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Old 21-08-2006, 05:57 PM posted to rec.gardens.orchids
bobc bobc is offline
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First recorded activity by GardenBanter: Aug 2006
Posts: 17
Default Angreacum calceolus and Den. forbesii

Nancy G. wrote:
You may try plastic pots or insert your clay into a plastic container
for added moisture. Humidity trays may help locally. If you keep a
fan running that quickly disperses the moisture. They need air
movement, too. You could also add a bit of sphagnum to the top of the
mix.


Thank you Nancy ... I will try adding some sphagnum to the mix, and
slip the clay pots into plastic containers (don't know why I didn't
think of it myself). I could lightly pack the sphagnum into the space
between the pots ... keeping that moist would be a big help also, I
think.

Nancy G. wrote:
The comfort zone for humidity is between 40 and 60%, a little more
won't hurt with good air movement. You cna't let it accumulate ex. an
unvented bath or shower because of mold and condensation. Most houses
get too dry during the heating season, during the winter a humidifier
near your plants would rapidly be dispersed throughout the rest of the
house, especially with a forced air system. Because you keep windows
open during the cooling season, I wouldn't worry then.


I do use a small humidifier during the heating season, with a small fan
clipped to the top of a 75g fish tank. Our house is heated by hot
water with radiators. I've always thought that wasn't as drying as
forced air, but still the humidity around the plants sometimes drops to
a low of 20% especially when it's very cold out.


Nancy G. wrote:
Are your plants actually on the windowsill? If you could track down a
narrow table and keep it a couple of inches away from the wall, the
cold draft would fall to the floor and not roll across your plants and
pots. I've also used clear shower curtain in the window to help divert
the flow of cold air. A fan from the side or center of the room aimed
at the window would help push the draft away from the plants. It would
disperse the cooler air outwards along the wall.


Some of the plants are in the window and I have a shelving unit with a
little supplemental fluorescent lighting in front of the window. I've
just recently moved the two plants in question to the shelves, so we'll
see what will happen.


Nancy G. wrote:
I bought a frame to an old china buffet for $5, with the intent of
making a growing cabinet for seedlings. ........ I'll find one
at a garage sale or discarded next to a dumpster that will work for the
mods I have in mind. Then I can call it a "Wardian Case" and have a
nice display that will satisfy T's esthetics for room decor.


What a great idea!! I have an old, hand made glass tank (48"x18"x18" -
LxWxH) that I am going to (someday) make into a terrarium but the
bottom will be the 18"x18" side. I'm picturing a slice of a steep
hillside with a waterfall and a couple small pools and lots of plants
(of course). I have the tank, some rocks, and a small water pump. I
just have to figure out how to put it together and incorporate enough
light - the windows are off limits. I've already tried explaining that
many of the existing plants will go inside this terrarium - but P just
doesn't understand how cool it will look sitting in the window! G
She also isn't keen on me putting a shower curtain across the living
room window - even if I get one of the ones with cute fishes and
seahorses! I just don't see what the problem is!?! G


Nancy G. wrote
You didn't mention the orientation
of the window. South should work, East or west may work. A lot
depends on obstructions both inside and out.


The window faces ESE - more or less - the sill is 15" deep. There is a
nearby tree (Abies concolor) about thirty feet tall and growing. It's
less obstructive in winter, since the sun's angle is more in line with
the window then. The tree isn't mine so, I won't touch it ... and my
neighbor, the owner of said tree, refuses to. Ah well ... maybe it'll
fall on his truck some day! g
Thank again, Nancy, for your help.
Bob