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Old 18-02-2007, 06:51 PM posted to rec.ponds
~ jan ~ jan is offline
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First recorded activity by GardenBanter: Feb 2007
Posts: 118
Default Interesting findings concerning strata temps (thermoclines) in a pond

On Sun, 18 Feb 2007 11:32:55 -0600, Tristan
wrote:

A few years back I had posted about the vast differences in
temperatures in my 1+ acre pond, which is approx 21/22 feet deep.

Even with a good fountian putting out 6,000 + GPH of water and pulling
the water from 6 feet under the surface, it really did not effect the
water below that level to any degree......Granted water that is deep
has little to no oxygen level so its irrevalent in regards to holding
fish, but it still plays an important part of contributingto turbid /
alge laden waters.

Our outside temps are in the upper 30's to lower 40's for the most
part. My ponds water temp is as follows....

surface to 4 feet---53 deg
7 feet to 4 feet-----54 deg
15 feet to 7 feet---57 deg
bottom to 15 feet--63 deg.

Now in the new pond which is approx 13-15 feet deep with no fountain
but using aeration from submerged aeration pads on the ponds bottom
the temps a

surface to 4 feet 56 deg
7 feet to 4 foot...56 deg
10 feet to 7 feet--58 deg
bottom to 10 feet....58 deg
The water with aeratin is much more uniform, so there fore its being
circulated a lot better. I wuld imagine fish are better abole to
utilize water that is deeper inthis aerated pond as compared to the
other pond with a fountain a its only source of aeration. The aerated
pond has water temps without as much variation, so evidently there is
more of a mix or turnover of the water with aeration as compared to a
fountain.

In summer these numbers reverse with the warmer water on top, so its
safe to say thje pond with submerged aeration will remain cooler even
though its shallower, and provide much more useable water depth for
the fish to use.


I hope you do report back on this come summer, very interesting what you've
gotten so far in winter. I guess this is why koi grow big fast down south.
:-)

The submerged aeration cost a bait more to buy, but its easy to
install and clean.......I do not think its any mor expensive to
operate as both draw amperage that is very close. Over time, however
the submerged aeration is more than likely to produce much morew
satisfactory results and better water quality than a fountain will.
Now if yu have to buy a factory made fountain then your in the same
ballpark price wise with either device. Unfortunately most folks go
with a fountain over submerged aeration purely for
aesthetics.......certainly nothing nice about apond with bubbles
riseing up as compared to a illuminated fountain shooting water 30
feet into the air....but that lowly aerator is so much more
beneficial overall even if no fish is kept. With an aerator you can
always add a cheaper lesser output fountain for your viewing pleasure
if you just have to have a fountain.

Up unti lI checked the numebers with the fountain / vrs / aerator, I
was going to but one of those propeller aerators, which also pull up
water form deeper sections, but they are limited to how deep they can
pull from so I am glad I ran some numbers on temps for now, and more
than likely will just add more submerged mats to the other ponds and
forego any additional fountain or propeller devices. HOpefully last
year wa smy last at battling any algae blooms, as my water was great.
I may even be able to reduce my potassium Permangante treatments to
one dose instead of the customary two per year. No reason the info I
gained here in regards to aeration / vers fountains etc would not
apply to a liner type pond. Sure would like to hear others opinions on
it though before I make any definate conclusions.

Another thing I may fool with this year is taking actual water samples
and seeing exactly what propponents rise and when they rise...spring,
summer fall , etc.....Ponds are much to large to adjust parameters,
but I can reduce nitrates and phosphorus with Potassium Permanganate.
Also oging to be interesting comparing two older established ponds
with a new pond in regards to water parameters. All are in same soil,
filled from same sources, same exposure to sun......only differences
is depth and age.


When you do your pp treatments, what ppm do you shoot for? I heard 2 ppm is
good for removing organics. ~ jan