Carl brings up a good point too. Tomatoes rotting on the bottom is
either a moisture or calcium issue. The spotty leaves - fungus.

I would hold on the tomatoes for at least two seasons.

Good luck - Merry Christmas

Craig
http://www.growersinfo.com



Richard Ellis wrote:
In article om,
"Growers Information" wrote:

I agree with the soil test. They are cheep, and will provide you with
a lot of information that you can use as a baseline.

Nature does not "rest" the soil, so while "resting" the soil does
not make much sense to me, crop rotation is a good idea, especially
with Tomatoes and peppers. Put green beans in their place, or other
legumes (peas are also good). Legumes will provide a natural source of
nitrogen - especially if you till them back into the soil. Tomato,
corn and squash are all heavy feeders.

Do not compost tomato plants, or till them back into your soil. Fungal
disease can transfer from year to year, and may infect your compost
pile too.

Keep composting - If you compost as much as you say you do, you should
not need "Miracle Grow" or other additives. If you absolutely feel the
need to fertilize - use a slow release like blood meal or fish
emulsion.

Good Luck

Craig Cooper
http://www.growersinfo.com


Thank you again for your responses.

I have been composting all veggie garden plants for years, hence there's
a good chance my tomatoes have been suffering from the same fungi year
after year (some sort of dark fungus which made the leaves dry up and
drop off), plus the darkening and ultimate rotting of the bottoms of the
tomatoes.

How long will the leftover fungi persist once I've stopped composting
the last crops of tomato plants? Don't those spores last a very long
time?

Beans it will be (as my grand daughter says, "Cool Beans!"). (heh).

happy holidays!
de

--
Everybody is right.
-Rochefoucault