Weed-Be-Gone is safe for grass, according to the Ortho instructions,
except for certain grasses like St. Augustine, for example. Ortho has
a different product for St. Augustine grass weeds. Quoting from Ortho:
"Do not use on Floratam, a variety of St. Augustinegrass common in
Florida. Do not spray on Carpetgrass, Dichondra or desirable clovers."

I've seen one complaint on the web of a tree that was half-killed by
something coincidentally shortly after spraying the stuff on weeds
around the tree. This may be merely a coincidence.

In all cases, it's important to read the label. Of course, the
instructions are usually in very fine print and sometimes we're hasty
in not reading the instructions very carefully. There's a large image
of the instructions on a Roundup container published on the weedtwister
website, so that people can read the details and take their time. No
need to rush into buying this or any product or tool. Our timing is
rather irrelevant as far as the world of weeds is concerned.

----
Raycruzer
weeder

tenplay wrote:
raycruzer wrote:
But, keep in mind that herbicides and flamers do not actually remove
weeds. Even if they successfully kill the weeds, the weeds are still
there. This means that they take space in lawns, for example, where
you need good grass to grow.


Nonsense. When the weed is dead it is gone, not producing any more
seeds nor sending out any runners. The weed biomass will be there
until it decays and becomes part of the soil structure (a good use for
a dead weed).

I agree that they are usually dead and harmless, IF DEAD. The
glyphosate is active IN THE PLANT for several days, even though the
chemicals decompose IN THE SOIL. The chemicals don't decompose in the
plant, because if they did, they wouldn't be effective. Most people
don't kill a weed just to stop it from growing. They really want it
GONE!. Once they think it's dead, they remove it! This is double
effort and cost. IF you're going to remove it anyway, in most cases,
it's quicker and easier to remove it right away with a mechanical
approach, either by hand or by using a tool. If you're not going to
remove it but you're content to let it stay in your lawn or garden,
even though it causes a toxic hazard for at least a few days, then, you
may have at least solved the problem of stopping the weed from further
growth.


That's why it's better to use a tool that actually removes weeds, like
the "Herbicide Helper" Weed Twister. This tool will twist out
crabgrass dead or alive. The sooner the crabgrass is gone, the sooner
your good grass can take its place.

More nonsense. Removing part of a weed does not get rid of it as part
of its root structure is still in the soil and will promptly develop
into a new weed plant.

Dead crabgrass has already produced seeds which will sprout into new
crabgrass unless treated with a pre-emergent herbicide, organic or
other. The "twister" removes only the old crabgrass plant which I can
do easily with my bare hands if so inclined.

The "twister", in this case the twister with the coiled tines,
effectively removes more parts of a grass like crabgrass than any other
tool known to man. It pulls out large chuncks of networked stems,
roots and rhizomes by the twisting motion. Although some parts of the
stems may remain, the twister allows you to "fish" for remaining
strands and stems fairly efficiently. If you use your hands, you will
work much harder and accomplish much less in the same amount of time.
If you use a hoe, for example, you will chop up pieces of stems, and
make the job of finding them even harder!

Spraying postemergent herbicides on crabgrass or bermudagrass can only
be done in spots where the good grass or plants are safely separated
from the bad plants. When you reach the margins where they
intermingle, you cannot use the herbicide without also killing your
preferred grasses or plants. Here you must use your fingers or a tool
of your choice.


How about Weed-BeGone, which claims to kill weeds without harming the
grass around the weed? Wouldn't that do the job?