"simy1",
I'm an escapee from the housing tracts so please abide me while I sort
out your greenhouse design.

With your 100' x 12' vinyl, you get a tunnel, that, in a perfect world,
can be no more than 3.82' tall, with a width of 7.64', right?
Practically, what is it? What grade and o.d. PVC pipe do you use for the
hoops? How many and what kind of clamps do you use, and where have you
found it most advantageous to place them? Double clamps? What's that?
Any special fold in the vinyl to seal the tunnel? What important
question didn't I ask?

So that give you an ideal maximum protected surface area of 352.79 sq.
ft. with no vinyl to lay the bricks, concrete, heavy somethin' on. What
is the reality? What measurements do you have for height, width, and
usable surface area in your green house?

How is the accessabilty? I'm about 6'2" and 250 lbs, Am I going to need
a mechanic's platform dollie to get in and out of the tunnel?

Sorry for so many questions but I already have enough chores and I'd
like to avoid re-inventing the wheel.

Thanks for your time,
- Bill

In article . com,
"simy1" wrote:

James wrote:

Huh? A PVC pipe for each hoop costs $1.60. 100 feet of 12 ft poly costs
$27. The clamps will cost you another $20, and you have to have some
bricks to hold down the poly on windy days (concrete chunks will do as
well). If treated well, the poly lasts three years and the clamps and
hoops last forever. You are looking at $15 per winter harvest.

Works if you don't live in a windy area. It's easier to hold down the
poly than to keep it from tearing. Hoop tunnels 2' or 3' may work
better in windy areas.


I live in a fairly windy area. It took me a couple winters to get the
tunnels down pat. You need clamps, double clamps at the end of the
tunnels, and a smooth tunnel with some poly laying on the path, wieghed
down by bricks, so that no air can get inside. I never had a blowout
when there is deep snow, it seals the tunnels perfectly.