In article ,
Abraham Evangelista wrote:
I'm still sorting through the wealth of information available on his
site. Subscribed when I picked up my ferts from Greg Watson. I
wonder, does this rule apply to plants that are "supposed" to be red?
I have some bronze and red Crypt. wendetti, and some "Red Hygro" that
turns a nice deep red where it gets light at the top of the tank.
Sorta. Given enough N I have some crypts that are just plain green. I
can tell when the N is low because they start to get more bonze color.
Some C. blassi I got were lovely and red. When I put them in a tank
that was well fertilized they went all green. Or more green anyway.
So, no, plants that aren't natrually just green will not go green in
the presense of sufficient N but they will tend more towards that.
The growth below was nice and red too, but now it's nice and back, as
in red algae, owing to a lack of light. The new shoots coming out
from the bottom of the stand are coming out bright green, so I wonder
if it's not a question of light.
Sure, leaves close to a stong light source will tend to be more red. Not
sure why this is, and even in the presense of apparanlty sifficient N.
Tom? You reading this?
Am I on the right track here?
Yabbut 5ppm N is kinda low. I aim for somwhere in the neighborhood of 15-30.
The algae is caused by excessive ammonia. Try getting all the crud out and doing
two big (80%) water changes then fertiize properlu.
I'm not sure it's economical to bother replacing the tank. Having a
piece of glass cut for the bottom is gonna cost me for the
glasscutter's labor, and for the glass. A replacement 10 gallon is
only $10 USD here, so it might end up cheaper for me to just buy
another tank, and save this one for sides/spares. Maybe I can use it
as a terrarium.
There's lots of places to get cheap/free glass. Thrift shops, junkyards,
craigslist.org.
Jobes fert sticks
Ack! Also known as "instant algae". I wouldn't use these.
Again, the bit I've got in the hex is showing growth.
Excellent.
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