protein. Protein is a
x-nitrogen-containing compound that is used by fish both to build other
x-proteins and as an energy source. Any food not consumed by the fish (as in
x-overfeeding) is used by the small organisms that are within the pond. The
x-proteins in dead plants and animals, if not removed, are also sources of
x-nitrogen. Finally, nitrogen is produced as a by-product of fish respiration,
x-so that even without feeding the fish, toxic substances are being added to
x-the water.
x-
x-
x-
x-A simplified cycle follows:-
x-
x- 1.. Fish eat food.
x- 2.. Fish excrete ammonia (which is highly toxic to fish in quantity).
x- 3.. Bacteria break down ammonia to nitrite (which is toxic to fish in
x-quantity).
x- 4.. Bacteria break down nitrite to nitrate (which is fairly harmless to
x-fish).
x- 5.. Plants consume nitrate.
x- 6.. Fish eat plants
x- 7.. The cycle begins again.
x-
x-
x-The above is a simplification of the cycle, and is basically how it works in
x-nature, and how we should mimic it.
x-
x-
x-
x-When protein is used by a fish for energy, it undergoes a series of
x-conversions. First, each large protein molecule is broken down (digested) in
x-the gut of the fish to form small amino acid molecules. The amino acids are
x-eventually absorbed into the tissues of the fish and are broken apart to
x-yield energy. A by-product of this metabolic conversion is ammonia. Since
x-ammonia is highly toxic to tissues, it is quickly excreted from the fish's
x-body through the urinary system into the pond water.
x-
x-
x-
x-In water, ammonia is found in two forms: as the ion (charged molecule)
x-ammonium and as the uncharged ammonia molecule. Ammonia is much more toxic
x-than ammonium. Molecules of these compounds continually change back and
x-forth, in a state referred to as equilibrium. At pH 7.0 (neutral), there are
x-always about as many ammonia molecules as there are ammonium ions. Above pH
x-7.0 (alkaline), there is always more ammonia than ammonium. The higher the
x-pH, the higher the ratio of toxic ammonia.
x-
x-
x-
x-The ammonia in pond water must be removed if the fish are to survive. One
x-way to do this is to have a constant inflow of new water and outflow of old
x-water. This is simply impractical for most people. With the nitrogen cycle,
x-ammonia can be removed in another manner: through a process know as
x-"nitrification", or what most people know as adding a filter to their pond.
x-
x-
x-
x-In nitrification, ammonia is converted by nitrifying organisms to the less
x-toxic molecule nitrite, and then to even less toxic nitrate. "Nitrosomonas"
x-bacteria convert ammonia to nitrite and "Nitrobacter" bacteria convert the
x-nitrite to nitrate.
x-
x-
x-
x-The nitrification process is "aerobic", meaning that it occurs only in the
x-presence of oxygen. Therefore, it is important that oxygen be present in
x-sufficient quantities for nitrification to take place.
x-
x-
x-
x-Nitrifying bacteria are found on any surface in the pond or filter that is
x-exposed to oxygen-containing water. The more surface area, the more room
x-there is for nitrifying bacteria. Most pond keepers try to encourage
x-bacterial growth in an aerobic filter, which is simply an area with a high
x-surface area and a rapid flow of oxygenated water. Undergravel filters, box
x-filters, trickle filters, and wet/dry filters are all aerobic filters that
x-work via the action of nitrifying bacteria.
x-
x-
x-
x-Although the end product of nitrification, nitrate, is much less toxic than
x-ammonia or nitrite, it too must be removed from the water. If left
x-unchecked, excessive nitrates can cause serious problems for aquatic animals
x-and can spur the growth of harmful types of bacteria. It can also lead to
x-blooms of green water and blanket weed (string algae). One way in which
x-nitrates are removed in nature is through absorption by green plants, which
x-is why it is found in fertilizers and plant foods. Plants convert the
x-nitrates into amino acids and proteins.
x-
x-
x-
x-Having plants either in the pond, or in the filter also help remove the
x-harmful ammonium. Plants prefer ammonium to Nitrate, which means they are a
x-useful way of maintaining good water quality.
x-
x-
x-
x-The most common way that nitrate is removed from ponds is through regular
x-partial water changes. Every time a portion of water is replaced with new
x-water, nitrates are diluted. In fact, you can use an increased nitrate level
x-as an indicator for when a partial water change is needed.
x-
x-
x-
x-Usually, the most critical period for an pond is the first few months after
x-it is set up. It is during this period of time that the nitrifying bacteria
x-established themselves in sufficient numbers to take care of processing the
x-ammonia produced by the inhabitants. The successful aquarist monitors the
x-establishment of the bacteria by testing for levels of ammonia and nitrite,
x-and if one wishes, for nitrate as well. The changing levels of these
x-compounds indicate the process of the growth of the populations of bacteria.
x-
x-
x-
x-First, the level of ammonia increases. This occurs because the fish are
x-producing ammonia, but there are few "Nitrosomonas" bacteria present to
x-process it. Bacteria can be introduced in greater quantity early on by
x-adding gravel from an established pond or using a packaged bacterial
x-culture. The ammonia level will peak as the bacteria population starts to
x-increase and then taper off as the bacteria are able to process more of the
x-ammonia.
x-
x-
x-
x-The level of nitrite also begins to increase as a result of the
x-"Nitrosomonas" bacteria converting the ammonia to nitrite. Eventually,
x-"Nitrobacter" bacteria begin to increase in number and consume the nitrite.
x-The nitrite levels eventually will also peak and then begin to taper off.
x-
x-
x-
x-While the nitrite level is dropping, the nitrate level is going up. This is
x-the point at which plants and algae cultures can be added to the tank,
x-because the nitrate will feed them. If plants and algae are not desired, a
x-partial water change should be made to reduce the nitrates. Complete
x-stabilization of the nitrifying bacteria may take more than three months.
x-Changing biological (fish) loads, temperature, food input and other factors
x-cause bacterial populations to fluctuate widely in their early stages of
x-growth. In addition, there is evidence that the initial increase of ammonia
x-may inhibit the "Nitrobacter" bacteria from growing, delaying the processing
x-of nitrite.
x-
x-
x-
x-Once the bacterial colonies are well established, the aquarist can use his
x-or her knowledge of the nitrogen cycle in planning an effective maintenance
x-program. For example, an adequate flow of oxygenated water through the
x-filter must be maintained if the nitrifying bacteria are to remain active.
x-Filter material should never all be cleaned at the same time and should be
x-rinsed lightly in pond water, so as not to disturb the bacterial colony on
x-the surfaces.
x-
x-
x-
x-Application of the nitrogen cycle is also important when the fish population
x-in the pond changes. Usually, a decreased fish load simply means that the
x-bacteria will reduce their rate of metabolism, although it is also possible
x-that some of the bacterial colony will die from a lack of nutrients. Any
x-time the fish load is increased, however, either from the growth of the fish
x-or the addition of new fish, the bacteria must increase their level of
x-metabolism and, more importantly, their numbers. This increase in population
x-size can take time. It is better to add only a few fish at a time so as not
x-to increase the levels of toxic nitrogen compounds in the water too rapidly.
x-also, because the bacteria are limited by the amount of surface area
x-available, it may be necessary to add more filter material and even increase
x-the flow of water to maintain the bacterial populations at sufficiently high
x-levels.
x-
x-
x-
x-Many problems resulting from pond design and maintenance techniques can be
x-solved through the application of the basic concepts of the nitrogen cycle.
x-The most successful ponds are those that come closest to imitating nature.
x-Successful fish keeping starts with the balancing the nitrogen cycle.
x-
x-
x-
x-75: What do I do with my new fish after purchase?
x-
x-Never just release (or throw) your new fish into the pond. When you come
x-home from the pet store with your fish in their plastic bag, float them for
x-15 minutes on the surface of your pond, allowing the temperature to
x-equalize. Goldfish tolerate temperature extremes very well, but sudden rapid
x-changes can be fatal. Next add some of your pond's water to the bag of
x-existing water and fish and let them sit for another five to ten minutes on
x-the pond's surface. This allows the pH to change gradually to match that in
x-the pond. Sudden changes in pH are far more detrimental to fish health than
x-pH which has gradually become too high or too low. The pH should be treated
x-to gradually return it to normal, however. Finally, open the bag and allow
x-the fish to swim out at their leisure. Make sure the bag does not collapse
x-and smother them. Give the fish enough time to decide they would like to
x-check out the pond on their own.
x-
x-
x-
x-76: How much do I feed my fish?
x-
x-Some say you shouldn't. Fish can perfectly exist on the algae growing on the
x-sides of your pond. The more of it they can eat, the less you see. There is
x-plenty of food for the fish with algae, bugs, eggs, larvae, etc. Many people
x-never feed their fish at all.
x-
x-The general consensus is to feed the fish as much as they can eat within 5
x-minutes. The best advice is usually on the label of the food. Feed only when
x-the water temperature is steadily above 55 degrees Fahrenheit. Feed one to
x-three times daily depending on the temperature (of the water, not the air!).
x-If the temperature is lower, feed less. If higher, feed more. Try not to
x-feed more than four times a day.
x-
x-
x-
x-Note: Koi will nearly always appear hungry. Do not mistake this behavior as
x-a call to eat. Overfeeding may cause illness and water quality problems. Koi
x-are omnivorous and cold blooded. They will eat anything and as the water
x-temp goes down so does their metabolism.
x-
x-
x-
x-77: Will my fish breed?
x-
x-In a healthy pond fish will breed, often prolifically. Females fill with
x-eggs as the water warms above 60 degrees. You may notice that their bodies
x-are thickened, and often lop sided. By the time the temperature hits 70
x-degrees Fahrenheit the males will be chasing females around in a rather
x-frantic race through the anacharis and roots in your pond. After an extended
x-period of chasing in the morning hours the female will shake her eggs loose
x-in the submerged grasses, even if they are floating at the top of the pond.
x-The male will be right there to fertilize them. Then almost immediately,
x-they and their pond mates will turn and eat many of them. If your underwater
x-grasses are not thick you will not have any survivors. You may add a
x-spawning mat from your pet store,. But this is not always necessary. The
x-tiny eggs will adhere to the leaves and roots of your plants. The lucky ones
x-will hatch into tiny brown "fry". They will stay hidden. You will probably
x-not see them until they are large enough to fend for themse lves.
x-
x-
x-
x-78: When will my fish start to breed?
x-
x-Fish start mating when the water warms up to about 68 or 70 degrees
x-Fahrenheit. Females begin to fill with eggs when the water temperature is
x-about 60 degrees. Their mating activities begin around eight o'clock in the
x-morning and continue until noon. The mating consists of the male chasing the
x-female frantically around the pond. There will be quite a bit of splashing
x-and shaking of water grasses. Some fish may even jump on occasion. Sometimes
x-the female is injured in the whole process. The fish will mate throughout
x-the summer months and thousands of eggs will be produced. However, the fish
x-will eat most of the eggs that come from the union.
x-
x-
x-
x-79: Will my fry survive if I leave them alone in the pond?
x-
x-Some people choose to remove their fry from the pond by transferring strands
x-of anacharis or other plants with eggs on them to an established aquarium or
x-smaller safe pond. This will often result in a larger production of fish,
x-but this is not always desired. Make sure you have "a place" for these fish
x-once they mature. You can let nature take its course by leaving the fry
x-attached to the plants. The mature fish of the pond will probably eat these
x-eggs.
x-
x-
x-
x-80: What do I do if I have too many fish?
x-
x-If you wait long enough you probably will need to reduce your population of
x-fish in the pond. Many pet stores will take them. Ask around to other pond
x-owners. Someone is always looking for new fish. Check with your local
x-watergarden or koi club and see if they will take them at their next
x-meeting.
x-
x-
x-
x-81: What about mosquito fish? (Gambusia affinis)
x-
x-Some people recommend introducing mosquito fish to eliminate mosquito
x-problems and other pests. Mosquito fish are small, minnow-sized fish that
x-eat bugs. These fish do indeed eat mosquitoes, but so do goldfish, koi, and
x-any other type of fish you introduce to your pond. The drawbacks to mosquito
x-fish are that they are brown, and therefore difficult to see in the pond.
x-You probably would rather have fish that you can see and enjoy. Mosquito
x-fish are also rapid breeders and can quickly take over a pond if their
x-population is not kept in check by larger predatory fish, such as koi, and
x-catfish.
x-
x-
x-
x-82: What about orfe fish?
x-
x-Orfe are not your typical pond fish. They eat insects and not plants, and
x-their waste is not particularly excessive. They are more common in Europe
x-than in the United States. They grow to a maximum length of 1.5 to 2.5 feet.
x-They like to swim in schools, so it is not recommended to have fewer than
x-six. They are more shy than goldfish. They are a pale orange color (golden).
x-They use more oxygen than goldfish because they are more active.
x-
x-
x-
x-83: What can salt do for stressed or ill fish?
x-
x-Stress adversely affects the slime coating on fish. Salt helps restore the
x-slime coating which makes them less susceptible to infection or parasites.
x-Some people add salt as a de-stresser when they add new fish to a pond.
x-
x-
x-
x-84: What about adding fish to an already established pond?
x-
x-You should be very conservative about adding new fish to your pond. You do
x-not want to risk adversely affecting your current fish. New fish may have
x-been exposed to an infection during transport or at the pet store. The
x-symptoms may not always be noticeable. The stress of transport will make a
x-fish more susceptible to disease. Some fish can be simple carriers of
x-disease and will never show signs of an infection. Your new fish ideally
x-should be quarantined in a "hospital" tank or a holding tank filled with
x-pond water. Some people give precautionary treatments of "Desafin" for the
x-duration of the quarantine period. If the fish does not show signs of
x-illness and appears healthy after one week, release it into the pond. Float
x-the fish in the water as you would normally to equalize the temperature.
x-Follow the directions for "What do I do with my fish after purchase?."
x-
x-
x-
x-85: One of my fish died for no reason. What's wrong?
x-
x-Put the fish in a plastic bag and get a water sample. Take both to the local
x-pet store and see if they can identify the problem. If they can not diagnose
x-a problem, the death of the fish may have just been random. Fish sometimes
x-die just like humans. You may want to do a water test to find out the pH,
x-nitrate level, etc. This may be beneficial in the diagnosis. Do not add
x-chemicals or antibiotics without being absolutely sure what the problem is.
x-Never add antibiotics to your entire pond. Only do antibiotic treatments in
x-a quarantine tank or pond. Antibiotics can have bad effects if unnecessary
x-in your water pond.
x-
x-
x-
x-86: How soon can I add fish after creating my pond?
x-
x-Do not add fish before your water has aged for a minimum of two weeks, and
x-preferably a month. This still applies if you use a de-chlorinator and
x-de-chloraminator which says that you can add fish immediately, and even if
x-people you know have done it successfully. In the early days after stocking
x-a pond chemical fluctuations are common and expected. Allow the beneficial
x-bacterial colonies time to establish. The fish need these microbes for their
x-survival. When the fish get in there and start processing food the ammonia
x-level will go up. Without the bacterial colonization and efficient plant
x-life it will kill the fish. If you absolutely cannot wait, buy a bottle of
x-bacterial starter (liquid bacteria) available from your aquarium or pond
x-supplier and pour this in. This gets that bacterial colony in shape prior to
x-adding fish life! Do not add fish to an unfiltered pond which has no plants.
x-There will be no means of neutralizing fish wastes and no places for the
x-fish to hide from predators and weather.
x-
x-
x-
x-87: What animals are potential predators to my fish?
x-
x-Herons, raccoons, cats, dogs, snakes, some frogs, turtles, even some insect
x-larvae, will snack on your fish. Potentially anything is a threat. Know your
x-threats and know your threats' weaknesses. You will be able to protect your
x-fish from predators.
x-
x-
x-
x-88: How do I deter raccoons?
x-
x-What makes Raccoons worse than any other animal in your pond is the apparent
x-joy they take in vandalizing it. Also, they are very intelligent and sneaky.
x-They have been known to disconnect the hose from a pump and drain the pond
x-to make it easier to feed on the fish. Probably they don't really know what
x-they're doing when they disconnect the hose, but they definitely know how to
x-take advantage of a situation. The only widely agreed Raccoon deterrents
x-appear to be a dog loose in your yard, or an electric 1-wire fence. Recently
x-people are finding coyote urine at nurseries, which is said to be very
x-effective. You can deter some raccoons (and other animals) by providing
x-hiding places for your fish (like painted concrete blocks, or milk crates)
x-also.
x-
x-
x-
x-89: How do I deter herons?
x-
x-Herons, when given the opportunity, will feast on your fish.
x-
x-Here's some options for deterring herons:
x-
x- 1.. An electric fence, try the Fido Fence sold at large pet superstores.
x- 2.. Fishing wire strung around the pond a few inches off the ground to
x-causing the heron frustration on where to put his feet.
x- 3.. A plastic fish, called a heron scarer, anchored on the bottom and
x-floating below the surface, the heron grabs for it and is scared when the
x-fish fights back. It also gives the resident fish time to hide.
x- 4.. Dogs who spend their daylight hours outside. Unfortunately, black
x-capped night herons will feed in the middle of the night.
x- 5.. Call your local Fish and Wildlife for other suggestions. Do not
x-attempt to kill, maim or harm a heron without official permission. In USA
x-herons are protected under the Migratory Bird Act.
x- 6.. Net the pond really well. Some herons (green heron) can wiggle under
x-nets. It is recommend that the net be suspended from it's middle like a
x-tent. The artificial heron works on the principle that they won't fish where
x-there's another heron.
x- 7.. Use a Scarecrow motion detector sprinkler. Two units used in a "90
x-degree crossfire" substantially improves overall efficiency. This is a
x-battery-operated, motion-detecting, sprinkler. It sprays any creature that
x-comes into its view with water.
x- 8.. Use a heron decoy. It is a large plastic fake herons that trick the
x-real heron into thinking your pond is occupied. One possible problem is that
x-a heron's feeding territory in times of abundant food is only a few yards
x-wide. Also, juvenile herons like to feed in groups. Finally, a male heron
x-was once spotted courting a fake heron decoy with offerings of dead goldfish
x-and frogs from the heron decoy owner's pond.
x- 9.. Use fake alligators. This will work unless you have a year-round
x-colony of herons that never flies south and does not know an alligator from
x-a dog.
x- 10.. Use a floating plastic snake.
x- 11.. Lay mouse traps around on the ground (upside down).
x- 12.. Assemble lengths of wire (or rot-proof strong string) stretched from
x-roof height on the house to a high point at the rear of the garden
x-completely over the pond. The wire should be about one meter from the
x-adjacent piece.
x- 13.. Thomas Seminazzi created a "heron-scare" to deter a heron. He wired a
x-bathroom vent fan to a motion sensor and set the sensor to TEST mode so it
x-would go off day or night. He used a bundle of colorful mylar streamers that
x-little girls put on their bike handles and attached them to the output of
x-the fan. The fan is hidden under his deck. If something trips the sensor,
x-the streamers flap and fly all over the area like an anemone reaching out
x-for prey.
x- 14.. Feed your fish sinking food and they will not be conditioned to come
x-to the surface when something blurry shows up at the edge of the pond.
x- 15.. Use steep sides in your pond (or your next pond).
x-
x-
x-90: How do I get my koi to eat from my hands?
x-
x-So you think your fish can act like your dog, eh? Well they can! Some teach
x-their fish to eat from their hands by using a sinking food held in the hand.
x-Let a few pellets drop through your fingers and then be very patient.
x-
x-You can get koi accustomed to taking food from your hands by repeatedly
x-offering them small, tasty morsels such as fish pellets or cooked shrimp or
x-brown bread.
x-
x-
x-
x-Feed them every day at the same time in the same location! Leave your hand
x-in the water as you slowly release the food, making no sudden movements.
x-
x-
x-
x-Fish do learn from each other when it comes to behaviors. Once they realize
x-it is safe by watching another they will probably do the same.
x-
x-
x-
x-When you feed them, encourage them to not be afraid by getting as low as
x-possible to the ground. Koi are sometimes afraid of the towering presence
x-that your body has at the edge looking down on them.
x-
x-
x-
x-91: Does clear water equal healthy fish?
x-
x-Contrary to popular belief, no. Of course you will want to provide a healthy
x-home for your fish. You, the pondowner will want "clear water" so you can
x-see your fish. Always remember that your fish can still be happy in that
x-unsightly green pea soup you hate so much. That green pea soup probably has
x-plenty of nutrients. A crystal clear pond may be oligotrophic, meaning all
x-of the nutrients have been stripped. If this is the case, this is bad news
x-for your fish. A little yellowish tint is probably a good thing for your
x-fish. As long as you can find a reasonable compromise, you're probably sure
x-to have healthy fish and a great view.
x-
x-
x-
x-92: How do I keep a turtle in my pond?
x-
x-You must have a large enough pond to supply the turtle with enough plants
x-and fish to keep the turtle from eating everything in sight. Water hyacinths
x-and water lettuce do well in most climates and will keep a turtle content.
x-Feeder goldfish and rosie red minnows breed in abundance and can outlive the
x-feedings of a turtle. Younger turtles eat more fish than plants. Most adult
x-turtles eat more plants than fish. An exception is the painted turtle. They
x-prefer fish to plants in their adult years.
x-
x-The turtle should have a safe place to bask so it can raise its body
x-temperature. Basking is the only heating mechanism a turtle has. Turtles, in
x-warm and sunny conditions, will spend five to six hours each day basking in
x-the hot sun. Many turtle owners float a water-logged branch or build an
x-island in the pond. It is important that the turtle can climb onto the
x-basking place.
x-
x-
x-
x-The pond should have a very efficient mechanical and biological filter.
x-
x-
x-
x-Only native turtles should be kept outside in case they are to escape. A
x-fenced yard or a small fence with buried footing around the pond will help
x-curb wandering from the area. Be advised that turtles can climb and turtles
x-can dig.
x-
x-
x-
x-In northern climates, turtles will go to the bottom of the pond in the
x-winter and become dormant (or burmate) under some sunken lily leaves for the
x-winter. They may come back to the surface is there is a warm spell. In
x-southern climates, turtles may be active year-round or have only a couple of
x-months of inactivity.
x-
x-
x-
x-Do not let the pond completely freeze. Keep a hole in the ice by using an
x-air pump with an air stone or by using a de-icer.
x-
x-
x-
x-You can adopt a turtle from a turtle rehabber in your area and many
x-veterinarians know the names of local rehabbers. Rehabbers usually have many
x-healthy native turtles ready for adoption.
x-
x-
x-
x-93: Should I add frogs to my pond?
x-
x-Frogs may appear naturally. Some people order bull frogs to eat flying
x-insects around their ponds. Be aware that bull frogs will also eat small
x-fish, and have wiped out the native amphibian population in much of the
x-western US states. Adding frogs is a matter of preference. Some frogs will
x-not stay if introduced to a pond after the tadpole stage. A frog or two will
x-probably find your pond without you inviting it over.
x-
x-
x-
x-94: My pond is full of toads. Is this a problem?
x-
x-It depends. Some people enjoy toads and others do not. They come out in the
x-evenings and start their mating calls and keep it up all night. In addition
x-to making a lot of noise, the toads will lay yards of eggs in a ribbon of
x-mucus which will end up wrapped all around your water plants. The toads may
x-tip precariously balanced plants, but usually do not change anything. You
x-can scoop the strands of eggs out, or you can wait a few days and they will
x-turn into thousands of tiny tadpoles. In a month or two these tadpoles
x-become tiny toads and take off across the lawn. You will see the ¼" long
x-toads all over your lawn if you look carefully.
x-
x-Toads and tadpoles do not seem to affect water quality, deplete oxygen or
x-adversely affect the pond's balance. They do eat large quantities of insect
x-pests such as mosquitoes. They may also eat small fish. Goldfish reportedly
x-do not eat tadpoles.
x-
x-
x-
x-95: What is the difference between frogs and toads?
x-
x-Frogs have graceful long legs and leap when they move. Tree frogs and chorus
x-frogs have sticky pads at the end of their toes. Toads are squatty and walk
x-more than leap.
x-
x-Frogs' eggs in the pond are laid in masses.
x-
x-Toads' eggs in the pond are laid in strings.
x-
x-
x-
x-96: Are frog and toad eggs okay in my pond?
x-
x-For the most part, they are okay. Fish will eat many of the frogs' eggs and
x-their tadpoles. Fish will spit out toad eggs and toad tadpoles as they have
x-a foul taste . Sometimes a fish will gulp in toad eggs and toadpoles by
x-mistake and die. If your pond is small and you have found a great number of
x-eggs and tadpoles, you must beware of ammonia spikes. So many new lifeforms
x-may contribute to an ammonia spike and overwhelm your filter.
x-
x-If you need to remove eggs (easier than tadpoles), net them up and transfer
x-to a larger natural or manmade pond. If you have kids, use a kiddy pool.
x-Fill with pond water, put in pond "slime" and rotting lily pads and a small
x-ramp for the baby frogs/toads to leave the pool. If they eat all the "slime"
x-feed them organic lettuce (lightly boiled). The kids will love to watch them
x-change from eggs to tadpoles to frog/toad. Add new pond water as needed.
x-(Use pond water as the zooplankton, tiny animals, is a part of their natural
x-diet.)
x-
x-
x-
x-97: What about bullfrogs and green frogs?
x-
x-The only frog who is a real danger to a pond is the bullfrog. Bullfrogs will
x-eat fish, and other frogs, snakes, mice, birds, etc.
x-
x-Bullfrogs are native east of the Rockies but have been spotted out west
x-also. Originally brought into the west as a food item, bullfrogs were raised
x-in farm ponds from which they quickly escaped.
x-
x-
x-
x-Bullfrogs are not welcome out west as it is feared they are eating up native
x-species and native tadpoles.
x-
x-
x-
x-Bullfrogs are large frogs. Green frogs are also large. Green frogs do not
x-eat fish and should be allowed to stay in the pond.
x-
x-
x-
x-The easiest way to tell bullfrogs from green frogs is that bullfrogs have a
x-fold of skin that goes over their eardrum. A green frog's fold of skin goes
x-right down both sides of its back.
x-
x-
x-
x-Bullfrogs can be spotlighted at night (they are most active at night) with a
x-flash light and scooped up with sport fish nets. Turn the frog over on his
x-back, he will become quiet and you can remove him from the net without
x-injuring him. Move to another pond.
x-
x-
x-


If ya dissagree with what I post then see below......
The original and one and only frugal ponder.

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Just for Derek and Carol and anyone else it may fit!