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Old 06-02-2007, 01:00 PM posted to alt.home.lawn.garden
[email protected] trader4@optonline.net is offline
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First recorded activity by GardenBanter: Jul 2006
Posts: 431
Default I need new lawn help.

On Feb 5, 3:47 pm, "nightrider.36" wrote:
Hello everyone!

I've never planted a lawn before and I'm getting overwhelmed at the
information at Home Depot's books and online. I have questions that I
need answered before I get started. I don't have a big budget, I
don't have time, I don't want to do it and I want to make my wife
happy so please help me! I need to lay this out and maybe seed it in
a weekend--maybe two--SOON!

I have to install two 15' x 15' raised lawn beds in my front yard.
Because I don't want to deal with weeds or grading, I'm just going to
install the boxes avove the ground, thrown some plastic on the base
and level the borders and the soil. them--there, instant level grade!


I don't see how boxes installed above ground has anything to do with
avoiding weeds. And it would ssem to have a minimal effect on grading
issues. I would think the main reason to do this is aesthetic, and I
don't recall seeing it done with just grass. Usually it's used for
flower beds, shrubs, etc. Also, with grass, if it has raised edges,
it's going to be more difficult to mow.





They'll be bordered by landscaping timbers or RR ties. Like this...

+---------------+ +------------------+
| | rocks | |
| grass | | more | :-) --happy wife!!
| | | grass
| _o,
+---------------+ +------------------+ ....husband in the
desert --- ==( ((O7O
even more rocks...retaining wall --
____________________________
| house |

My questions are...

1. I have soil in my backyard that I can use but it has weed seeds
all over it. How do I treat it so that I don't get the weeds? Is there
some kind of super poison?? My wife made the suggestion to let the
weeds grow and then pick them out--I think there's a better way but
what?



If there is more than seeds, like existing grass, weeds, etc, then I
would apply Roundup/glyphosate to the plants that are there a week or
two before moving the soil. That will kill any growing vegetation and
prevent any of it surviving the move. Most of the seeds will wind
up buried to deep to survive and you can just use an appropriate
broadleaf weedkiller on anything that does come up after the new grass
is well established.



2. can I use potting soil? I know it's a lot but at least it would be
weed free? Is there another type of lawn soil cheaper than potting
soil?


You can have a small load of screened topsoil delivered. It won't be
100% weed free, but usually pretty close and what it's used all the
time.



3. I'm in Southern Ca. what grass seeds do you recommend?


Not familiar with that area.

4. Despite my limited level or patience and budget, I can't use sod--
the cost is prohibitive to my interests. Is what I want to do
realistic?


Establishing a new lawn is realistic. Given the small size
(450sqft), I would reconsider using sod though. It's quick and
easy. If you don't use sod, I would buy hydraulic mulch, which is
available in bags at agri/landscape supply houses that deal with the
trade. It's ground up cellulose that you sprinkle lightly over the
area after seeding. It hold moisture, meaning you can water less, get
a better germination rate, etc and is preferable to straw, which can
contain weeds. It's the same stuff used on lawns that are hydro-
seeded. Not essential, but for a job like this, it's a plus. Use a
the best quality grass seed you can find and apply a starter
fertilizer.

You need to keep the soil constantly wet to damp for the first several
weeks, don't let it dry out. That means watering several times a
day, more if it's hot. Then, as the grass establishes, back off
slowly till you water only couple times a week, 1/2" or so at a time.



Please help! ( it just needs to be done)

...help?

thanks.

Alex