Warren wrote:

Come On In! wrote:

Warren, all your points are well-taken but I am an average Schmoe who
has little or no time to fuss over my lawn but I don't want to be
totally negligent either so I follow the 4-step program. Thanks for
your help though.

All the more reason *not* to dump chemicals on your lawn. As the years
go on, your lawn will become less and less healthy, and require more and
more work, and will still continue to look worse and worse.

If you're looking for a quick fix, rip out as much of the lawn as you
can, and replace it with appropriate low-maintenance perennials. After
the initial conversion, it's possible to get it down to a weekend of
work in the spring, and another weekend in the fall. Snake some soaker
hoses, connect a timer, and you've cut your work even further.

(Okay, I exaggerate a bit. The first few years while you wait for things
to fill in, you may need to do a little weeding, but weeds growing in
mulch come out a lot easier than those in the lawn. Or you could over
plant in the beginning, and just thin-out some plants as years go by.)

Lawns are a lot of work. And they become more and more work if they
become dependant on some chemical program. If you're really short on
time, don't be tempted by the chemical route. Take a little bit of time
this year to build a healthy lawn that can sustain itself well.


I have to second Warren's comments. There is no need to adopt any
manufacturer's "4 step program" - lawns simply don't need all that fussing
to look good and once you start it, you can't stop. Lawns do indeed become
chemically dependent.

There is a very simple and considerably less expensive and time-consuming
process you should follow:

1) Fertilize your lawn only twice a year (in mid-spring and early fall) with
an organic lawn fertilizer. Even once a year will suffice if you opt for the
fall application. Over fertilizing reduces the populations of essential soil
microroganisms that provide natural access to the nutrients lawns need. It
promotes lush but weak growth which is vulnerable to diseases and and unable
to withstand heat and drought

2) Spot weed as needed. Do not apply weed 'n feed mixtures - they are
expensive and ineffective and treat areas where no weeds exist. They
contribute heavily to groundwater pollution and are harmful to kids and
animals. If annual weeds are a problem, use corn gluten meal as a
pre-emergent. It is also a pretty decent fertilizer, too.

3). Mow high and often. You should not be removing any more than 1/3 of the
total lawn length and ideally lawns should not be shorter than two inches.
For even better results, use a mulching mower to recycle the grass clippings
and further reduce the need for fertilizing.

4) Water deeply and infrequently. Those 10-15 minute daily cycles of the
irrigation system are a waste of time and a valuable and irreplaceable
resource. Much better to water once a week for 45 minutes - the water will
percolate deep enough to encourage deep root growth and the lawn will
eventually need less water and be more drought tolerant.

I have not fertilized my lawn since I purchased a mulching mower about 10
years ago. It is not pristine - there are a few weeds here and there, but
they are easily removed by hand - and a pristine lawn is unnatural anyway.
It is a fallacy promoted by fertilizer manufacturers. My lawn is thick and
healthy and requires absolutely no chemical intervention. It doesn't even
have much moss, which in the PNW is remarkable. I don't water in summer
other than what overfall it may get from my other plantings - I allow it to
go dormant (as is the nature of cool season grasses - your area may be
different) and it revives wonderfully as soon as the fall rains appear.

Other than a weekly mowing in season, my lawn requires NO OTHER WORK. Now
isn't that a better approach?? Less time involved and far less money and no
additional contribution to environmental pollution. Try it - it works!

pam - gardengal